4.11 swap in progress.

[crazyhorse]

I'm getting ready to swap in a 4.11 Impreza tranny. Unfortunately I don't have the rear diff, so I'll be in FWD mode awhile.

What I have:
'96 SVX 3.54 with blown Hi-Gear clutches.

What's going in:
'96 Impreza 4eat 4.11

What I have to swap from the SVX trans to the Imp trans:
Torque converter, after a flush of course. Can't have the brown nasties infiltrating my clean fluid.

OK, now I'm planning on removing the rear half of my driveshaft, until I can source a 4.11 LSD. It may be awhile, as funds are a bit limited due to my being unemployed.

Now for my questions
1. I need to know what size the axle nuts are, so I can get the proper socket
2. Any tricks to getting the axles out? I'm guessing I separate the knuckles at the strut.
3. Will I need to separate the ball joints as well?
4. Are the dowel pins in the engine, or the trans? They're in the trans right now.
5. Any secret handshake mojo that will make my life easier?

Thanks in advance for your help.

[huck369]

Paul, if you don't want to mess up the alignment, just unbolt the 3 bolts in the lower control arm that hold the ball joints, then the knuckle will just swing out far enough to get the axle loose.

As for removing the rear drive shaft, that works great IF your SVX has a 2 piece driveshaft, as some come with a CV joint in the middle which is not removable, which means you won't be able to leave the driveshaft out...so check into that pretty early in case you want to source a 2 piece one (I think you can use the front section of an auto Legacy in it, but might have to modify the carrier bearing mount some.

I wanna say the axle nut is a 32mm...but that is from memory....should be the same as on your Legacy.

Dowel pins can bein either the engine of the tranny, but not both so just make sure they are only in one or the other before you try to wresle the beast up in there.

Do NOT force the TC up on the motor...the TC should spin freely all the way untill the motor and tranny are completely snug...if at ANY point the TC gets where it won't spin freely STOP, as it isn't seated properly, so the tranny needs to be moved back untill you can get it fully seated....it should have about 1/16" between it and the case of the tranny on the rearward side

Thats about it for any unusual stuff.....but it is one HEAVY mother....so have some extra hands around, and a good tranny jack will make things much easier.

Hopefully it'll warm back up this week for you to woek on it...
You can always call me if you have any questions

[jeffast]

Originally Posted by huck369

(I think you can use the front section of an auto Legacy in it, but might have to modify the carrier bearing mount some.)

true to use the legacy front half you have to move one of the bolts out like half an inch, on my five speed conversion i just removed one of the grommets from the carrier, and that gave me enough room to slide the bolt through the carrier

Originally Posted by huck369

Do NOT force the TC up on the motor...the TC should spin freely all the way untill the motor and tranny are completely snug...if at ANY point the TC gets where it won't spin freely STOP, as it isn't seated properly, so the tranny needs to be moved back untill you can get it fully seated....it should have about 1/16" between it and the case of the tranny on the rearward side

+1 I did this the first time i put in an auto, and i thought it was seated fine, there should be no space at all behind the torque converter it should look like its going to hit the case if seated properly. i mean 1/16 of an inch might even be too much space, i am really anal, it's expensive to get a new pump put in a 4eat, i had a friend do it, and it still cost me like $450 including parts. any way good luck paul

[crazyhorse]

I won't be getting anything done today It's snowing.

[huck369]

Been snowing here today too....supposed to be in the 60's tomorrow

[It's Just Eric]

youll need something to prop the engine up so it doesnt fall forward once the trans is out....a nice short lenghth of 2x4 going from the alternator bracket to the radiator support works well