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  #16  
Old 09-02-2003, 01:09 PM
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that sounds like what my car does

2rd to 3nd slip and most of the time right after I take a turn.

Its probly not related.

the small car shift kit helps but did not fix it on my car.

dealer said to change the screen inside of the trany.

So i'm going to try it as sone as I get the screen from Kerven Subaru.
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  #17  
Old 09-02-2003, 01:22 PM
ww111
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I also have the external filter on order. I'll do them both at the same time.

And winter's here in a week or so.

Collins
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  #18  
Old 09-02-2003, 02:14 PM
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I seem to recall that several people have said that cleaning/replacing the Throttle Position Sensor can put an end to shift flares. Apparently, when it gets dirty, the tranny can think that the motor is at idle when its not, and it tries to shift as if the car where at/near idle. Supposedly, its pretty easy to clean.
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  #19  
Old 09-02-2003, 02:23 PM
ww111
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Brand new 5 days ago... set to 0.500 VDC Thanks. Of course if you suggested chicken blood at this point I'd be cruising the barnyards

Collins
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  #20  
Old 09-02-2003, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by ww111
Brand new 5 days ago... set to 0.500 VDC Thanks. Of course if you suggested chicken blood at this point I'd be cruising the barnyards

Collins
Funny that you should mention chicken blood... jk. :-) Just for my own curiosity, is the shift flare behavior after installing the new TPC the same as before you replaced it?
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  #21  
Old 09-02-2003, 09:41 PM
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Fixing The TPS

Quote:
Originally posted by ww111
Brand new 5 days ago... set to 0.500 VDC Thanks. Of course if you suggested chicken blood at this point I'd be cruising the barnyards

Collins
Greetings Collins and also Rob, as I have brought him into this query.

You guys should have on hand TPS units which you have replaced and which you could experiment with. When I had mine out I was short of time and needed the car so did no more than wash it out.

It appeared to me that it would come to pieces if the return spring is slipped out. It would be necessary to check the number of turns wound on the spindle before doing so in order to put it back as was. However the spring pressure would not be that critical.

Inside there will be a resistance element which can be dirty, or worse worn. Also a spring loaded contact, fixed to the spindle, will travel around the resistance. If spring tension is weak this will cause poor contact and a problem. However it should be possible to restore lost pressure with a little careful bending.

You should also check for reliable contact/connection between the moving wiper and the associated outgoing terminal.

If you can find the time to check on what I have described and report back you will be doing a service to members as a " how to fix the TPS " could save money and who knows the supply of spares may become exhausted. You guys have the knowledge to work out how the thing works and it will all be obvious to you when you examine its guts.

Please let me know how you get on. Thanks -- Trevor.
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  #22  
Old 09-03-2003, 08:29 PM
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I have the Smallcar shift kit installed and it did not fix the lack of engine braking in 3rd gear. As other people have mentioned, if the resistor is disconnected, the engine braking in 3rd gear is non-existent. I played with the setting screw in the shift kit and found that it make no difference for this problem. The shift kit reduces the flares, but does nothing to fix the 3rd gear engine braking.

I would like to keep the shift kit installed, but I need to be able to shift down to 3rd gear when descending the mountains coming home from ski trips. Either that or I ride the brakes and risk overheating them.

WWII, did adjusting the brake band fix the 3rd gear engine braking problem?

Cheers,
Matt
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  #23  
Old 09-03-2003, 09:05 PM
ww111
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Not a thing... I'd say there has to be a certain level of resistance in the system with the throttle closed to "lock" 3rd gear. The shop manual is great in explaining the entire tranny but the repair is under warrantee and the car's going back into the shop on Monday. Sheeze

Collins

And to Trever... the new TPS didn't change a thing so I'm not sure I'll find a problem with the old one. I'll look tho'... I'm scheduling a short break in early 2005
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  #24  
Old 09-03-2003, 11:32 PM
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Collins,

The object of the exercise was to find if the TPS can be pulled to bits and put back together. It would be sensible for someone who has a suspect unit to try this in case the unit becomes damaged in the process.

I hope you can assist. Thanks, Trevor.
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  #25  
Old 09-04-2003, 05:42 AM
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Trevor,

I can be disassembled, at least partially. SVX_commuter did a write up in the How-To's

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/How-To/1333.htm

Is this the kind of info you were looking for?
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  #26  
Old 09-04-2003, 09:36 AM
ww111
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It looks like it's sealed to me...

I've removed the return spring and the small cap from the "inside" of the unit but it looks to me like the internals are assembled from the rear and sealed/glued together. I'll post pictures as soon as I can.

Collins
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  #27  
Old 09-04-2003, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by lee
Trevor,

I can be disassembled, at least partially. SVX_commuter did a write up in the How-To's

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/How-To/1333.htm

Is this the kind of info you were looking for?
Sorry but this does not give any information regarding the disassembly of the actual unit.

What is more disturbing and greatly concerns me is the stated instructions covering setting the TPS. The reference used applies to a vehicle on which the original setting may or not have been correct. The proper method, as per the official manual, is to set the TPS based on voltage ( O.5 V. ) at closed throttle. This can be very easily accomplished using the method set out in an instruction in the " How Too ".

An analogue signal is involved and it is important is that the correct signal voltage is delivered at closed throttle. An approximate resistance measurement can not guarantee the proper setting and working on the basis of a measurement, not proven correct, is to say the least more than suspect.

I note that the the author prefers an inaccurate method so as to prevent burnt hands. I would suggest that anyone serious with maintenance works on a cool engine and this no reason to compromise accuracy.

The time consuming method suggested for checking resistance is time wasted. Smooth operation is easily confirmed more simply. An absolute check requires a 'scope or as a minimum a meter with a bargraph.
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Last edited by Trevor; 09-04-2003 at 09:15 PM.
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  #28  
Old 09-04-2003, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by ww111
It looks like it's sealed to me...

I've removed the return spring and the small cap from the "inside" of the unit but it looks to me like the internals are assembled from the rear and sealed/glued together. I'll post pictures as soon as I can.

Collins
Thanks Collins,

Don't go to the trouble of the pictures, as I have got the PICTURE ? !

I had hoped that the spring was locking the spindle in place and all might come to bits with it out, but sadly this does not appear to be the case. I have never given up on repairs because something is sealed up and manufactured as a throw away item. Any chance of cutting open the case ? Even if the first opened is a write off, this could be worthwhilke if a method of opening and repair is disclosed.

Thanks again, Trevor.
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  #29  
Old 09-04-2003, 09:04 PM
ww111
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Careful... It's 0.500 VDC, not 5 volts but being an EE (by edumacation anyway) I understand your concern.

Does anyone who's VERY familiar with the 4EAT think that overfilling could cause the flair? Once the flair happened after the rebuild I checked the fluid (too high) and the shop said they normaly overfill ALL overdrive transmissions

(this DID set off BIG warning signs)

Collins

BTW I'm going to have to cut the TPS open to get to the windings and sweeper only the return spring is external From the look of it I'm suprised that cleaing the unit actually worked.
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  #30  
Old 09-04-2003, 09:22 PM
ww111
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Avast!

Dang Trevor, could you wait till I replied to reply.. I mean really...
Harumpfff,

Collins

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Arrrrrrrr
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