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  #1  
Old 02-15-2009, 10:09 PM
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liamrh liamrh is offline
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Remote start and alarm

Trying to finish putting this unit in my car, and I ran into two different sources that show the ign2 and ACC wires as the same red/yel coming off the harness under the column. Anyone else dealt with this before? I had the car getting turned over remotely, but **** wasn't working right and it wouldn't start. Trying to find more info, please let me know if you can help.


PS - I have pulled all the info I could off of this site before the "search" word comes out.
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  #2  
Old 02-17-2009, 08:54 AM
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dannmarr dannmarr is offline
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Re: Remote start and alarm

My personal experience was the remote caused many problems with my SVX, so I removed it completly. It could have been installed wrong, but every remote I delt with in the past caused me headaches. I rather not mess with the electronics of a car, especially a Japanese car$$. Just my experience.
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  #3  
Old 02-17-2009, 11:06 AM
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Re: Remote start and alarm

Grab a multimeter and just sort it out. When I put in my remote start, I too couldn't find consistent wiring diagrams, and just resorted to using a meter and turning the key through all the positions until I found all the wires I needed.

Also, if you tear out the factory alarm/remote module, it's got a nice diagram sticker on it. I wired 90% of my remote start based off that pin-out. I took the broken factory module apart and cut the plug block out of it. Then just wired everything to that so I could plug into the factory harness. It has all the power, ground, door locks, horn, etc pins you need. Then I wired the remote starter relay module under the dash inline with the ignition switch. IIRC, I only needed the spade connectors off the factory immobilizer relay (that I took out) or something... there wasn't much (if any) wire splicing that I had to do under the dash.

'Course, I installed my remote start like 4 years ago, so my memory may not be all that clear. I just don't remember it being a dramatic process.
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  #4  
Old 02-17-2009, 11:07 AM
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Re: Remote start and alarm

Quote:
Originally Posted by liamrh View Post
Trying to finish putting this unit in my car, and I ran into two different sources that show the ign2 and ACC wires as the same red/yel coming off the harness under the column. Anyone else dealt with this before? I had the car getting turned over remotely, but **** wasn't working right and it wouldn't start.
What year/trim is your car?

Did it have the stock security system? If yes, what did you do about the starter kill relay?

When you say it "turns over" do you really mean the starter cranks but the engine fails to run? Or something else?

Don't know about those wire colors off the top of my head (and won't be able to look until later). But I do know that the wiring diagrams have errors (but I'm not aware of any in particular having to do with key/starter).
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  #5  
Old 02-19-2009, 07:56 PM
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liamrh liamrh is offline
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Re: Remote start and alarm

Well, from what I can see, the IGN wire in the stock alarm harness doesn't provide proper voltage monitoring to the module. Since we have tapped into the start and acc off the four main cables via the ign, I am probably going to tap the other two and run them back. I got the door locks and horn to work just fine from the back module

94 L - no alarm

The parking lights won't do a forking thing though and the door triggers don't trip the alarm.


Oh yeah, we had the multimeter all over the shiz, just wanted to see if anyone else had better experience.
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  #6  
Old 02-22-2009, 05:51 PM
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liamrh liamrh is offline
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Re: Remote start and alarm

I tapped all four wires post harness of the column.

12v, starter, ign, and acc are all run back to the box in the trunk.

The colors change from the harness to the key cylinder. What is listed on most websites is correct. red/yellow=acc red=ign black/white=starter(iirc) and black/yellow = 12v

Horn, etc come off the harness. I still can't get the door to trigger though....might be with the unit itself and the programming.

Remote start works, need to bump it up to a 1sec crank time.

The voltage monitoring works for its own input on whether or not the vehicle is running. I am sure you could tap the tach and run a lead but I try not to mess with that signal.

Locks etc all work. Think the parking lights is because the unit is set to ground for the lights when it seems it should be set to provide a +12v signal. It was grounding the ground by default.


Set antenna in the back, seems to have pretty good range.
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