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  #1  
Old 08-04-2004, 06:33 AM
BoondockSVX
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A/C not all that cold.... it's kinda cold....

I tried straightening all the fins on the condensor, but it's kinda a lost cause. If I purchased some R-12 on ebay, and took it to a shop, could they recharge it? Or does this mean it's leaking somewhere?

Edit: Also, anyone tried this stuff?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...911118148&rd=1

Last edited by BoondockSVX; 08-04-2004 at 06:37 AM.
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  #2  
Old 08-04-2004, 03:26 PM
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Haven't tried that brand. It doesn't mention what R code it uses. I've tried RedTek R12a and it worked for a little while but stopped working again shortly after. I'm going to do a r134 conversion once I can afford it.
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  #3  
Old 08-04-2004, 04:53 PM
BoondockSVX
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That won't help you. R134a is a crappy coolant. R-12 is a much more effficient refridgerant, with the same hardware it'll be much colder with R-12 (freon). You must have a leak somewhere.
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  #4  
Old 08-04-2004, 05:10 PM
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Is it a matter of the AC just not getting very cold, or is it clearly turning off sometimes?
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  #5  
Old 08-04-2004, 05:44 PM
BoondockSVX
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It's just not all that cold. A year or so ago it was much colder... now it's just.... kinda refreshing, but it's not exactly going to perk anyone's nipples if you catch my drift.
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  #6  
Old 08-04-2004, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Earthworm
Haven't tried that brand. It doesn't mention what R code it uses. I've tried RedTek R12a and it worked for a little while but stopped working again shortly after. I'm going to do a r134 conversion once I can afford it.
How much would a conversion be?
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  #7  
Old 08-04-2004, 09:14 PM
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I've had the same problem, but over a much shorter time span. The car had no freon when I bought it, so in March I had it charged with R-12 (the good stuff) rather than paying for a conversion for an inferior coolant. Supposedly, a leak check is done before they try charging it. At some point, the cooling efficiency started to decease, and by July the A/C's output was so low I wasn't sure if it was cooling at all, but the compressor was still coming on. Since the local place with the cheapest freon doesn't do repairs, I took it to another place to have a diagnostic. I told them to call me before starting any repairs, but when I did call, they said they found no problems and no leaks, but it was low, so they recharged it. I had them suck it back out, since their R-12 is 2X as expensive. I called back the guy who charged it originally, and he said I probably have a leak that's too small to detect, and the only thing I can do is have it recharged and wait until the leak gets big enough to detect! (Talk about poor options!) He also mentioned that some cars' A/C's have a shut off that kicks in when the freon pressure gets too low. That means that you may still have half your freon in the system when it stops blowing cold air altogether. *I don't know if the SVX A/C's have this feature.* But if they do, I lost any reserve I may have had when that other place took their unauthorized charge back out, because they left the system empty. This is something to keep in mind if you have a diagnostic done. The A/C was back to full strength after I did have it charged! The leak was still too small to be detected when I had it charged. But when it's running there are often times when I smell a strong, sweet-ish odor. I suspect it maybe the leaking freon, but I have no idea what freon smells like, if it even has an odor. I know it would not be a good thing to inhale. When I smell this mystery odor, I usually switch the climate control onto "vent" for a while, and when I switch back to A/C, it's better. Unfortunately, it wasn't long until my A/C belt broke, and that was due to the belt's idler seizing up. (It was preceded by squealing sound when I started the car up, about 20 minutes before the breakage.) A new idler cost $70; my mechanic could only get it from a dealership. He showed me the old idler; that little pulley was sure messed up. The metal near the center hole was bent, and I could see the bearings inside. I got my car back yesterday, and I've got ice-cold A/C again...for now.
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  #8  
Old 08-05-2004, 07:58 AM
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When I bought my car at 104,000+ miles, the hose between the condensor and compressor was porous; that is, there were dozens of tiny pinholes through which refrigerant was ever-so-slowly seeping. As I read of these hard-to-find AC leaks, I wonder in how many instances this hose may be the culprit.

My local garage upgraded my system to R-134 when they replaced this hose. Can't pass along a dollar figure as I don't have the receipt with me, but apparently the only hardware required to make the change is a filter/dryer (needed anytime the system is opened), which was in-stock at NAPA and cost, as I recall, in the neighborhood of fifteen bucks. The AC has worked great all summer. I've found that using the CIRC feature really helps hasten cooling when I first get rolling on really warm afternoon.

As to that "sweetish" odor, I've noticed an odd, musty aroma coming from the vents on occasion when I start the car, and surmise that this is caused by undrained condensation gone sour. Whatever; I doubt it's leaking refrigerant.


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  #9  
Old 08-05-2004, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by BoondockSVX
It's just not all that cold. A year or so ago it was much colder... now it's just.... kinda refreshing, but it's not exactly going to perk anyone's nipples if you catch my drift.
upgrade your GF to one with perkier nipples. problem solved.
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  #10  
Old 08-05-2004, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by IggDawg
upgrade your GF to one with perkier nipples. problem solved.
Sometimes a simple solution is indeed best...

dcb
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  #11  
Old 08-05-2004, 07:16 PM
BoondockSVX
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Quote:
Originally posted by dcarrb
As to that "sweetish" odor, I've noticed an odd, musty aroma coming from the vents on occasion when I start the car, and surmise that this is caused by undrained condensation gone sour.
Too fix that just push 'vent', and "high" about 2 minutes before you stop. It airs out the moisture, and no smelly sock smell.
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