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  #16  
Old 09-01-2003, 07:20 AM
supersvx
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Sergi,
Have you found what the problem was
I could not find what the clicking noise
was, and did not see any wild sparks.

It' worst when you don't know what the
problem is.
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  #17  
Old 09-01-2003, 05:10 PM
Subafreak's Avatar
Subafreak Subafreak is offline
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Location: Central Village Ct.
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Re: ... thing of all the money you saved...

Quote:
Originally posted by supersvx
Dude that was like hitting below the belt!

When I change my oil or my spark plug
it's not about the money I save, it's about knowing that I did it myself, or I
would not have bought this car, I would
have bought a honda or something.

That's what being a car enthusiast is all
about.

Theo

I know but I couldn't help it. We get cars in the shop all the time from people who try to fix there own things and always usually costing them selves 3times as much. I do encurage anyone here who feels capable enough to do there own work to go ahead and do it. After all the horror stories I hear about garages and SVX's it seems being able to work on these is the only way to afford owning one. It is for me anyway.
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92 SVX #772 140k 6speed, ECU Tune stage II, Koni/Ground control, 3,270lbs.
91 Legacy Turbo 5spd. FMIC, crappy stock turbo, ACT clutch.
78 BRAT (New toy) (Soon to be EJ22T powered)
90 240 SX. RB25 powered!! DRIFT!!!111!!! (GF's car)

To many cars to spend time on teh web!
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  #18  
Old 09-03-2003, 01:43 AM
6evil9
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Red face Still woundering around

hey everyone
Hi Theo...well its good im not alone in this world with that problem but think not good for u

well still dont know what s the problem
i kinda fixed that vacuum hose but have not solved the problem
gonna change and check last 6th spark tomorro...(have not changed it yet for know reason... ) oh well

ok the car goes absolutely ok on a motorway on straight... 100kmh- 2000-2100 rpms nice and smooth

when i go up the hill at 2000rpms it starts going bad...coughing and all that.... same on idle... really bad... sux....

plus i noticed that my engine temperature neva goes to proper level..its like 1/4 instead of half on that temperature gauge..which is weird...
ill do my last checking of coils and spark plugs and contacts...
but something tells me its more then that...


to subafreak..... man have u eva changed spakrs? if so u can notice that there s no way u can plug coil in the wrong spark...
just telling...

oh yeah, the wires which go to coils...they are uninsulated where they come in to coils..but considering its only 12v on em there should be no leakage on my opinion....



any chance to check the coils themselve? take the spark out , plug coil on it and run the engine? watch the spark? 700rpms.. u think ill notice if its bad?
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  #19  
Old 09-03-2003, 07:14 AM
supersvx
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Did some searching and it turns out there was one other person out there with our
problem.

He had the terrible vibrations at high
speed once in a wild too.
Everything we've checked he's checked
the last post that I saw he was checking
the electronics. Like where the coils plug
in. That were I think lies our problem.

Update you if I find anything at all.

Theo

BTW, one of the last post even talked
about the connectin to the ECU!!!
Let's just hope it doesn't come to that.
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  #20  
Old 09-03-2003, 06:23 PM
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Subafreak Subafreak is offline
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Hay 6Evil9, just trying to give you some ideas. I changed mine about 20k miles ago so I wasn't 100% about the possible wire mixup. As for the other wire problem I ment the rubber boot that goes over the plug might have a hole in it. I havn't had any problems like this with my SVX, but older Legacys tend to have the coil pacs go bad and jump spark right to the manifold. Really makes them run like crap and shake badly. Altho the coils on the SVX are compleatly different I think it could still be a possibility.

You could run the car with the coils pulled out but you would have to get plug wires that go into the coils and to the plugs. I don't know if Subaru has these for diagnosing but I know a few other car companies do.

GOOD LUCK.
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92 SVX #772 140k 6speed, ECU Tune stage II, Koni/Ground control, 3,270lbs.
91 Legacy Turbo 5spd. FMIC, crappy stock turbo, ACT clutch.
78 BRAT (New toy) (Soon to be EJ22T powered)
90 240 SX. RB25 powered!! DRIFT!!!111!!! (GF's car)

To many cars to spend time on teh web!
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  #21  
Old 09-06-2003, 09:14 AM
6evil9
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ok

i ve checked the coils sparks contacts, i looked at nite and no sign of bad coils, or some sparks at nite or anything

so i guess its somethin different


well my car has rough idle basically as i realised and have some missin combustion or something when i go up the hill at 60 miles per hour with 2000 revs ...otherwise its all good

does not take much more petrol the usual...maybe 1 liter more per 100km


its not bad but idle is damn rough ....and i stalled once..was sad....

maybe its some idle detectors or soemthign ? any ideas?


PS man i m sick of taking sparks out and checking em
i guess i can change all 6 sparks with my eyes closed in half an hour now lols

so any ideas what it can be?
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  #22  
Old 09-07-2003, 11:46 AM
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Subafreak Subafreak is offline
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Damn. I would have thought something with the coils or plugs was your best bet, but seems you can't find anything wrong with them i'm not really sure wear to check next. You say it idles really rough and stalls. You have checked all the vacume lines and hoses going into the intake right? Make sure theres no cracks or air leaks in the intake tube? Kinda hard to find these things over the net. but we'll keep trying.
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92 SVX #772 140k 6speed, ECU Tune stage II, Koni/Ground control, 3,270lbs.
91 Legacy Turbo 5spd. FMIC, crappy stock turbo, ACT clutch.
78 BRAT (New toy) (Soon to be EJ22T powered)
90 240 SX. RB25 powered!! DRIFT!!!111!!! (GF's car)

To many cars to spend time on teh web!
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  #23  
Old 09-08-2003, 01:48 AM
6evil9
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Can the alternator be the problem???

and how many vacuum hoses i should check for?

so far i know only bout 1...

ok i got cracks where the hoses come to the intake box,...but by my knowledge of physics it should not be the issue as the pressure in the intake is the atmosphiric pressure....
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  #24  
Old 09-08-2003, 04:57 PM
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Rough running

Hi Sergi

Just a couple of points on your problem, hope they can help you.

First, the plugs. My understanding, they are designed specifically for the SVX, the gap is perfect from the factory, and they should not be adjusted. Further, I do not even think you should touch the electrodes at all on platinum plugs. You may have inadvertently caused some of them to misfire.

Trevor's advice is good and logical, so check out the possibility of an electrical short first. Also, there is a very recent thread on the Down Under forum, where a member had your problems, and traced it to a duff coil. However, in his case, the problem got worse when hot, so yours is different.

Mine recently showed a code 32, but it was only a loose connection after tranny out operation. Did you try clearing the engine codes when you replaced the O2 sensor?

Strange you mention temp gauge at half mast. This would indicate your engine running too cool, any chance your thermostat is stuck in the open position? This would cause poor consumption if so.

Lastly, General Troubleshooting Table says the following for rough idling, most likely culprit first:
ECU power supply
By-pass air control solenoid valve.
Air flow sensor.

As number three on the list, the air flow sensor, is the one you admit to touching, maybe this is the one to check. Carefully clean it with a cotton bud dipped in solvent, they give strange readings if oil gets on them. Do not damage it, they are $$$$$-ive.

Best of luck, and to Theo also.

Joe
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  #25  
Old 09-08-2003, 04:57 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by 6evil9
Can the alternator be the problem???

and how many vacuum hoses i should check for?

so far i know only bout 1...

ok i got cracks where the hoses come to the intake box,...but by my knowledge of physics it should not be the issue as the pressure in the intake is the atmosphiric pressure....
Yes the pressure is the same, but all the air has to flow through the Mass Air Flow sensor, so that the engine computer can inject the right amount of fuel.

An air leak between the MAF sensor and the throttle plates will only affect the off idle running as the computer does not use the MAF sensor when idling. It will cause it to run lean above idle. So you can have a big leak in this section and it will still idle ok but have problems when the pedal is down.

An air leak between the the throttle plates and the valves will affect the idle mainly. Rising, falling idling speed, if the leak is small. If it is larger it will idle quite rich due to the rise in fuel pressure. It will also cause rough running when cruising on a light throttle.

So in short, all the air hoses count, they all have to be in good condition.

Harvey.
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  #26  
Old 09-08-2003, 08:32 PM
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Sergi so that you have a complete reply : -

No it will not be an alternator problem.

I advised you regarding what you should check a long way back there is nothing else to add. Please, please follow the advice you have been given in good faith. If you are in real strife bring your car for me to look at.

Regards, Trevor.
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