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  #16  
Old 04-26-2007, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor
This statement has just been proven incorrect. Tom is no fool.

What is more full race engines are built with increased tolerances, one of the important reasons being, the lack of opportunity to run them in.

I'm really not sure if you're claiming that Tom now builds race engines, or if he is a factory.
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  #17  
Old 04-26-2007, 11:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy_pilot
^^^What he said.

And you have to remember these are aftermarket built engines we're talking about here, they weren't put through the paces in a factory engine dyno before being installed in a car. The first time they crank, it will likely be in car.

Which is why it is so important to break the engine in, in the car, correctly.

One more point. It is a commonly accepted fact that breaking an engine in with synthetic oil is bad, as the synthetic is 'too' slippery. Yet some cars come factory with Mobil 1 synthetic. Why is this?
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  #18  
Old 04-27-2007, 12:37 AM
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It's your belief and your choice.

What does the SVX owner manual say?


I personally might like the "harder" break-in method more.

I once visited the BMW factory when I was back home. I still remembered how the workers demonstrated the new engine to us....they just revved it up to redline . . .
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  #19  
Old 04-27-2007, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivemusicnow
I'm really not sure if you're claiming that Tom now builds race engines, or if he is a factory.
Listen, I am not claiming to know everything about building engines. I do know how things work and I have built a 350 for my my old truck. I have also rebuilt a detroit deisel for my father's boat (complete flip and stick). I know my way around motors and spending 3500 in rods, bearings, pistons and a compelte valvetrain, I am going to follow a tried a true proceedure that I know works. Not insulting anyone else's opinion unless they want to pay for all my parts and labor and beat it as soon as I am done for themselves

Tom
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  #20  
Old 04-27-2007, 08:46 AM
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I am not trying to insult you in any way. I respect your knowledge and devotion to the community. You've made a lot of progress with SVXes in the past 2-3 years.

The SVX community is an interesting thing. You've proved yourself to be knowledgeable and have the guts to actually DO things, which is something that sticks out to most people.

That said, I know my way around an engine as well. I also understand the thought of 'preservation' of a large investment. I have an equal amount of money invested into my own engine, and the thought of "beating" on it does seem a bit out of whack, but it's been proven to me that higher cylinder pressures seat rings better, which produces more power, and a better engine.

But in the end, it all comes down to what you trust and feel is right.
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  #21  
Old 04-27-2007, 12:02 PM
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I am not saying I will keep my boost gauge stuck in vaccum either, im just not going to do any full throttle/boost runs until the engine is, in my mind, broken in properly.

Tom
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  #22  
Old 06-08-2007, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivemusicnow
Also, the worst advice I've heard is to wait 1000 miles before changing the oil. thats 950 miles too many! after those first 50 miles the majority of the piston ring to cylinder bore has been "mated" for lack of a better term. all the tiny metal shavings that this creates are already in the oil. You want to get that out as soon as possible.
I will vouch for this one. We rebuilt my Justy engine and we noticed a lot of metal in the oil after only a very short time. This lasted for 2 oil changes.
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  #23  
Old 06-08-2007, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthworm
I will vouch for this one. We rebuilt my Justy engine and we noticed a lot of metal in the oil after only a very short time. This lasted for 2 oil changes.
if i buy a new car under 100 miles, i'd do a quick oil change too...

but what do you think/say a lot cars such as mercedes benzs, porsches etc recommend do oil change every 10 or even 13k miles since new,,, they still last a long time...
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  #24  
Old 06-08-2007, 10:43 PM
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Without new cams and lifters the only real "break-in" is to seat the rings. If you break it in like you're driving Miss Daisy then you will not create enough pressure behind the rings to properly seat them. It's critical to put a load on the engine within the first 20 miles. If not, the rough surface of the cylinders, after honing, will be smoothed and your rings will not seat properly. End result, poor rings seal, less than optimal compression, blow-by, poor performance, poor fuel economy. Nothing like spending $3,000 to rebuild an engine that runs like crap.

Bearings do not get broken in. If they are shedding material after initial startup they are either starved for oil or not within tolerance. Either too tight or too loose. Plastigauge is not a reliable way to measure tolerance.

To be exact when checking bearing clearance you need inside and outside micrometers that measure to 10thousandths of an inch. Install the bearings, either in mains or rods. Install and properly torque caps (block halves when measuring SVX mains), without crank installed. Use an inside micrometer to measure the bearing diameter. Now measure the corresponding crank journal. Subtract crank measurement from bearing measurement and you have your clearance. Clearance is pretty tight 2-15 10thousandths on the mains and 8-18 10thousandths on the rods.

Changing the oil after a rebuild is essential. Also, do not use synthetic oil until break-in is complete. Synthetic oil will interfere with the friction necessary to seat the rings. After it's all broken-in and there's no more material from the rings showing up in the oil, use the best oil you can afford.

As for new cars not requiring oil changes right away, the engines are already broken in and all the ring and cylinder material is already cleaned out. This wasn't always the case. Back in the day they built up the engines, started them up to see if they worked and left it up to the owner to break them in....the wrong way.

Last edited by Myetball; 06-08-2007 at 10:47 PM.
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  #25  
Old 06-09-2007, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSSVX
if i buy a new car under 100 miles, i'd do a quick oil change too...

but what do you think/say a lot cars such as mercedes benzs, porsches etc recommend do oil change every 10 or even 13k miles since new,,, they still last a long time...
Yeah, like myetball said, all of these cars engines are either dyno before the engines are dropped into the car, or are "abused" after the fact. Every Porsche made has about 100 miles on it just from track abuse AT THE FACTORY. They then change the oil.

Just like the cars that come "from the factory" with synthetic oils, the engine are already broken in using a normal oil and then they change it to the synthetic as a marketing ploy. The synthetic oil company (Mobil 1) basically gives the oil to the company for free because it "encourages" every end consumer typically buy their product.
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  #26  
Old 06-10-2007, 10:13 PM
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These engines are just like a woman no break-in needed, If their's metal in the crankcase after you drive it then something was to tight when you built it.By now the particles are embedded in the inserts and they will scar the crank.. Let alone the rings.. The right clearance will not cause metal in the crankcase so has to be that noticeable, it might have some shine to the oil but that is natural..Change it after 1000 miles 5w30 and go for it...no additives needed... Oh i know all won't agree but hey it is a world of many different thinking...so do what you all think best...... To each their own...
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  #27  
Old 06-10-2007, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivemusicnow
Yeah, like myetball said, all of these cars engines are either dyno before the engines are dropped into the car, or are "abused" after the fact. Every Porsche made has about 100 miles on it just from track abuse AT THE FACTORY. They then change the oil.

Just like the cars that come "from the factory" with synthetic oils, the engine are already broken in using a normal oil and then they change it to the synthetic as a marketing ploy. The synthetic oil company (Mobil 1) basically gives the oil to the company for free because it "encourages" every end consumer typically buy their product.
make sense. i now understand why they abused the engines when i visited the bmw factory. don't know when i'll be able to afford a new mercedes or bmw or porsche...and can do oil change every 13k...
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  #28  
Old 06-11-2007, 02:17 AM
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Since we are dealing with a japanese "muscle/ concept car" Why not break it in as you would have with a rebuilt old skool big/ small block. I remember when i rebuilt my Boss 69 302 mustang, all the hot rodders told me to break it in as if the same way you were going to drive it. Not saying to redline ever shift but its good to drive it the "normal" way you would drive any of your other cars... Dont't take it easy just drive it If your confident with your engine build then it should be fine... This leans more towards to the hard break in... But to my knowledge, no one has ever blown a hole in their block instead thrown a few rods.
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