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#1
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Anyone Replaced Timing Belt Themselves
I'm thinking of changing my own Timing Belt, so how hard is it ? Usually OHC's can be a real pain, not to mention getting off the harmonic balancer. I've seen those main bolts turn both ways, so any advice on which way to loosen is helpful ?
I couldn't get the harmonic balancer off my Vette (years ago) so it went to dealer. It was REALLY on there... anyone actually done it ? How long ? |
#2
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I did it myself. Like anything, you just need to take your time and be very careful if you don't have any experience doing similar repairs.
Get a factory shop manual. It won't cost as much as the labor involved in having the dealer replace the timing belt, and it ppays for itself the first time you crack the cover. As for time, if you're really careful, it can take you a full day. If you're doing other stuff at the same time, plan a weekend. I'm being conservative, but I don't like to rush stuff.
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2005 RX-8 Grand Touring 2005 Outback 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 wagon END OF LINE |
#3
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it is really one of the easiest belts i have ever changed. Just time consuming. I did mine in 2-3 hrs along with replacing cam and crank seals(you should think about doing them at the same time as the belt) Just take your time and definately get a manual. Not for the faint at heart cuz you can break stuff u don't wanna. Also, you will need a vice around for the hydroulic tensioner.
Tom P.S. the crank bolt is normal threads, righty tighty lefty loosey. Try using more of a burst of power rather than constant pressure to get it off, usually helps. |
#4
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My tips from past experience:
Remove the radiator to give yourself more clearance to the front of the engine. Before you remove the old timing belt, mark the alignment points with white-out or some bright paint. Change the oil pump, water pump, front seal and cam seals while you are in there. Take your time, don't plan on finishing it in one day. Don't work too long on it without a break, your mind gets cloudy and your hands get sloppy. Don't force any hoses or plastic parts. Slow down, evaluate how they come apart and remove them gently. Use a set of factory manuals. Don't try a Chilton or universal book, it will not be exact. Its not a tough job, just requires concentration and patience. Doug
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1992 LS Touring (6/91) - Currently undergoing a five speed swap Black over Claret with spoiler; 235,000 miles; Mods: 2002 Legacy 5 speed, ACT Pressure Plate, Excedy Clutch, Short Throw Shifter, Aussie Powerchip 1992 LS Touring (6/91) Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler 1994 LSi (4/93) Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction. 1969 Mustang GT Convertible 1970 Mustang Convertible 2000 Ford Excursion Sola lingua bona est lingua mortua. My Locker |
#5
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I have, and I recommend a look at this site to give you a written & pictorial flavor (to see if you're up to it).
http://www.ryanmacdonald.com/car/howto/ Of course the search button will yield a bunch of help. For example, some have used a breaker bar against the fender (padded of course), then tapped the starter to break loose the crank bolt. I used an assistant to wedge the flex plate while I used a breaker bar. Then again I assume some used the proper tools |
#6
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Timing belt replacement
I just got done doing mine and I have to say their is a long list of things that have to be done. First drain the radiator and remove the fans and then the radiator, your need the space plus it runs $350 for a new radiator. Then its time to take off both PS/Alt. belt and the AC belt, and the tension adjusters, and remove the brackets. To break loose the pulley bolt I used the starter with a 3 foot jack handle on a 1/2" drive, then remove the pulley. That done you move on to the timing belt cover, taking off both cam covers and then the center piece; you'll see how deep you are in it. The tension adjuster is the bear of the whole job, most will say that you need a vise but it can be done with a 7 or 8 inch C-clamp and a small allen wrench to hold it in place after its compressed. The manual would be a great help.
From someone that has done it, I wish you the best of luck.
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_______________ 92svxman & Freida the co-pilot. First 92 Claret(flat color,IMHO) Two 92 Teal(much nicer color) 5 Speed pending, from 93 Legacy Turbo 4.11 Tranny/rear diff. May go for 3.90 Claret 145K Underdrive Pulley from Newbies2005 New timing belt new radiator new water pump new timing belt cover New headlights and harness Replaced exhaust (with stock) Life on the road who could ask for more |
#7
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Wow, thanks for the advice !
I'll probably grab a manual regardless and see if its still something I wish to deal with. The car has 98k, so I'm guessing its due ? Is it 100k miles ??? |
#8
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Re: Timing belt replacement
Quote:
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2005 RX-8 Grand Touring 2005 Outback 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 wagon END OF LINE |
#9
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And it's not like they get a different belt. 100k is also the service interval for the plugs. I recommend sticking with the OEM NGKs. After 133k, my original plugs were all still gapped to spec and within a couple thousandths of eachother.
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2005 RX-8 Grand Touring 2005 Outback 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 wagon END OF LINE |
#10
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I have changed mine a few times now. Lots of good threads and info on this subject.
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May your transmission live forever. SuperbVehicleXtraordinary Proud sponsor of a 1992 SVX. |
#11
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Quote:
These are such awesome engines.
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1992 LS Touring (6/91) - Currently undergoing a five speed swap Black over Claret with spoiler; 235,000 miles; Mods: 2002 Legacy 5 speed, ACT Pressure Plate, Excedy Clutch, Short Throw Shifter, Aussie Powerchip 1992 LS Touring (6/91) Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler 1994 LSi (4/93) Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction. 1969 Mustang GT Convertible 1970 Mustang Convertible 2000 Ford Excursion Sola lingua bona est lingua mortua. My Locker |
#12
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I also agree that the belt tensioner is the trickiest part. We used a drill bit on mine but it was bending enough to make it difficult to remove. We used a shop press to compress it. After releasing the pressure on it the tensioner was strong enough to break one of the holes that you stick the pin through!!
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#13
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I found stainless steel tig welding wire was the easiest to use. Starpen one end to a point and slide it in. aslo, it can be bent with enough pressure to for a hook so it can be pulled out by hand. I also broke one of the holes when i did it on my red car.
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#14
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Ditto what everyone else said - easy to change. Take the extra time to remove the radiator - it makes it much easier.
I used an svx, gravity, and a floor jack to compress the tensioner - and an allen wrench to hold it in place. I don't recommend it - but it worked.
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Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P. |
#15
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Quote:
Tonight on Redneck Wrenchin', we all gonna fix us a furrin' car wit funny windows! <insert toothless smiley here> Todd
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Down to none |
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