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  #1  
Old 09-05-2003, 12:09 PM
92-svx-LS-i
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idle issue, stalling

I have a 92 lsi with 84k. I've only had it for about a month and love it when it drives right, however, for the last couple weeks my car has been stalling when I'm at a stop or the engine is at idle. It is getting progressively worse, now when the engine is warm i stall eveytime i come to a stop. No check engine lights have ever come on and the car always starts back up. Some of the other symptoms is a very, very rough idle. The tach needle jumps from 1rpm to almost zero, then it jumps back up to 1 rpm (this is when it doesn't stall). I have also noticed a lot of hesitation on throttle response. Also when the engine is cold, it idles at almost 1, and then as it warms up it starts flucuating. I took it to the dealership but all they did was charge me 70$, and tell me that they don't , and won't know what's wrong until a check engine light comes on. The car has had mobile 1 it's whole life, and the 60k tune up was done one time. The previous owner said he got the plugs replaced, but i don't know if that has anything to do about it. I've read a lot of forums but no one see's to be having the same problem i am. Any help in narrowing down what is going on would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,

also how much is a window regulator for the svx, my passenger side window doesn't work
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Old 09-05-2003, 12:50 PM
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Re: idle issue, stalling

Quote:
Originally posted by 92-svx-LS-i
I have a 92 lsi with 84k. I've only had it for about a month and love it when it drives right, however, for the last couple weeks my car has been stalling when I'm at a stop or the engine is at idle. It is getting progressively worse, now when the engine is warm i stall eveytime i come to a stop. No check engine lights have ever come on and the car always starts back up. Some of the other symptoms is a very, very rough idle. The tach needle jumps from 1rpm to almost zero, then it jumps back up to 1 rpm (this is when it doesn't stall). I have also noticed a lot of hesitation on throttle response. Also when the engine is cold, it idles at almost 1, and then as it warms up it starts flucuating. I took it to the dealership but all they did was charge me 70$, and tell me that they don't , and won't know what's wrong until a check engine light comes on. The car has had mobile 1 it's whole life, and the 60k tune up was done one time. The previous owner said he got the plugs replaced, but i don't know if that has anything to do about it. I've read a lot of forums but no one see's to be having the same problem i am. Any help in narrowing down what is going on would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,

also how much is a window regulator for the svx, my passenger side window doesn't work
Seems like people are losing MAF Sensors right and left. That sounds like what your symptoms are. That would be my first guess. You don't wanna know my second. Run the self diagnostic (instructions in the "How To" personal folder) and see if you get any "stored codes." That's what the dealership wants to charge you 70 bucks for -- you do it for free and spend the (less than) 70 bucks on a used MAF Sensor.

Your window is probably the victim of the "broken clip" syndrome (does the motor sound like it's working). The part number can probably be found with a "search." I'm sorry I can't come up with it right now (John Hoffman, do you know it by heart? ).

And, one more thing (don't mean to be picky, but I am ). There's no such thing as a '92 LS-i. Fully loaded 92's and 93's were designated LS-L.

Glad to have you on board!
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  #3  
Old 09-05-2003, 01:14 PM
92-svx-LS-i
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thanks for the info, there isn't any stored codes on my ecu. Were is the maf sensor located and how much is it to replace, also, ive been reading about cleaning the throttle body, or vacum tube problems, could any of these sound like the culprut or does it sound like it's going to be the maf sensor. One more dumb question is there a difference between the maf and the maf sensor, sorry, realtively car retarded. Just curious what is your second guess that i don't want to hear about

thanks again for the help
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Old 09-05-2003, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 92-svx-LS-i
thanks for the info, there isn't any stored codes on my ecu. Were is the maf sensor located and how much is it to replace, also, ive been reading about cleaning the throttle body, or vacum tube problems, could any of these sound like the culprut or does it sound like it's going to be the maf sensor. One more dumb question is there a difference between the maf and the maf sensor, sorry, realtively car retarded. Just curious what is your second guess that i don't want to hear about

thanks again for the help

No problem. I've said it often, "there are no dumb questions."

MAF is short for MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow Sensor). It is the little black box attached to the air filter housing (kinda looks like a miniature Pizza Hut) and the intake tube. You'll have to remove the tube (loosen the large hose clamp and pull it off), then, remove the air filter housing by unsnapping the four clips. The MAF Sensor comes off with the housing. Remove the four bolts that hold the MAF Sensor to the housing and re-bolt the replacement. It's an easy fix. Use MAF Sensors run from 50 to 75 bucks. New will run 180 - 250.

Yes, there could be some air leaks (vaccuum or in the intake hose). One fellow had a car that ran fine until it warmed up, then, it would die. He'd let it cool, and it'd start and run fine . . . for a while -- until it wamred up, then, it'd die again. Turned out to be a crack in the intake hose (between the MAF Sensor and the TB). The car would warm up, the hose would expand, gaping teh crack open. The car would cool off, the crack would seal and all was okay, until the heat expanded it again. Crazy stuff.

Always start with the cheap first. Check the hoses, clamps, etc to the intake and make sure they're hooked up and not cracked. The next would be the MAF Sensor. From there I'd begin to suspect plugs, maybe a cracked spark plug boot and then, possibly (and we don't wanna go here) a coil pack.

Keep us informed.
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  #5  
Old 09-05-2003, 02:35 PM
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It could also be the hose to the idle air by-pass control valve. If that is off the engine will stall.
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  #6  
Old 09-05-2003, 04:05 PM
92-svx-LS-i
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Thanks for all the info, were is a good site online to buy a maf, and should i take it back to the dealership to see if they can narrow it down to the maf? I checked all the hoses and clamps and everything seems to be in order, the only thing i noticed was that where the wires go to the maf, that little clip that protects the wires wasn;t on all the way, is there any way that the wires could have come loose?

also were is the idle air by-pass control valve located?
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Old 09-05-2003, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 92-svx-LS-i
Thanks for all the info, were is a good site online to buy a maf, and should i take it back to the dealership to see if they can narrow it down to the maf? I checked all the hoses and clamps and everything seems to be in order, the only thing i noticed was that where the wires go to the maf, that little clip that protects the wires wasn;t on all the way, is there any way that the wires could have come loos?
Yes. Check the condition of the wires into the connector. Check to see if they're frayed or loose. If they're tight, unplug the connecor and spray some WD-40 both into the male and female postions of the plug. Perhaps the connectors are slightly corroded. Just another guess.

If you want a new MAF, PM Kervinsubaru, right here on this site. He's the moderator here and will give you a decent price (as good a price as he can without getting yelled at ).

Otherwise, there are a few people here who will help you find one, if they don't have a spare themselves.

The dealership, apparently, is not being cooperative, huh?
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  #8  
Old 09-06-2003, 02:33 PM
92-svx-LS-i
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The last time my car stalled all of the lights on the dash came on like normal, except for the check engine light, it lit up a few seconds after the rest of the lights came on, does this mean i have a code stored in my ecu? Also, it's now light in day in difference from when my car is cold, to warm. Cold it seems to rev very high, 1-1.5, but once it gets warm it stalls almost every time i let off the throttle. Does this sound more like the maf, or a crack in a hose somewhere that only leaks once the engine warms up? Finally, I went to subaruparts.com and maf was $304, suffice to say i need to find a cheaper one
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Old 09-07-2003, 11:58 AM
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To me it sounds like the problem I had with Shane (007)s car. It would start up and idle at like 1,000 to 1,500 rpms untill it warmed it up then it would fluctuate from like 250 to 1,000 rpms. but it would also set the check engine lite as soon as it was warmed up. It gave a code and turned out to be a bad IAC or (air by pass valve). Just my expiriance with that kind of problem, it may not be the MAF.
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Old 09-07-2003, 10:25 PM
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Suggestion -
Do a search on "MAF" and you should find a few threads on how to check the MAF yourself (wiggle the connector, push down on the top of it while the engine is running, etc.). From the sounds of things, I'd agree with Subafreak that it very well could be something other than your MAF.
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Old 09-08-2003, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Subafreak
To me it sounds like the problem I had with Shane (007)s car. It would start up and idle at like 1,000 to 1,500 rpms untill it warmed it up then it would fluctuate from like 250 to 1,000 rpms. but it would also set the check engine lite as soon as it was warmed up. It gave a code and turned out to be a bad IAC or (air by pass valve). Just my expiriance with that kind of problem, it may not be the MAF.
Yes, I tend to think it could be the Idle Air Control valve. Either stuck or gooed up.
Runs ok when cold because the cold start air valve is open then. As it warms up the cold start valve closes and the IAC takes over to set the idle speed. If it is not working, it stalls.

Harvey.
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Old 09-09-2003, 11:15 PM
92-svx-LS-i
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could it still be the IAC even though the check engine light doesn't come on? and I'm still looking for a MAF thats cheaper than the subaruparts.com price of $304. also if it is the iac do i need to buy a new one, or just clean it? any help is greatly appreciated
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Old 09-10-2003, 04:09 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by 92-svx-LS-i
could it still be the IAC even though the check engine light doesn't come on? and I'm still looking for a MAF thats cheaper than the subaruparts.com price of $304. also if it is the iac do i need to buy a new one, or just clean it? any help is greatly appreciated
Yes it still can be the IAC, as it can be working electrical but not mechanically because the armature is stuck.
The IAC is located under the throttle body cover on the right side of it. A small round cylinder with small hoses going to it. pull hoses and spray carb cleaner into it, to free it.
When it is free it still will not work properly for a while till the ECU sets it.

Harvey.
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Old 11-11-2004, 03:44 PM
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All I see is TPS, no IAC

OK,
I've removed the plastic cover. On the right hand side, with the electrical wires is the TPS.

Were is this IAC ?

Tried to remove the plastic intake from the airbox, and shoot Carb cleaner, but the car won't run. Some reason, you can take that off (yes, I had the MAF still connected electronically) ?
I didn't want to shoot Carb Cleaner into the outside of the MAF, not sure it'd like that !

Trying to fix my stalling, but probably need Fuel Injeciton Cleaning when I get my Timing Belt done (100k).
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Old 11-11-2004, 04:17 PM
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The IAC is on the bottom of the throttle body.

I may be wrong but is it #2 here:
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