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  #1  
Old 12-24-2006, 04:33 PM
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speed bleeder

anyone tried these?

http://www.speedbleeder.com/
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95 LS-i Red, 31,xxx; bone stock for now; Daily Driver

94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

2006 Subaru Outback LL Bean, 166,xxx sold

92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold
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  #2  
Old 12-24-2006, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shotgunslade
anyone tried these?

http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Very simple one way valve and should make brake bleeding easy for one person. Looks like a good idea.
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  #3  
Old 12-25-2006, 07:24 PM
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We have them on the racer. I had them on my BRAT, If I'm bleeding and I know about it a couple weeks ahead I'd have them on ever car I own.
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  #4  
Old 12-26-2006, 07:35 AM
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How many times do you plan on bleeding your brakes? The avearge owner once or twice over the course of ownership? Just curious.
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  #5  
Old 12-26-2006, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beav
How many times do you plan on bleeding your brakes? The avearge owner once or twice over the course of ownership? Just curious.
The average owner thinks that the only fluid that needs changed is the oil too Beav you should know that more than anybody . Slade goes to track days a few times a year. My guess is he's changing at least once a year if not more.

I've never let a car go more than 2-3 years between changing at least since I lost my brakes on my street svx at a track.
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  #6  
Old 12-26-2006, 08:51 AM
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I'll be changing the fluid every 6 months. Also, i have 12 track days scheduled for this upcoming year, and I'll be bleeding the brakes after every one of them. After a couple of hours on the track, it feels like pushing into a block of foam rubber.
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95 LS-i Red, 31,xxx; bone stock for now; Daily Driver

94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

2006 Subaru Outback LL Bean, 166,xxx sold

92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold
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  #7  
Old 12-26-2006, 08:58 AM
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Hence my usage of the term 'average'. Most owners don't keep their cars more than 3-4 years. I agree with every 2 years for average usage. Almost all OEMs recommend it at that interval but trying to convince most owners of that is difficult.

My biggest problem with all of the assorted 'one man' bleeders is that upon release of the brake pedal air IS pulled into the system around the bleeder screw threads. If this wasn't an issue mechanics would simply slip a rubber hose over an open bleeder screw and submerge the other end in a pop bottle half full of brake fluid. Supposedly the brake fluid in the botlle would keep air from being introduced whe the pedal is released but it just doesn't work because of the threads passing air.
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  #8  
Old 12-26-2006, 09:51 AM
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I believe this is a known issue. They provide a thread sealant, that must be renewed from time to time.
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95 LS-i Red, 31,xxx; bone stock for now; Daily Driver

94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

2006 Subaru Outback LL Bean, 166,xxx sold

92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold
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  #9  
Old 12-26-2006, 10:41 AM
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No thread sealent on ours if I remember correctly, no issues although we've only bled them 2 or 3 times so far on the racer, never noticed it elsewhere being an issue.

Oh and beav, the fluid in my f-250 looks like coffee without the cream . I'm actually afraid to change it as I'm sure I'll ruin the karma it has in there, just like that auto tranny with the factory fluid at 250k. As soon as the owner changes it, the slipping starts.
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  #10  
Old 12-26-2006, 11:05 AM
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My mistake. The sealant actually comes pre-applied to the threads and does not need to be reapplied. Guaranteed not to bleed air into the systme through the thread space. Spoke with the folks directly.
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95 LS-i Red, 31,xxx; bone stock for now; Daily Driver

94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

2006 Subaru Outback LL Bean, 166,xxx sold

92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold
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  #11  
Old 12-26-2006, 11:42 AM
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That sounds right. I think they had pink threads which will definately give you an extra whp at each corner! If that's the case, who even cares if they work (which they do) .

I also have a mityvac which works well too and would cost about the same.
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  #12  
Old 12-26-2006, 06:36 PM
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Sounds good, I hope it all works out as advertised.

pssst.... in my world sealants have to be reapplied with each disturbance. even the pink and/or red stuff. I've tried using silicone grease in the past but it sucks through on the first pass. You don't want to try anything else as it will contaminate the system. My personal favorite is to employ an off-duty waitress from - all together now - and let her pump the pedal while I work the wrench and bottle.

Actually I use power bleeders or a Phoenix Injector. Feel free to Google that.
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  #13  
Old 12-26-2006, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beav
Sounds good, I hope it all works out as advertised.

pssst.... in my world sealants have to be reapplied with each disturbance. even the pink and/or red stuff. I've tried using silicone grease in the past but it sucks through on the first pass. You don't want to try anything else as it will contaminate the system. My personal favorite is to employ an off-duty waitress from - all together now - and let her pump the pedal while I work the wrench and bottle.

Actually I use power bleeders or a Phoenix Injector. Feel free to Google that.

As I said I've never had an issue with 'em. Had more of an issue getting the Subaru ones to reseal in my experience. Yeah, I'd use a power bleeder too if I made mechanic rates !
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  #14  
Old 12-28-2006, 07:46 AM
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Ever think of using a garden sprayer and a nipple screwed into an old reservoir cap?

psssst.... garden sprayers also make excellent pre-lubers for newly assembled engines...
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  #15  
Old 01-04-2007, 07:33 PM
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Direct from the site

Thread Sealant Now Available

The thread sealant is now available in 1/2 oz. bottles so that you can replace the sealant that has worn off over time. It comes in a plastic bottle with a brush cap applicator. It is available for $10.00 and can be used in many other situations where a quality pre-applied pipe sealant is required. A little goes a long way. The recommended procedure for applying is as follows:

Clean the Speed Bleeder with soapy water to remove any brake fluid or grease and dry. A hair dryer does this nicely. With the brush cap applicator apply a small amount of thread sealant evenly to the threaded portion of the bleeder screw. (Leave the first 1 1/2 threads uncoated. This makes it easy to start threading into the wheel cylinder or caliper without cross threading.) After it is applied, dry with a hair dryer on high setting for about 1 minute. When cool and dry it is ready for installation.
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