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  #1  
Old 08-09-2003, 02:43 PM
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ignition switch help

i think i've found the source of my incredibly annoying 'clock reset/radio power loss' problem. i noticed my ignition switch was pretty loose inside the steering column. when i shook it a little, sure enough my radio would power on and off. i was thinking maybe i have a loose acc power wire, but how do i get the steering column cover off?

my Chilton manual says the steering wheel may need to be removed, and the ignition switch is held in place with special shear bolts (that need to be replaced if the switch is removed.) can anyone confirm this?

THANK-YOU FOR ANY HELP!!!
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  #2  
Old 08-09-2003, 03:13 PM
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Re: ignition switch help

Quote:
Originally posted by Landshark
i think i've found the source of my incredibly annoying 'clock reset/radio power loss' problem. i noticed my ignition switch was pretty loose inside the steering column. when i shook it a little, sure enough my radio would power on and off. i was thinking maybe i have a loose acc power wire, but how do i get the steering column cover off?

my Chilton manual says the steering wheel may need to be removed, and the ignition switch is held in place with special shear bolts (that need to be replaced if the switch is removed.) can anyone confirm this?

THANK-YOU FOR ANY HELP!!!
Hi Alan,

Yes, this is correct. The steering lock is held to the column with those special bolts, screw them up to a certain torque, and a weakened narrow bit half way up the bolt shears. You can get these bolts from Subaru, so no problem.

The column covers are fairly easy to take off, but have patience. Swing the column up [to the get-out-of-vehicle position], it makes it easy to remove the screws holding the upper plastic to the lower. Go carefully sliding the lower section off the lever deep in for setting actual height.

The screws, two if memory serves, holding the ignition lock to the column are pretty big, maybe 8mm. If your ignition tumbler is as loose as you describe, they will be real loose, so easy to extract. You may need to use a small HSS drill, probably not.

When you get the bolts out, a workable temporary solution is to cut across the sheared end with a small hacksaw. This will leave you a slot for a blade head screwdriver and allow you to tighten up the lock till you get the new shear bolts.

Tightening the lock may cure your problem. However, you may, probably will, have to push on the loose ACC wire you mention, and you could even have to do a little solder job, if the wire connection is broken or nearly so.

Straightforward enough, best of luck with it.

Joe

PS, you should not need to remove the steering wheel to do this, but please be ultra careful if you have an airbag wheel.
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Last edited by svxistentialist; 08-09-2003 at 03:34 PM.
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  #3  
Old 08-09-2003, 03:15 PM
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My ignition housing is loose too where I can move it a bit. Is this a common SVX problem?
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  #4  
Old 08-09-2003, 03:39 PM
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Common?

John, don't really know if this is common, but I suspect so.

When I got my car from Japan nearly three years ago, it was so loose, the ignition was malfunctioning, was one of the first things I had to tackle.

I had to tighten it again last month. I imagine, if some thread compound was used, it would not loosen so easily. This might make it a good bit harder to get off again, should it loosen in the future.

It all depends how security conscious you are.

Joe
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Old 08-09-2003, 03:52 PM
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thank-you, Joe! i had a look under the steering column and there is a plastic 'screw/fastener thing' that kinda holds the ignition switch in place somewhat. its basically a smaller version of the fasteners that hold the plastic engine cover on. i kinda was able to secure the switch a little better by playing with this, but i'm sure i'll need to replace the shear bolts and secure the wiring better when i get the chance. thanks again.
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  #6  
Old 08-09-2003, 04:10 PM
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I have to have my ignition switch worked on because the key will come out at any position. I stopped at my local Lock Smith, and he said that he can take it out and fix everything (2 hours work) for $60. I think I will do this in the near future. It is very un-nerving to have the keys drop out as I am driving down the road.
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  #7  
Old 08-09-2003, 04:37 PM
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My whole housing seems to move quite a bit. Can you tighten it? Is the fastener plastic????? I would think there would be thin metal hex nut to tighten? I'll look at it tomorrow.
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  #8  
Old 08-09-2003, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Landshark
thank-you, Joe! i had a look under the steering column and there is a plastic 'screw/fastener thing' that kinda holds the ignition switch in place somewhat. its basically a smaller version of the fasteners that hold the plastic engine cover on. i kinda was able to secure the switch a little better by playing with this, but i'm sure i'll need to replace the shear bolts and secure the wiring better when i get the chance. thanks again.
You're welcome Alan.

John [and Alan], when you take off the self tappers that hold the two halves of the column cladding together, carefully note which screws go back in which slots.

Some are bigger than others, and if you force the bigger screws into a wrong position, it will burst or break the receiver side on the upper plastic, leaving you with a possible loose or rattly column cover.

{John, if yours is rattly, someone before you may already have made this mistake. You will know when you take the cover apart, and look at the condition of the receivers on the upper piece.}

Easy does it!

Joe
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  #9  
Old 08-09-2003, 06:20 PM
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Duct Tape...
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  #10  
Old 08-09-2003, 06:52 PM
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Tape-istry

OK, that has totally duct it.

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Old 10-08-2003, 09:31 PM
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I have heard that after removing the covers some people saw the shear bolts fall onto the floor. I had one fall out when I did this. I cut the slits into the bolts and put them back in. My steering wheel even locks now!

A previous owner had this apart as well and damaged the covers. I think he had everything on the car apart and broke at least something everywhere he went.
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  #12  
Old 03-21-2004, 04:23 PM
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Aloha,

I just reinstalled both ignition shear bolts, as I was experiencing the radio/clock cutout, as well as a very loose ignition switch. I chose to slot and reuse the originals. Thanks to all for the pointers!

To clarify, always remove the lower dash fascia first to allow the plastic steering column housings to be removed easily and without breakage. The fascia is held in place by 3 screws and clips. Gently pop out the power mirror switch unit and coin holder to access the top screws. The third one is at the very bottom center of the panel. The panel can then be moved out of the way. Also, I had to remove the lower metal tray (4 bolts) to retrieve one of the shear bolts. For ease of working with the shear bolts, remove the metal ignition housing bracket as well.

Again, thank you for all the help with this and everything else.

Last edited by svx&paradise; 03-21-2004 at 07:33 PM.
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  #13  
Old 03-21-2004, 06:23 PM
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I have never actually had any problems with my SVX ignition switch yet but I did on my XT. I got the break away bolts out using a sharp chissel and hammer to loosen them a little then they came right out very easily by hand, I just replaced them with regular bolts,, if someone took the time to get at the bolts in an attempt to steal the car it would be much easier to do a little wire jumping under the dash as I found out when I installed my remote starter system, the diagram they sent me tells exactly which color wires to use, so anyone experienced enough to steal cars would have no problem at all hot wiring it.
Unless there is another purpose for the safety bolts being used??? Thanks, Vernon.
Oh.. the reason for having to get the bolts out on the XT wasn't a loose switch, the igniton lock was messed up to where the key wouln't work.
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Old 03-22-2004, 02:58 AM
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Talking We have ignition

Quote:
Originally posted by svx&paradise
Aloha,

I just reinstalled both ignition shear bolts, as I was experiencing the radio/clock cutout, as well as a very loose ignition switch. I chose to slot and reuse the originals. Thanks to all for the pointers!

To clarify, always remove the lower dash fascia first to allow the plastic steering column housings to be removed easily and without breakage. The fascia is held in place by 3 screws and clips. Gently pop out the power mirror switch unit and coin holder to access the top screws. The third one is at the very bottom center of the panel. The panel can then be moved out of the way. Also, I had to remove the lower metal tray (4 bolts) to retrieve one of the shear bolts. For ease of working with the shear bolts, remove the metal ignition housing bracket as well.

Again, thank you for all the help with this and everything else.
Hey Gary

The SVX makes the world a small place. DIY service information all the way from Ireland to Honolulu!

Glad you got it sorted. I will be sure to look you up if I am in Honolulu[fat chance ], and you be sure to contact me if coming to Ireland.

Beaujolais huh? Mine is a more spicy colour, Guinness over Shiraz.



Joe
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