Trouble Starting

cdigerlando · #1 12-18-2010, 09:40 AM

Having trouble starting the new rebuilt motor. I'm only running about 150 rpms at startup. Seems a bit low. Any idea what you guys are running normally at starter crankup?

oab_au · #2 12-18-2010, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdigerlando

Having trouble starting the new rebuilt motor. I'm only running about 150 rpms at startup. Seems a bit low. Any idea what you guys are running normally at starter crankup?

Hi Chuck, do you mean that the starter is turning the engine too slow. Like the engine is tight.?

Harvey.

cdigerlando · #3 12-19-2010, 10:46 AM

Yes. I've been concerned about the bearing resistance. The builder thinks it is perfect, but the starting revs on the motor are about 150 rpm which seems low??? Any idea what yours are? I should still be able to get my cylinders to fire thought. Very annoying. The valves seem tight. The cylinders pull and push air properly. I'm making good spark. Fuel is good. I'm stumped.

Jonnycash · #4 12-19-2010, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdigerlando

Yes. I've been concerned about the bearing resistance. The builder thinks it is perfect, but the starting revs on the motor are about 150 rpm which seems low??? Any idea what yours are? I should still be able to get my cylinders to fire thought. Very annoying. The valves seem tight. The cylinders pull and push air properly. I'm making good spark. Fuel is good. I'm stumped.

Good compression on all cylinders?

SVXMAN2001 · #5 12-19-2010, 07:41 PM

I am at a loss as to what it could be, but the manual indicates that normal idle rpm is about 700 +/- 50.

cdigerlando · #6 12-19-2010, 08:01 PM

The motor was tested before it was sent to me. judging from the amount of vacuum it pulled when I manually turned the motor, I think everything is sealing up pretty well. Even if the compression is off a bit it should still start.

The RPM at 700 is idle. I'm asking for the rpm when you are just running the starter and the engine does not start. I guess you would either have to have a problem with your car or disconnect the fuel pump to test this. I just thought someone on this forum would know off the top of their head.

Cam · #7 12-19-2010, 08:26 PM

Are you absolutely positive that you plugged everything in when the engine went in the car? Double check the connectors are all mated. Have you verified fuel and spark?

cdigerlando · #8 12-20-2010, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

Are you absolutely positive that you plugged everything in when the engine went in the car? Double check the connectors are all mated. Have you verified fuel and spark?

Yes. Checked spark. I'm thinking of switching from iridium plugs to copper plugs if they are making them for the SVX. I have fuel and have checked that the injectors are firing with a mechanic's stethescope. Next step is to pull the fuel rail and verify that fuel is spraying out of the injectors properly. I have pleanty of rail pressure. I may play with the pressure settings a bit. If memory serves I believe our car runs 32 psi stock. I'd like to run more with the Walbro pump/550 cc/min nismos.

I also hand cranked the motor a bit after installing the timing belt, with the intakes and exhaust taped off. Lots of vacuum on the intake and pressure at the exhaust. poped the tape every time.

One think I'm thinking that it might be is flooding. I may drop the rail pressure and try again. My plugs did not seem fuel fouled though. But to be honest they did not even look like they fired.

cdigerlando · #9 12-20-2010, 11:26 AM

I still just really need to know about how fast this engine rotates with the starter and no firing. Any help would be appreciated.

oab_au · #10 12-23-2010, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdigerlando

I still just really need to know about how fast this engine rotates with the starter and no firing. Any help would be appreciated.

Chuck ,I don"t think it really matters how fast it rotates,,,,I mean, how fast does a Harley crank rotate when you kick start it?

As long as it has a compression cycle, and there is fuel in there, and the spark arrives at the right time, it will fire. If it is not rotating fast enough, it will just kickback.

You say it has spark and the injectors are firing, we assume that the timing is right. I would try starting it for a few times, then stop pull a plug, see if it is wet. If it is not wet, there is no fuel injecting. If it is wet then there is either no spark at the right time, none at all, or the fuel is not burnable.

So I would check that the plug is sparking at the right time, and that the fuel that is being injected, is not too old.

Harvey.

cdigerlando · #11 12-27-2010, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oab_au

Chuck ,I don"t think it really matters how fast it rotates,,,,I mean, how fast does a Harley crank rotate when you kick start it?

As long as it has a compression cycle, and there is fuel in there, and the spark arrives at the right time, it will fire. If it is not rotating fast enough, it will just kickback.

You say it has spark and the injectors are firing, we assume that the timing is right. I would try starting it for a few times, then stop pull a plug, see if it is wet. If it is not wet, there is no fuel injecting. If it is wet then there is either no spark at the right time, none at all, or the fuel is not burnable.

So I would check that the plug is sparking at the right time, and that the fuel that is being injected, is not too old.

Harvey.

Yes. We are trying this. We pulled the injectors. The gas was new, but mixed with some old gas in the bottom of the tank. The timing and compression should be good. I'm going to check the compression this week. I'm anxious to get this started. This is the built motor with forged internals and DI sleeves. Ported heads and the ECU tune cams. Hope everything works

cdigerlando · #12 12-27-2010, 06:02 PM

Figured it out. My valves seem to be sticking open. May be a problem with a recent cam grind I had done, and the intake valves not seating completely. Intake stroke seems very tight, so I think the exhausts are good

Ug!!! Talking to Mike to see what we need to do about the cams.

cdigerlando · #13 01-11-2011, 01:09 PM

Haven't pulled the cams yet. Mike seems to think that may lifters need to be rebuilt. We'll see. Once I pull the lifters, I'll check to see if the valves are holding pressure. If they are, then it is just a matter of determining if the lifters have enough travel with the larger base circle of the cams. Getting the lifters rebuilt will only cost a bit over $120. It is just the time to pull everything apart including the timing belts and remove all of this crap. Seems like this is never ending. If the lifters don't squeeze enough or the valves to seal completely, I'm going to be pissed. Bottom line, I hope this is it. This project has really worn on me.