Experiencing two problems. (tad long)

I have owned my SVX for 3+ years now and have had two seemingly separate problems show up that I would really appreciate some advice/theories on. The dealership has been stumped by this for the 5 months now and I am trying to arm myself with some more information. I apologize in advance for the length of the post .

Problem 1: In Dec. of 2003 I started having the (stop) lamp start intermittently coming on in the dash when I depressed the brake pedal. This was also usually accompanied by a feeling of softness in the brakes. I was told the Master Cylinder needed to be replaced. Since this has been done, upon starting the car I now get an intermittent (stop) lamp flash when I depress the brake pedal, which usually goes away if I drive the car for a distance of a couple blocks or more. The brakes again feel "mushy" but firm up as I drive the couple blocks.

The dealership has been unable to repeat this problem since Feb. 2004.

Problem 2: In about the same timeframe as Problem 1, I noticed what I will call a rattle coming from the engine. At first the noise was barely perceptible, but then it soon became louder and associated with a loss of power in the car. At the same time as the dealership was working on my master cylinder, they were supposed to address this problem. At this time I was told they found loose exhaust shields, they had been tightened, all should be well. All was not well. The noise persisted, happened increasingly often, and was louder then before, also robbing me of seemingly more acceleration at times. To the point that now when I accelerate fully with the gas pedal to the floor, and the POWER mode engages, the car begins to stutter and become unable to accelerate or maintain its current speed.

Though I had been talking with the Dealership through all of this, the stuttering (which happened for the first time in the middle of trying to pass another vehicle) was the last straw. I have since had the mechanics in my car, driven them around, pointed the noise out, caused the stuttering, and am being told they think its Crank Shaft Sensor B (error code being thrown).

I had seen some recent discussion of Crank Shaft Sensor A on the site and I learned a lot more then I knew about them, but I would ask if this seems likely to be the cause of what I am experiencing?

I again apologize for the length of this post, and appreciate anyone's help who made it through it all and has any input. I hope that what I have said made some sort of sense as I am learning as I go here

Thanks again!

[immortal_suby]

If it is throwing an error code then you need to get that part changed out and go from there. It sounds like a dangerous problem if you're losing power at the wrong time.

The stop lamp erratic behavior is strange. I have seen it happen when brake fluid is too low in the reservoir. But if it is only happening when the car is cold I can't explain it.

The car is back in the shop on this coming Friday to have both the sensor replaced and the master cylinder re-replaced. I am also having the mechanic ride along for a bit to see if we can duplicate the stop lamp behavior

I have really been noticing the stop light comes on consistently it appears, and for a much longer duration then a couple blocks, if I drive the car for 20-30 minutes at highway speed and then park it for 30-60 minutes and restart.

I am more just asking these questions because it seems they keep missing things along the way and would like this to be the last time in the shop for a bit

Thanks again for all and any help

[ensteele]

First - welcome to the site. Hope we can help with your problem.

Second - don't worry about the length of your post if that is what it takes to explain the problem. That is why we are here - to help each other.

Last, have you bled your brakes? I have heard that when there is too much moisture in the lines or the fluid is old that it can do strange things. Also if there is air in the lines, but that would not just start to happen. I am not an expert on this, but that came to mind first.

Keep us posted with what you find out. Thanks

[SVXer95]

If they are replacing the MC, the fluid should be completely bled afterwards. Hopefully, this will solve all of you stop lamp problems. Keep us updated. BTW, Welcome!

[HighwayUFO]

Ok, I may be able to help. Does the Stop Lamp light come on or does the brake light come on(as in, if the e-brake were engaged)?

If it is the Stop Lamp check your brake light connections behind the little plastic covers in the corners of your trunk. I have the same problem with my brake light coming on. My brakes are fine and all brake fluid has been flushed and bled, yet mine still comes on. I had it checked out by both Subaru and a local trusted brake shop, and they are baffled on why it still comes on.

As far as your shudder problem, I, unfortunately have nothing to offer you.

Welcome and get the SVX well again.

Keith

Thanks for the replies and the welcomes!

The light coming on is definitely the stop lamp not the brake lamp.

Also, the brakes were bled in January when the MC was first replaced, in February when I took it back saying something was still up, and again tomorrow when I have the MC re-replaced again.

If that doesn't stop the lamp from coming on I will start taking apart my trunk

[dcarrb]

Originally posted by civic_slayer

If it is the Stop Lamp check your brake light connections behind the little plastic covers in the corners of your trunk. I have the same problem with my brake light coming on. My brakes are fine and all brake fluid has been flushed and bled, yet mine still comes on. I had it checked out by both Subaru and a local trusted brake shop, and they are baffled on why it still comes on.

I had a problem in another Subaru with the BRAKE light illuminating. Fiddling with the wiring connection to the fluid level sensor on the master cylinder solved that for good.

As to the STOP lamp, that's (supposed to be) informing you that a brake light bulb is blown. I'd check for that first, then for a loose bulb, corrosion in the socket, or the like.

[UberRoo]

If the light comes on only when applying the brakes, it's almost certainly electrical. If it stays on, it's usually a low fluid warning, but there may be other sensors tied to that light such as a proportioning valve.

I had electrical problems with my stop lamp for a while. I went to town tearing apart the tail lights searching for loose connections, bad grounds, bad bulbs and the like. It turns out that the plug to the switch on the brake pedal was loose. It wasn't loose enough to cause the brake lights not to work, but it did cause the warning light to go on - sometimes. Aside from low brake fluid, the most likely cause is a bad connection somewhere in the brake light wires.

First check all the connections in the trunk lid, and see if that helps. If it doesn't, then replace all the brake bulbs and check for any rusty parts which may cause bad grounds. Check for loose connections under the dash too. A wiring diagram should tell you how many connectors there are and give you some idea where they're located. It should also tell you what else is tied to the brake warning light.

One problem down, one to go.

Thanks for all the replies regarding the brake problem. If had not been for your suggestions of checking the electrical we would still be stumped.

I took the car in on Friday and after a day of trying they were again unable to replicate the problem, called me, and told me to come pick up the car. Before leaving I asked the guy if indeed a brake light out or a short could also be causing the behavior and should I take a look in my trunk. I was told that was a great idea. In a moment of poetic justice the stop lamp of course did its thing as I started the car in the Dealership lot. I ran in, pulled the guy out to my car, and thankfully was finally able to reproduce the behavior. Since we had just had our discussion of shorts and a brake light being out he looked at the back of the car... outer right taillight is out. I smacked the light cover with him depressing the brake, light came back on and the stop lamp went out.

Bulb's contact points were shot.

Thanks again to those that said to look in that direction!!!

[UberRoo]

Glad you got it fixed.

Next Problem:

Immortal_suby is absolutely right. First fix anything that generates a code. It may very well not be the problem, but I'd feel like a complete idiot if I troubleshot everything else only to find out that the ECU really did know what the problem was.

Originally posted by immortal_suby
If it is throwing an error code then you need to get that part changed out and go from there.

The crankshaft sensor is extremely important. I'm not sure if our cars have crank sensors, cam sensors, both, or how many of each; but if one of them is out of whack, that could throw a wrench into the whole system. Basically, without that sensor the ECU doesn't know when to set off the spark plugs. It also doesn't know when to deliver fuel, how much to deliver, how much to advance the spark, and certainly a handful of other things. That's one helluva hiccup. Something like that would definitely cause a strong shudder, rattling, and possibly do something very nasty if the ECU got too confused.

Did you try smacking the engine? That seemed to work for the other problem. I'll have to remember to smack the next part that gives me problems.

I definitely agree on getting the error code fixed. I am just waiting to get a call back from the dealership on it.

I am being told that they get the error code, but some page is missing out of some manual and they have a call in to Subaru Tech Support regarding it.

From reading other peoples' discussions here I am a bit baffled at what seems to be taking them so long.