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#1
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c/v shaft
has anyone had any trouble removing or installing their c/v shafts?i've replaced the driver's side and it feels like it doesn't want to turn (brake is off as well).
i'm trying to change the pass. side now and i can't seem to get it in all the way so i tried to remove it again (maybe the clip is too stretched) and now it won't come out any suggestions on either problem? i've NEVER had this much difficulty changing c/v shafts! |
#2
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No - they should slide on and off the splines pretty easily.
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Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P. |
#3
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Which side is stuck? (tranny or hub)
The reman axle I installed had a seal on it that shouldn't have been there. I didn't realize that until I tried to rotate the wheel and it was tough to turn.
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#4
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the stuck side is the tranny end on the pass. side... come to think of it, the driver's side had a seal on both ends of it. that may be why that side is very difficult to turn.
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#5
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what i think got it stuck is the clip on the spindle. i think it may have slipped, wedged, or otherwise broke out of it's place when i slid the spindle into the tranny.
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#6
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You shouldn't need to pull the spline stub from the diff to change an axle. There is a roll pin that secures the axle to the spline stub. Normally one drives the pin out and the axle easily slides off of the splines. Reverse procedure to install.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#7
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i changed the tranny... there were no stubs. i used the stubs from my old c/v shafts
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#8
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no takers?
well, i'm pretty sure it's the circlip on the stub that is lodging me from going either way with it... how about the bearing? can i pull that while it's in the car or do i need special tools/presses for that? |
#9
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Hmmm...well this may not be the best way to do it but when i changed the entire axle the first time including the stubs I took a pry bar and found the right angle and just gave it a good pop and it came right out. I also had someone on the outer side of the axle by the wheel giving it a good tug...I have no clue if this is the correct way or if its bad for the axle/tranny but it worked for me.
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#10
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already tried that... it's how i would normally change a c/v shaft.
GOOD NEWS THOUGH! it came out. i removed the cover for the bearings and shook it while i hit it away from the tranny. as it turns out, the circlip was the culprit after all. it was smashed to the splines and wouldn't allow it to go either way i needed it to go. c/v shafts are done, the car rolls in the driveway now |
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