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HELP Please!!! Won't start, engine code 29 Crank Angle Sensor 2
Ok, this is a long story but I will try to make it short. I bought my SVX while I was in Iraq, as my end of deployment award for being gone. I live in AZ it was in Ohio. I spent money to get the brakes redone, oil changed, fluids checked, and a cold air intake to make the 2000 miles a little more "fun". During the first day of the trip, I pulled over to find my vehicle smoking. I limped it to the first possible hoteol and hoped for the best. The next day, I took it easy and didn't encounter any smoke. Third day I checked the oil while it was cold outside and added the proper amount. I noticed an oil leak but I needed to get back. On my last day I started smoking again. had an oil leak again but oil levels were fine, temp gage stayed dead even and no trouble lights came on. I got home and I have had a few problems where the car just wouldn't start, if I waited a while it would start. Then two days ago it was having trouble starting and sounded like the battery was dying, but she finally cranked over. I checked the battery and everything is fine, brand new battery. I tried to start it one more time and the engine sounded like it was metal rubbing on metal as the starter just stopped moving. Now all that happens is I get a metallic click under the hood when I try to start it. This whole time the oil levels have remained between full and overfull. I got on this page this morning and checked the engine codes. I get an error code 29 crank angle sensor 2, does anyone know what this means? The worst possible scenario is that I have seized the engine. Either way I need to get it fixed at any cost. I have dreamt about, driven my wife crazy, and fantisized about this car for way too long to have it die on me now. Please I need any and all help.
Last edited by JAESVX; 10-31-2006 at 08:31 AM. |
#2
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Not sure what happens when the crank angle sensor goes bad....this very well is your problem. I'll let the other guys chime in, but your smoke may be the oil dripping on the exhaust pipes... and sometimes the starter is known to act up. Mine used to do it intermittenly where the key would turn and just click away, but after a few turns the starter would be okay.
WHere in Ohio did you buy it? |
#3
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Quote:
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#4
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You'll probably have a hard time starting it with a bad Crank Sensor. it is located on top of the block behind the alt. There are three that work together. One is called a cam sensor on the driver side of the engine towards the front on the side. I think you can see it if you are looking down at the oil filler neck. Two right next to eachother in the location mentioned before. The top one is sould be the Cam (i think they also call it Crank 2), and the one just off to the side (left) I is is the crank sensor.
There should be a testing proceedure on here somewhere to tell if the voltage it reading correct. The ignition switch likes to fail in these. When you turn the key, it will click once. I could see someone thinking it is coming from the starter as it sounds similar to a starter solinoid failing to engage, just quieter... which is illudes that it may be coming from the engine compartment. The giveaway is that it only clicks once, not a few times rapidly...unless the key is not being turned all the way, but then it is more like a "buzz". -EDIT- I had the two sensors on top reversed, I corrected the post.
__________________
-Mike ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165 Member #995 | My Locker | My New Locker Catch you next at: ? Auto-X ? Last edited by Speedklix; 10-31-2006 at 11:49 AM. |
#5
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Speedklix, I got the once click, but what leads me to believe that the starter might be bad was the way it sounded, like a battery dying, but I have full power. Would the ignition switch cause that? The worst thing is it sounded like it was having a ton of trouble actually turning the crank. Is there a way to tell if the engine is seized without trying to start it. Either way when my wife gets back with our other car I am going to take the starter to have it tested. If it tests all right, I am going to look in to the ingnition switch. |
#6
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Thats is how mine acted, and sounded.
Disconnect the Batt, then disconnect the alternator wire, stick a socket on the crank pulley bolt, turn clockwise. You can see if the engine will turn that way. But I don't think you could have siezed it, unless you were running no oil. Lets see what happens with your starter. Then we should check that sensor. Do you have a multimeter? after that checks out there are some electrical things to check.
__________________
-Mike ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165 Member #995 | My Locker | My New Locker Catch you next at: ? Auto-X ? |
#7
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Sorry I missed your post, I tested the crank, and it turns. Icall it my novice mistake what would happen to the altenator if I didn't disconnect it? I guess I should leave it to the pros that know the finer points. what elactrical tests could I do? Yes,I have a multimeter. On a sidenote, any idea what would cause a wet spot under my driverside floormats? Thanks for all the help I really appreciate it. I guess I shouldn't have cursed this car by calling it my project, if I wanted it to be a daily driver huh? Take care and thanks.
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#8
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Pull of the door sill piece then peel back the carpet...you may have a small hole somewhere letting water in. |
#9
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And here I thought it was just me... Yeah I played with that a little, I think I might have to pull the seats out to get a real good look at it. I was concerned about a heater core leak... I do get really excited when driving, I just didn't realize I was leaving a puddle. I've owned my SVX since Feb. and I have driven a total of 2 weeks, isn't that sad?
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#10
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They are FUN to drive. Last night my husband told me I should start driving my explorer again to save miles on my car, I hurried up and told him that if he bought me 12 SVX's like Earl has then I would drive 1 a month to save miles on them ALL! I have put 22 miles on my explorer in 3 months, since Ive had my car I have no urge to ever drive it again!
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Life begins around 70 MPH and stops when you dont see the flashing blue lights anymore! Scott & Audrey's Subaru SVX's 1995 Green 1992 Black |
#11
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well, to be honest... the alt should not be turned too much without being connected. I said disconnect it forgetting that you are not in a garage . In a shop most cars have the key turned to keep the wheels unlocked, which would make the electrical system active. So as a precaution, you would disconnect the alt or belt along with batt. to prevent any current from potentially powering the ecu and have it try to start as you turn the crank by hand!
Sorry about being blind to the situation. So how did the starter come back? If good, I would take a spade connector and plug it into the connector that goes to the starter (the small wire) Attach/touch the + multimeter probe/clip to the spade and the - one to the batt - terminal. Have an assistant turn the key and see what you are getting for voltage. You could also turn the key to the on position and use a (fused) wire to touch the + batt terminal and the other end to that spade the small connector would slip onto to see if it will start that way. That little connector is what tells the started to turn, it will only get power when the car is in neutral/park and the ignition is turned to start. If jumping works, then your problem is either the ignition switch, the neutral saftey switch, a relay, or the wires connecting them all. but if it reads fine and jumping does not help, I would pull the two cam sensors and compare resistance on the two. If they differ much, then one is likely to be bad. Sounds like the one on top of the block is the culprit. Get a replacment (new or used) and compare the resistance again. If they are close then slap em in and start her up.
__________________
-Mike ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165 Member #995 | My Locker | My New Locker Catch you next at: ? Auto-X ? Last edited by Speedklix; 10-31-2006 at 09:08 PM. |
#12
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When i bought my car, it had a code 29. When I replaced the sensor, the code went out, but the car didn't seem to run any differently.
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#13
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SpeedKlix,
No problem, I really respect your expertise and willingness to help!! When my wife got home, we took the starter to autozone and had it tested. It failed every single test. SO, on the spot I convinced the wife to shell out the hundred buck. Twenty minutes later it was installed and the Car turned over. I have never been so happy to hear that my stater failed its diagnostics. I was glad that the trouble shooting worked. Now on to those leaks!!! |
#14
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Awesome! Now on to those oil leaks
__________________
-Mike ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165 Member #995 | My Locker | My New Locker Catch you next at: ? Auto-X ? |
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