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#1
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Subject changed: Do I need a new steering rack?
My mechanic was going to replace my rack boots. But he says he tried but couldn't because he needed a "special tool" to complete the task. Does this sound right? Is there a special tool that he needs? If so what is it exactly? ANd how do I get it? From Subaru I'm guessing?
Now it's been about 2 months and I wonder now if I need to replace my entire rack, although I havn't felt anything wrong with my steering. What do you guys think? PS. These boots that I received from the dealer are plastic and seem to be an upgrade from the rubber originals. Anyone else find this to be true?
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'92 Touring Ebony Last edited by curlykicker; 11-20-2003 at 04:14 AM. |
#2
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No special tool for the boots themselves - they are held in place with a piece of wire. Replacing them is fairly involved, it requires removing the tie rods - you do need a puller for that (and a good one!). I would run away from a mechanic who does not have a tie rod puller.
I would get the tie rods themselves checked - they go bad occasionally. The new factory boots are plastic, the old ones in my car were also plastic - but I don't know for sure if they were original. Most likely they were. Rack boots do not seem to be a common problem on the SVX - are you sure it is not CV/driveshaft boots? |
#3
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Yeah I'm sure because I just had those replaced by the same mechanic
I guess he didn't have the tie rod puller, something I don't doubt because he works out of his garage How urgent is it to get the rack boots replaced? In other words, after one starts to tear, about how long do I have until the entire rack should be replaced?
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'92 Touring Ebony Last edited by curlykicker; 11-14-2003 at 12:30 AM. |
#4
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Also, is it true that I'm going to have to get a four wheel alignment after the boot is replaced?
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'92 Touring Ebony |
#5
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With a torn boot you will be getting dirt on the rack shaft - the dirt is abrasive and will scratch the shaft. Scratches will help ATF escape the high pressure chambers - you'll get leaks. How long - don't know, but racks are expensive. If yours is good (not leaking externally, does not vibrate when you turn wheels) don't risk it.
Yes, toe-in adjustment is recommended after disassembly of steering components. If you mechanic is careful, and will be putting back the same tie rods, he could count number of turns it takes to remove a ball joint on the end of tie rod and put it back with the same number of turns. Assuming he keeps the tie rod from turning. |
#6
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Quote:
So the question is, should I order a whole new rack? Also, has anyone ever replaced the bushings with aluminum or higher grade rubber? Because I've heard that this might increase the steering response, under the same principal of urethane sway bar endlink bushings.
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'92 Touring Ebony |
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