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#46
10-17-2005, 04:17 PM
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how about this? Adapt a copper plate and put two or three 12v peltiers behind the throttle body with heatsinks on the hot side. I don't know how much of a gain you'd expect, but if you want the air to be cooler, peltiers will do it
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#47
10-17-2005, 07:14 PM
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The fans will do nothing while the engine is running unless they can actually pump more CFM than the engine can consume. If you're just using standard 12V computer fans, then they aren't even close to pushing enough CFM at WOT, they will just become an obstruction to the airflow. Have you also considered what will happen should a blade or worse, the motor assembly breaks and gets sucked into the engine?
While it's not the sillest idea, I'm willing to bet a hefty sum that it isn't genius either. I'd probably put this on par with the "tornado", though at a much higher cost and effort involved. KuoH Quote:
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#48
10-17-2005, 08:54 PM
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You are on the right track when it comes to the hot manifold transferring heat to the copper pipe, but you need to do the reverse. Look for something in the engine bay thats cool and have your copper pipe attached to that. It's not as good as running cooling coils, but you will get some heat transfer and keep the temperature of the copper down to some point below the engine itself.
You could do something really elaborate and make some cooling fins - like on a heat sink. Have them towards the bottom of the engine bay...heat rises, and maybe have some air from the bottom of the car blow on them. Of course this makes the insulating wrap more useless than it already is. By the way, what kind of rubber/tape is that? Is it flammable?
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#49
10-17-2005, 10:18 PM
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I don't think this is going to do a lot of good. As elvis said, copper is not a good isolator. Plastic is though. I think if your main goal is to keep the heat away from the intake air you should stay with the stock platic tubing. If you wanted to get real creative you could make a larger piece of platic tubing to go over the stock one, that doesn't touch the stock one. That way you have plastic tubing (bad heat transfer), then air (worse heat transfer), then plastic tubing (bad heat transfer). Even then, it's not going to matter that much. You'll be better off spending that time and money on other areas of your car.
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#50
10-18-2005, 12:43 AM
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why not just wrap the stock plastic intake and airbox in heat shield insulation? it will do the same thing, be easier, and cheaper.
it may not look pretty, but the copper, duct tape, and computer fans won't either.
__________________
Alan 1987 928 S4 (Black) SOLD!  1997 SVX LSi (Ebony) SOLD! 2005 Legacy GT (Silver) [Cobb Stg 2+] SOLD! 1987 928 S4 (Black) SOLD! 2005 Forester XT Premium (Crystal Gray Metallic) SOLD! 2008 Lancer Evolution X MR (Apex Silver) [Cobb Stg 1+] 2015 Outlander Sport 2.4GT AWD (Mercury Gray) 2013 G37xS (Obsidian Black)
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#51
10-18-2005, 01:00 AM
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Or that, it's all pretty insignificant.
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#52
10-18-2005, 01:28 AM
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Quote:
and I tried to set the the rubber and tape on fire, they never did. especially the tape!! it even didn't change shape...  Quote:
As for the $$ it only costed me like $25 the whole thing... 
__________________
Danny 1994 Silver SVX in hybernation, awaiting for the monsterous awakening (Lebanon)  1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration  2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection. 
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#53
10-18-2005, 11:21 AM
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What is the fan for? Are you are thinking that the fan will generate cold air? "Cooling" can not be generated. Things get colder because they lose heat, not because they gain cold. The way a fan works (in a cooling capacity) is to increase the heat transfer that is already taking place by giving more air a chance to contact the hot thing.
The best way to have a fan help out is to have your hot thing be wet. Evaporation in the process of a liquid (water or alcohol, or whatever) turning to a gas. Molecules in a gas are less densly packed than molecules in a liquid, so they can move around more easily and expand. Movement requires energy (heat). That's why splashing water on your face cools you off - the evaporating water vapor quickly sucks the heat out of your skin as it turns to a gas and expands. A fan blowing on something wet will help the water evaporate (turn to vapor) more quickly, and thus more quickly suck heat off the wet thing. Putting a fan in the airstream (the fan is in the tube, right?) may increase the velocity of the air a tad, which I guess is nice, but you won't be able to generate anywhere near the pressure a turbo or supercharger would. All increasing the velocity of the air will do is to increase the friction, and thus heat the air. Also remember that the fan's motor will produce heat when its on, and that heat will transfer to the air in the tube. Superchargers and Turbos also heat the air (by convection from the exhaust side, increasing the velocity, and by the compression) - that's what intercoolers are designed to mitigate. And I belive that most of the benefit of an intercooler is gained by allowing the air to expand a little, not by transfering the heat away.
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#54
10-18-2005, 11:49 AM
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The fan is not for generating cold air but rather transfer the cold air from the outside to the intake and in the same time push the heat from the engine somehow to the inside of the intake... the thing is just theoretical... and i don't want to put a blower in the system because i don't want to disrupt the MAF sensor... and this is why i put the fan after the maf and not before it...
I am 70% sure that half of the system i am building will be taken out and put back again the plastic thing at the level of the manifold, but it is just to fulfill my curious side of this thing...
__________________
Danny 1994 Silver SVX in hybernation, awaiting for the monsterous awakening (Lebanon) 1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration 2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection.
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#55
10-18-2005, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
phil
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~Phil Teal 1992 Subaru SVX Turbo - Sold in May 2011 to peace-frog.
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#56
10-18-2005, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
__________________
Danny 1994 Silver SVX in hybernation, awaiting for the monsterous awakening (Lebanon) 1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration 2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection.
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#57
10-18-2005, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
__________________
86 GMC Jimmy Blue and Silver- R.I.P. 87 Integra RS ~228k miles R.I.P. 92 SVX LS-L Perly ~186k R.I.P. 89 240sx se red ~165k miles Gone and unknown 89 240sx se Black~185k R.I.P. 85 Toyota pickup ~205k R.I.P. 85 BMW 325e ~ Gone and unknown 85 Ford Mustang getting engine swap now! 05 Colorado ~108k Daily Driver
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#58
10-18-2005, 12:42 PM
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vantec makes a 80cfm fan, thats the highest 80mm fan i have seen and its not half of what you need. they run at 5700rpm so i imagine a fan to blow 400cfm would be dangerous. i remember trying to hold one in my hand when i turned it on. the little turd has so much tq it riped it self free from my grasp.
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#59
10-18-2005, 12:48 PM
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The image of someone trying to suck molasses through a straw comes to mind for some reason. I'm guessing that if he goes ahead and tries to do a couple of test runs, especially at WOT, some fan pieces will end up in the cylinders.
KuoH Last edited by kuoh; 10-18-2005 at 12:51 PM.
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