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  #1  
Old 08-20-2003, 10:58 AM
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mbtoloczko mbtoloczko is offline
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pictorial on fix for drooping visor

I know this has been covered before, but I haven't seen any pictures on what people have previously done, so I took some pictures while I was fixing the passenger-side visor on my car.

<http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?mbtoloczko|11252>

This visor stopped working one day when I attemped to pull it down, and I hear a very loud "pop". After that, it didn't stay up at all. When I cut open the fabric, I found that one of the plastic support loops had snapped on one side. My first attempt to fix the break was with superglue and a strip of an aluminum can. I roughened the visor plastic and the strip with emory cloth, and the superglue held well enough, but the Al snapped the first time I tried to rotate the visor down. When that happened, I realized that the plastic loop in the visor supports a very large stress, and I was no longer suprised that the plastic eventually failed. Anyhow, after the Al strip snapped, I figured I needed something with much better strength. The first thing I found that was of the approximate size and thickness was a hose clamp. I cut it to length, bent it to fit, roughened the interior surface of the hose clamp, and tried to glue it with superglue. I found that I could get the hose clamp section into the proper shape by bending it around a 3/8" socket drive extension. I used a vise grips to hold the hose clamp section in place while the the glue was drying. The superglue didn't work, so I tried JB Weld which seems to be working.

BTW, does it look to anyone else like the velour SVX visor is nothing but a cheap off-white vinyl visor encased in foam-backed velour cloth?
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  #2  
Old 08-31-2003, 01:01 AM
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follow-up

Well, the JB Weld did not hold. I chipped off all the JB Weld from the visor plastic and from the piece of hose clamp. I roughed the surfaces again, and this time I used "plastic weld" from Napa Auto Parts. elninoalex told me about the plastic weld. Hopefully, this stuff will work. It seems to be working better than the JB Weld during my initial tests.

Besides fixing the break in the plastic loop, I also decided to make some changes to the black metal springs. In the stock configuration, there is a metal shim inserted into the spring. The shim sits inside the spring. I removed that shim, and I placed a thinner hard plastic shim between the spring and the visor itself. I should have taken a picture of the change, but I forgot. Sorry. Anyhow, making this change puts a greater initial tension on the visor pivot shaft, but it also puts less tension on the shaft when the visor is pivoted away from the "up" position. Overall, I think it makes the visor work better while putting less stress on it.
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SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads.
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  #3  
Old 08-31-2003, 05:17 AM
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Not a bad job, Mychailo! I'm sure that will help many people.
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  #4  
Old 08-31-2003, 07:47 PM
JLittell
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There's a guy in town who runs a Suby shop who has come up with a permanent fix for the droopy visors. Not to sure why he hasn't marketed the fix yet...?? I'll try to get more info...
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  #5  
Old 08-31-2003, 09:29 PM
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I have to do both mine sometime this week. This is my FIX THE SVX WEEK! So far, I have been busy programming a new interface for the aiPC. Both visors are out. So I guess there is no way you can fix it without opening them up. Thats cool. I have a ton of glue in almost every format sitting on my work bench.

Thanks for the how-to.
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  #6  
Old 08-31-2003, 09:54 PM
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I was a bit apprehensive about cutting open the visor. Its only necessary to cut about 1.5" from the pivot shaft exit point. I found it was possible to close up the opening very cleanly using a hot glue gun. Pulling the stock shims out of the springs and putting a shim under the springs is an most important change IMHO. Have fun! :-)
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:: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ ::
1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold)

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SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads.
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  #7  
Old 09-01-2003, 11:23 AM
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Let me know if this fix works and I can change the how to when I get more information. If you end up opening it up again, get some pictures, or if someone else opens theirs up, get some pics and I will add them to the how to. Thanks
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  #8  
Old 09-01-2003, 11:52 AM
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mbtoloczko mbtoloczko is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by ensteele
Let me know if this fix works and I can change the how to when I get more information. If you end up opening it up again, get some pictures, or if someone else opens theirs up, get some pics and I will add them to the how to. Thanks
I'm not tempted to take apart the passenger side again. The velour is getting a bit tattered from being reopened several times. The driver's side will probably break soon though. I'll get some pictures then.
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:: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ ::
1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold)

Visit my locker

SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads.
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  #9  
Old 09-01-2003, 11:59 AM
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I will update the info on the glue used on the how to and update it. Let me know when you get different pics. Thanks
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1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680
1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229
1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car)
1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913
1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164
1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176
1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215
1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525
1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624
1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961
1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855
1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872
1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097
2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951
1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420

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