Door locks stopped working

[svxistentialist]

Tony

In the USA book I have no relay is shown. Also it is interlinked to a security system as OE.

Maybe yours is the same, but I know the JDM system is a little different. I think the JDM has an infra red locking system which closes everything, I just don't think it immobilises the engine.

Anyway, on the security system schematic, there are no door relays shown.

As Phil says, there is an actuator for both doors, but not the boot, this is a simple key and cable operated lock.[Which you know, having crawled out there ]

Both the door locks are connected to the door timer, where Phil says it is, and that in turn has two wires connecting to pins 6 and 7 of the security module. You should probably try putting live and ground to the actuator, just to check it's working. They probably are, unusual for two components to fail together.

If the actuators are OK, then you might look to the door timer, which is hard to get at. However, connection 3 on this door lock timer is connected to the power. Strangely, the diagram shows two fuses on this line, connected in series. I say strange, because you would expect the 15 amp one to blow first with an overload, so what good is the 45 amp one?? Beats me.

Check them before you look for the timer. They are described as follows;

15 Amp No 13 contained in the fuse box. This will be in the driver's footwell, fairly close to the timer [which is behind the purple ecsaine panel on the passenger side]

And in the engine bay, 45 Amp SBF 5 in the main box.

Check these are not blown before you investigate further.

Joe

[lee]

Originally posted by TonyShaleUK
Dry as a bone! All parts in place, wipers appear pristine.

Also checked the fuse and that is ok.

Is there a relay in the circuit somewhere?

Tony

Tony, re: my earlier post. By any chance did you look closely at the thinner wire of the three inside? If my suggestion was correct, it will be slightly outside the normal track (you should be able to tell by the wear marks). What happens is that instead of "jumping" a little ramp (actually there are two ramps on the gear wheel), the wiper moves to the outside and the circuit doesn't go "open" like it should when passing over the ramp. I attribute it to fatigue of the wiper wire, resetting the gear and simply moving the wiper back in position will work for a lock cycle or two (maybe) but it will eventually do this to you again. Only real fix is to find a replacement wiper (I have no idea where), or buy a whole new door lock assembly (here in the US its $125+).

Thanks for all of the input.

Advice to everyone owning an SVX - make sure that you keep your weight down, 'cos there isn't much space to climb out of the trunk!!

I've checked the 15a fuse and that is ok. I'll check the 45a at the weekend. Some questions:

1) Where is the door timer and how do I know what to look for?!

2) On the solenoid there are 3 connectors - which one and which pins do I put the power across to check operation?

I'll try these out at the weekend and check the spring contacts for correct seating.

Thanks all

Tony

[lee]

I can't speak to Euro or JDM model, but on the US (MY92), the door lock timer is located behind the glove box, near the security module. It is bolted to the same beam as the security module and is a black box of dimensions (in mm) of 80X50X30. On the outside it actually says Door Lock Timer and gives the part number as 88201 PA010 484583. The end with the electrical connection easily pops off and the circuit card can be withdrawn (no screws or otherwise secured).

Inside you will find two 12v electrical relays (NEC MR301). One relay controls the driver's door, the other the passenger.

I can provide more info if you like - the box is sitting next to my keyboard as I type. I replaced mine thinking it would fix the issue when it was really the electrical wiper wires as mentioned before.

Thanks for the info. Sounds pretty idiot proof to find!

Hope the weather is good at the weekend!

Haven't had a chance to pull the timer relays yet.

Checked the wipers in the control unit. I compared the drivers' and passengers and they are identical - and in the running tracks as described.

On the drivers unit, of the four conectors that lead into the motor unit, which are the two that take the power. I would like to check the operation with the unit in my hand. It looks like the lower two are the ones, but I don't want to blow anything!

If I power the unit like this, will it just undertake one revolution or will it continue and potentially stop in the wrong position.

Thanks

Looked for the timer box - I assume on the drivers side on the Jap cars Joe? - but couldn't see anything obvious. Maybe it's still behind the govebox in these cars. I'll check.

Tried putting power to the bottom 2 connectors of both the solenoids, but nothing at all on either of them , so there must be another trick - can't believe that they've both failed!

[thumper_svx]

I know this has been mentioned... but I once had this problem with my 94. Actually turned out to be the central door lock switch in the center console... had shorted out and was "holding it locked". Those lock solenoids can exert a lot of pressure that's hard to overcome with the moulded lock pulls on the door.

Anyway, definitely something to look at. In my case I didn't have to exit through the trunk... I just held the switch in the opposite position (open) until I opened the door, then I was able to get the door open before it locked again. Then I just replaced the switch... voila.

[SSSVX]

sorry no opinions to help...but just want to ask,
why did u need to get out from the trunk?
that sounded so cute or funny? (take pics?)

but why didn't u get out from the sunroof or front windows?
if that's happened to me, i wouldn't be able to get out
from my trunk. my trunk is usually not empty. i would try
from my sunroof or front-windows...

hope u can solve your problem soon. if that's me, if all
fuses/relays look okay, i probably will check the power
actuators...

I got out of the window first, but then couldn't make the car secure cos the window was open!! So had to open the trunk, then get back in the car to close the window, then exit via the trunk! Monty Python ain't got nuthin on this sketch!!

So 2 rules for owning an SVX:

1) Stay slim so you can squeeze under the rear windshield wiper motor
2) Keep the boot empty!!

[b3lha]

The timer unit is on the passenger side in JDM cars you have to remove the glovebox (20 screws!) and look up underneath.

I found it when I was connecting the pulse converter to the cruise control unit. The two units are side by side and I picked the wrong one first time around.

I was a bit confused because the speedo was right and the speed limiter was gone, but the cruise control still wouldn't engage above 70. Then I noticed that the central locking had stopped working and I figured out I'd patched the door lock timer instead of the cruise control unit.

IIRC, the door lock timer is the one where the plug is visible. The cruise control is the one where the plug is on the back out of sight.

Phil.

Had a look behind the glovebox on Sunday. There was a black box and above that 2 relays sitting there. Wonder of Japanese design to stick 'em there!

Is there any way of testing the lock units 'in my hand' by applying power to see whether it is the unit or the relays before I take the car to bits?!!

[lee]

The system (US market anyway) uses a pulsed signal across the motor/switch ensemble. If your version is wired the same you should be able to take a jumper wire from the + pole of the battery and momentarily touch the poles on the switch. Note you have to have a ground on the appropriate pin. If the door locks are working it will jump back & forth (locked to unlocked) with alternate touches on the pins other than ground. One clue to same/different status is the US driver's door has an extra wire that is used to signal the door lock timer what to do about the passenger door..

anyway, see attached for the diagram.

Great, thanks.

This weekend's job!

[dcarrb]

Originally posted by svxistentialist
...so exiting via the boot is not that strange!!

Funny; my Dad used to call the car trunk the boot. And the accelerator pedal he referred to as the foot-feed. He's from (very) rural Georgia roots.

Now, back to your topic...


dcb