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  #16  
Old 10-13-2015, 05:33 PM
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Re: front differential setup how to and re-rebuild of genuine Subaru Remanufactured 4

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean486 View Post
Should be PDF'd and put in the how to section. Thank you for taking the time to write it up and for sharing.
I will do that. Thanks for sharing!
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  #17  
Old 10-14-2015, 06:30 AM
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Re: front differential setup how to and re-rebuild of genuine Subaru Remanufactured 4

I should probably point out that it is unusual to find the front dif setup to be wrong from Subaru. This is the first time I've seen it be off in a genuine Subaru reman. I've had a customer come to me before after having two front dif failures on genuine Subaru reman transmissions but I never saw the failed difs. I've always assumed his failures were do to some unusual stress like putting it in park before coming to a complete stop or not using the parking brake on high hills. I've rebuilt several genuine Subaru remanufactured transmissions before and the differentials have all been perfect until now.

I can't say as much for their high clutches. I've gone through this transmission now and found that it does in fact have a bad high clutch.


Before I get into that here are a couple more tips. The front differential case makes a nice stand to hold the pump while you go through it..if you go through it. I've never found one worn out. Destroyed in a transmission with hard parts failure, yes. Worn out, no. That said if you wash the transmission before you take it apart without the converter installed (like I usually have to do) water does get in the front pump and you should make a point of immediately taking it apart. While you have it apart you might consider very slightly filing down the end of the control piston. The pump rotor has to be in just the right spot for it to line up with the lip on the pump cover. If you don't get it right the pump cover will not sit completely flat on the pump. If this happens to you you will have to take it apart and start over. Tip, push the rotor all the way, directly away from the contact point between the control piston and the cam.

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  #18  
Old 10-15-2015, 08:44 AM
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Re: front differential setup how to and re-rebuild of genuine Subaru Remanufactured 4

The Subaru remanufacturer updated the high clutch hub to what I recognize as their latest style high clutch hub. It has a reasonably small number of large holes in the middle of blued/black rectangles. We've all heard this is supposed to improve cooling. Does it really make a difference? I don't know. It definitely doesn't prevent high clutch failure. This genuine Subaru remanufactured transmission, like many before it, and like almost every failed SVX transmission I have ever worked on has a failed/failing high clutch. Note in the photo that some of the frictions are worn completely smooth and the steels have clearly been running too hot.




The sure way to prevent the high clutch from slipping is to use what is called a "power pack" in transmission industry lingo. A power pack is a clutch pack with more frictions in it. A normal SVX high clutch has 5 frictions in it. I use 6 high energy graphite frictions in mine. Unfortunately there isn't a parts supplier/manufacturer that makes a power pack for phase 1 4eat transmissions but there are parts available from which I could make my own power packs after figuring it out. The black steels you see in the picture are the hard part to find. They are Alto Kolene steels made for Nissan pathfinder power packs.

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  #19  
Old 10-15-2015, 09:06 AM
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Re: front differential setup how to and re-rebuild of genuine Subaru Remanufactured 4

The Subaru remanufacturer did not update the low/reverse clutch to their later style clutch pack. From other genuine Subaru remanufactured transmissions which I have rebuilt I had already learned that they do not revert back to the older style clutch packs in newer transmissions. Now we see that they do not update the older style transmissions to the newer style low/reverse clutch packs. They stick with whatever style they have.

The older style low/reverse clutch is the stronger clutch pack. It has 8 frictions. All the parts in it, including the piston, are different from the newer style. The newer style piston uses D ring seals making it much easier to install than the older style. I make the same choice as the Subaru remanufacturer when I rebuild a transmission unless it is for a supercharged car or car with a large nitrous oxide shot. I have a stock of the old style pistons, pressure plate, and steels so I can revert to the old style for race cars--otherwise I go with whatever it has. I think I've only seen 1 bad low/reverse clutch ever. It's really not a problem.



The Subaru remanufacturer did update the reverse clutch to the newer style. This requires replacing the high clutch basket. The 92 transmissions used a smaller reverse friction. The splines on the reverse frictions mate with the high clutch basket. The heat from a slipping high clutch goes right into the reverse frictions. You can see looking at the steels in this reverse clutch that is has been running hot but it has survived. The frictions in this clutch pack are still fine. If this was an early style reverse clutch it would have failed. The smaller frictions in the early style reverse clutches just don't seem to be able to disperse the heat from a slipping high clutch.



So now this transmission has the best of everything. I've upgraded all the frictions, I've put a power pack in the high clutch, it has the better reverse clutch, it has the better low/reverse clutch. I've slightly modified the control piston in the pump to increase output. Next I'll rework the valve body. This will be the last rebuild this transmission ever needs.
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  #20  
Old 12-12-2015, 08:37 AM
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Re: front differential setup how to and re-rebuild of genuine Subaru Remanufactured 4

Another tip....

There is a small diameter washer that goes on the end of the pinion shaft before the drive gear (not the big washer that goes between the gear and the lock nut. It usually stays on the pinion shaft when you remove pump/pinion from the transmission but sometimes it falls into the transmission.

You must use this washer. If it happens to fall off in your case and you don't know it exists it will spell calamity for you. Without it the drive gear will be able to rub on the spring that holds the parking pawl disengaged, it will eventually wear through the spring, and then the parking brake will engage while you are driving causing the immediate destruction of the front differential.

You can just slide it on the shaft or fix it to the drive gear with petroleum jelly.



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