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  #16  
Old 06-09-2012, 10:27 PM
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Talking Re: SVX is testing my resolve..

Put a 6 speed in it, I think the svx's motto is treat em mean and keep em keen lol
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  #17  
Old 06-13-2012, 09:42 PM
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gjhumphris gjhumphris is offline
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Re: SVX is testing my resolve..

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDW-SVX View Post

The transmission on the SVX does seem to be a problem though - the one in my Grey SVX failed originally at only 52,000 km!!!!

There is still some debate as to why the 4EAT unit fitted to the SVX is so failure-prone, as the (essentially) same unit fitted to other models has proven very reliable. It may simply be that the unit is not strong enough to handle the torque and weight of the SVX. For example, the original 4EAT in my 1987 Vortex is still running fine - after more than 200,000 km!

If you have a 4EAT rebuilt by a professional who knows these transmissions, you should certainly not expect a failure to occur after only 40,000 km. It does sound as if the rebuild was not done properly. One thing that comes to mind is that if the high clutch was not replaced during the previous rebuild, this would cause slipping in 3rd and 4th.

Note that an excessive delay in engaging reverse is often caused by low line pressure, so I would check the condition of the fluid and the filter in the pan before going any further.



Jason.

So from everyone's experience with the SVX's auto transmission, what are the main things to implement in order to maximise its life? Is it sedate driving, separate oil cooler, more frequent transmission fluid changes, particle filter? I even read somewhere that it is advisable to use only the first 3 gears when city / suburbs driving? Is it hardest on the transmission when you are city driving or freeway driving?
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  #18  
Old 06-13-2012, 10:08 PM
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Re: SVX is testing my resolve..

Quote:
Originally Posted by gjhumphris View Post
So from everyone's experience with the SVX's auto transmission, what are the main things to implement in order to maximise its life? Is it sedate driving, separate oil cooler, more frequent transmission fluid changes, particle filter? I even read somewhere that it is advisable to use only the first 3 gears when city / suburbs driving? Is it hardest on the transmission when you are city driving or freeway driving?
All those things other than "sedate driving" can be expected to help. There's no need to baby the car. What mainly hurts the transmission is cruising along at low speeds with really light throttle in 4th gear. The high gear, coupled with the high final drive, generate a lot of heat. And at low throttle, the line pressure is very low, which can cause it to slip, generating more heat, and releasing particles, due to wear of the friction parts (not sure of the names of the things in there). So when you're on the throttle, the line pressure is high, and the trans will be fine actually. Counter-intuitive, I know.

But basically all those other things would be expected to help.

Driving with it in "3" at low speeds (like <50mph) keeps it from using 4th gear, which means the trans doesn't have to work as hard, reducing heat and wear. This will very slightly reduce your gas mileage. The "power mode mod" (search about it) will also help. What I do is turn on power mode and keep the shifter in 3 until I get up to ~50 mph, then change to D. Then once I'm cruising I turn off power mode, so the torque converter will lock up.

A transmission cooler will also reduce heat, and (I think) would be especially useful at higher speeds in 4th. Depends on ambient temperatures where you live the setup you want. For example, in Alaska, you might be best off with adding a cooler in line with the radiator, before the radiator, so the radiator can warm up the trans fluid to operating temps. While here in Florida, I might be better off bypassing it altogether and just using a big aftermarket trans cooler.

A filter I am not sure how helpful it would be actually. It might interfere with flow more than it would help. Not sure on this.

Regular trans fluid changes are a must. If you overcook the trans fluid, then it kind of quits doing its job. Good synthetic trans fluid is also a very good idea. I like mobil1 synthetic ATF, svxfiles is partial to BG products synthetic ATF. If you haven't changed it since you got the car, CHANGE IT. And the gear oil as well. They will all probably be gross. I change mine every year or so, and I only do about 8k miles a year (in the car that's still automatic). People tend to neglect these fluids, and that is usually fine in other cars, but not this one.

Any more questions?
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'94 Laguna Blue LSi ~159k.......JDM ultra short-geared 3.900 STi Version 7 6-speed w/ Cobb shortshifter, ECUtune 244,8.1mm/256,9.1mm i/e cams, group N motor mounts, '97 grille, JDM clear corners, Momo JDM Legacy GT steering wheel, apkarian's LED tails, silver STi BBS wheels, PWR radiator, redstuff pads f/r, drilled/slotted rotors, bontragerworks rsb #18, Koni/GC 450f/375r coilovers, Megan Racing adjustable lateral links, KMac c/c plates, Stebro exhaust, ECUtune 1v5, Optima battery in the trunk where it belongs. Turbo project

'97 Ebony LSi ~137k #036.......Power mode mod, JDM clear corners, BBS wheels. AUX/pocket mod

Now a mod "over there" ............Photo album
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  #19  
Old 06-15-2012, 08:32 PM
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Re: SVX is testing my resolve..

Buy a svx and then save for a manual gear box, I drive my svx's hard and I've busted every auto in all of my svx's (twice in one of them) so fast or slow they just break.

We don't have a power button in oz it's comes on as a result of hard acceleration response
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92 pearl SVX about to revive
92 Black 4ws (Jap spec) SVX
93 black SVX
93 Liquid Silver SVX - sti 6 speed with R180 diff, my05 sti steering wheel, sti alloy lateral links, 19x8.5 275/30 42mm offset front and 19x8.5 275/30 22mm offset on the rear, 6 pot brembo caliper with 355 rotors front, 2 pot brembos rear
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  #20  
Old 06-16-2012, 01:44 AM
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Re: SVX is testing my resolve..

Brady, I hope you are sitting down because it's time we sorted this out and it's going to hurt.

You keep coming on the forum bad mouthing your SVX saying you got a dud. I have stood back and bitten my tongue for the last couple of years and put up with the rubbish you go on in your attempt to get sympathy when the truth of your car is greatly different from what you portray. So no one is confused, here is the truth.

Your car was for sale at Dom's Motors in Griffith NSW and they were asking $20k. The car was a perfect example of a well looked after SVX. The down side was that it had around 200,000kms on the clock. I inspected the car for you and made the point to you that it was still the original transmission and radiator; as such if you purchessed the car you would have to be prepared to replace both of these units. At the time a reasonable SVX of the 92 vintage was selling for $15 to 17k.

Based on the fact that the car would need these two expenses I suggested we point out this cost to the dealer to get the price reduced. You agreed that it would be the way to go. On this basis I went to the dealer and said that the top price for the car was $10k because these things needed to be done to bring it up to a level at which it would become a reliable car.

At the time of the car's purchase I told you a number of times "DON'T BUY THE CAR UNLESS YOU ARE PREPARED TO REPLACE THE RADIATOR AND TRANSMISSION". You on repeated occasions agreed that you understood what was required to get the car up to grade and was prepared to do that. When you took delivery of the car you failed to remember that you were given a massive discount off the price (50%) to cover the repairs and that you were warned by me that this cost would need to be incurred immediately. I mentioned you would need to do the timing belt as well. My guess like the rest of my advice you have ignored that as well.

Now I am happy to support my statement with copies of emails if required.

From here on in Brady you are welcome on the forum and we are all happy to help you maintain the car. But I am no longer going to stand by and listen to you mislead people on the forum. I will not bring this up again unless you continue to go back to your old story. The fact that I have stood by and let you bad mounth a transaction that I was involved in can only reflect on how fair I have been to not bring this up earlier.

The ball is in your court now.

Tony
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1992 - SVX 255 K Wife (Want to stay Married so not allowed to fit SC)
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1995 - SVX Green low k mint condiation.
1995 - SVX Rally car, ex Matts car. Now to be used on track.
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1995 - SVX Red 143,000 bit rough.
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  #21  
Old 06-18-2012, 05:53 AM
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gjhumphris gjhumphris is offline
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Wink Re: SVX is testing my resolve..

Quote:
Originally Posted by icingdeath88 View Post
All those things other than "sedate driving" can be expected to help. There's no need to baby the car. What mainly hurts the transmission is cruising along at low speeds with really light throttle in 4th gear. The high gear, coupled with the high final drive, generate a lot of heat. And at low throttle, the line pressure is very low, which can cause it to slip, generating more heat, and releasing particles, due to wear of the friction parts (not sure of the names of the things in there). So when you're on the throttle, the line pressure is high, and the trans will be fine actually. Counter-intuitive, I know.

But basically all those other things would be expected to help.

Driving with it in "3" at low speeds (like <50mph) keeps it from using 4th gear, which means the trans doesn't have to work as hard, reducing heat and wear. This will very slightly reduce your gas mileage. The "power mode mod" (search about it) will also help. What I do is turn on power mode and keep the shifter in 3 until I get up to ~50 mph, then change to D. Then once I'm cruising I turn off power mode, so the torque converter will lock up.

A transmission cooler will also reduce heat, and (I think) would be especially useful at higher speeds in 4th. Depends on ambient temperatures where you live the setup you want. For example, in Alaska, you might be best off with adding a cooler in line with the radiator, before the radiator, so the radiator can warm up the trans fluid to operating temps. While here in Florida, I might be better off bypassing it altogether and just using a big aftermarket trans cooler.

A filter I am not sure how helpful it would be actually. It might interfere with flow more than it would help. Not sure on this.

Regular trans fluid changes are a must. If you overcook the trans fluid, then it kind of quits doing its job. Good synthetic trans fluid is also a very good idea. I like mobil1 synthetic ATF, svxfiles is partial to BG products synthetic ATF. If you haven't changed it since you got the car, CHANGE IT. And the gear oil as well. They will all probably be gross. I change mine every year or so, and I only do about 8k miles a year (in the car that's still automatic). People tend to neglect these fluids, and that is usually fine in other cars, but not this one.

Any more questions?


Thanks for such an in depth answer icingdeath88! I'll take all that on board.

Two more questions: It seems from the forums that the water pumps fail - at about how many km does this seem to happen and would I be best just replacing mine so I don't have it fail on me?

And secondly, for those guys in Australia, how much does a radiator usually cost for an SVX? The radiator looks fairly new, but I'm not sure. Looking from the back where the fans are, the radiator is VERY silver and the top has lots of little silver clips connected to the black top radiator. Hope this makes sense. Does that indicate it is not the original?

Sorry about all the seemingly silly questions - just want to get to know these cars, and I'm not overly mechanically minded - just love the SVX!
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  #22  
Old 06-18-2012, 08:58 AM
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Re: SVX is testing my resolve..

I would change the the water pump when it fails or when you next change cam belts and oil seals as its under everything that needs to be changed.

It sounds like you have the original radiator, it's cheaper to have an aluminium top tank fabricated replacing the original top tank (that is usually what fails as a result of vibration stress cracks) should cost between $400-$500 or get one from pwr which is cheaper then oem radiators at over $1000
__________________
92 pearl SVX about to revive
92 Black 4ws (Jap spec) SVX
93 black SVX
93 Liquid Silver SVX - sti 6 speed with R180 diff, my05 sti steering wheel, sti alloy lateral links, 19x8.5 275/30 42mm offset front and 19x8.5 275/30 22mm offset on the rear, 6 pot brembo caliper with 355 rotors front, 2 pot brembos rear
95 bright red SVX
96 emerald pearl SVX about to revive
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  #23  
Old 06-18-2012, 10:24 AM
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icingdeath88 icingdeath88 is offline
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Re: SVX is testing my resolve..

^ Or you could get an ebay radiator shipped from the US, that ought to still be way cheaper than an OEM one. They are like $120 US. So even after shipping they may be the most cost-effective option. The "silla" ones are generally approved of on the forums, the other ebay radiators may not be as good.
__________________
'94 Laguna Blue LSi ~159k.......JDM ultra short-geared 3.900 STi Version 7 6-speed w/ Cobb shortshifter, ECUtune 244,8.1mm/256,9.1mm i/e cams, group N motor mounts, '97 grille, JDM clear corners, Momo JDM Legacy GT steering wheel, apkarian's LED tails, silver STi BBS wheels, PWR radiator, redstuff pads f/r, drilled/slotted rotors, bontragerworks rsb #18, Koni/GC 450f/375r coilovers, Megan Racing adjustable lateral links, KMac c/c plates, Stebro exhaust, ECUtune 1v5, Optima battery in the trunk where it belongs. Turbo project

'97 Ebony LSi ~137k #036.......Power mode mod, JDM clear corners, BBS wheels. AUX/pocket mod

Now a mod "over there" ............Photo album
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