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#1
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Fluid packing on engine block surfaces?
How do you interprete the fluid packing directions in the FSM for the engine block surfaces?
What are all the arrows around the bearings? Should I put the fluid packing only around the upper row of the main bolts? See attachement Thanks, Tapani |
#2
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Re: Fluid packing on engine block surfaces?
I would say that those arrows are pointing out where not to put the fluid packing.
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'92 SVX LS Pearl White - 6mt |
#3
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Re: Fluid packing on engine block surfaces?
Do not allow fluid packing to jut into O-ring grooves,
oil passages, bearing grooves, etc- Bill
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Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker |
#4
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Re: Fluid packing on engine block surfaces?
See the thick flex (?) plate
Getting ready for the ARP studs to arrive. /T |
#5
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Re: Fluid packing on engine block surfaces?
Make sure you put plans in to pull things back apart to retorque the ARP studs at the proper intervals. I've seen them lose torque overnight on a motor build. They have specific instructions about retorquing after a certain number of miles or warmup cycles (i forget exactly what it is) which on a subaru means pulling the valve covers and the cams to get to them.
This is why the OEM bolts are still preferred by many engine builders around my area. They are torque to yield bolts that stretch when torqued in the proper sequence. As the head gaskets settle the bolts stay tight because of the stretch in them. |
#6
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Re: Fluid packing on engine block surfaces?
Thanks for your tip - I do not quite follow your reasoning, though.
I would tend to believe that the only thing which will settle is the gasket. This should be much less with an MLS type than the old OEM type. "Stretch" bolts are used to even out the clamping force - when you load them above their yield point they will all have the same force. This will allow for the differences between the short and long bolts and any variation/errors in tightening them down. BTW, I was not aware the SVX OEM bolts were of this type - if they are, they are "one life" and should be replaced every time you open them. Kind regrads, Tapani |
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