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  #31  
Old 02-16-2009, 11:49 PM
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP

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Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
Nope, it's got a 100 mm bore x 75 mm stroke = 3534 cc's



I would certainly want to sleeve the block for forced induction with that bore diameter.

Ok heres another question.
Would Having a EG33 Bored to 3.5L will it still be ok for using for normal road use...
Like having the bore walls thinner could they go out of round quicker etc?
or End up with engine failure quicker?
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  #32  
Old 02-17-2009, 01:15 AM
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP

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Originally Posted by subbieatnz View Post
Ok heres another question.
Would Having a EG33 Bored to 3.5L will it still be ok for using for normal road use...
Like having the bore walls thinner could they go out of round quicker etc?
or End up with engine failure quicker?
The short answer is no.

You don't just bore it out of what is there. To go to 3.5 litres you would replace the liners with different thicker ones, so the liners when bored would be as strong as [or stronger than!] standard.

Joe
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  #33  
Old 02-17-2009, 11:52 AM
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP

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Originally Posted by svxistentialist View Post
The short answer is no.

You don't just bore it out of what is there. To go to 3.5 litres you would replace the liners with different thicker ones, so the liners when bored would be as strong as [or stronger than!] standard.

Joe
Guess we'll find out!

Jack's engine was bored out to 100 mm with the standard liners. So far it has survived numerous dyno sessions and some parking-lot antics, but it has yet to see track duty this year. His machinist used Jack's spare (junk) block as a test dummy, and they drilled some holes through the stock sleeves into the water jacket. They seemed satisfied with the wall thickness for a N/A application. I can't comment since I don't know the actual wall thickness myself.
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  #34  
Old 02-17-2009, 02:11 PM
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP

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IIRC you guys in CA only have 91 octane available, so that reduces the compression tolerance even more.
What gains could be seen with a stand-alone EMS and E85? I hear one can run a bit more compression and timing advance with E85 since it's a higher octane. I know there would be a possible MPG loss, but could one expect significant power gains?
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  #35  
Old 02-17-2009, 09:49 PM
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP

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Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
Guess we'll find out!

Jack's engine was bored out to 100 mm with the standard liners. So far it has survived numerous dyno sessions and some parking-lot antics, but it has yet to see track duty this year. His machinist used Jack's spare (junk) block as a test dummy, and they drilled some holes through the stock sleeves into the water jacket. They seemed satisfied with the wall thickness for a N/A application. I can't comment since I don't know the actual wall thickness myself.
A couple of days ago I was talking to "Mike", my local machinest, and we were looking at Sov13t's block.

He measured the factory sleeve wall thickness at about 0.160", and as I remember we thought that we could bore the cylinder out to 100mm to match popular pistons, and available head gaskets.
The aluminum casting surounding the sleeve is about 0.250" thick.
He thought that that was a safe overbore if it was not supecharged, or turbocharged, but untill someone does it this is all just speculation.
Tom
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Last edited by svxfiles; 02-18-2009 at 05:38 AM.
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  #36  
Old 02-18-2009, 04:27 AM
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP

I was talking to Ron last year. He was planning to bore and stroke one of his engines to 3.7 I think. He likes the idea of a more powerful NA engine.

I'm not sure what dimensions he was going on the bore, or whether he was re-sleeving.

My own gut feeling [speculation, for sure ] is that with the cost of work involved in boring out it is not worth the risk to run with thinner standard liners in relation to the cost of replacements. Absolutely not for a blown engine.

Others may see it differently. For a road NA engine that was not going to get grief it might be OK I expect. I personally would worry about head gasket integrity and would opt for belt and braces. I'm tight with money.

Joe
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  #37  
Old 02-18-2009, 10:23 AM
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP

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Originally Posted by svxfiles View Post
He measured the factory sleeve wall thickness at about 0.160", and as I remember we thought that we could bore the cylinder out to 100mm to match popular pistons, and available head gaskets.
The aluminum casting surounding the sleeve is about 0.250" thick.
If this in fact the case, I'm going to go out on a limb and say it's plenty safe for an N/A engine then. At 100 mm, we're looking at a 3.1 mm bore increase, or 1.55 mm per wall (.061"). Leaving .100" of sleeve roughly, with a surrounding .250" of aluminum to support it. Heck, I've bored cast iron blocks down to .120" thick walls with no outer supporting walls, and raced them hard. I would still put in sleeves for forced induction or nitrous at that bore diameter.
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  #38  
Old 05-06-2009, 06:30 AM
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP

sorry to bring back an old topic but I was doing some reading I didn't do in feb lol and have some questions.. well one big one.

with all things considered, if forced induction is the end goal would it be advised to bore or not? and if so how much??
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  #39  
Old 05-19-2009, 10:42 PM
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP

These 7k numbers seem pretty low to me. You'd need to acid wash the block, port the heads, custom cam profiles, complete intake and exhaust, injectors, valve springs, hydra engine management, pistons and rods, crankshaft balanced, you're at 7k right there, at least. Then you can add your super/turbo charger, at another 5k-8k. 400hp is pretty high, last I heard tom wasn't there, and he has over 20k in his engine. Then if i recall correctly, you have to have a 6 speed transmission out of an STI to handle the power, as well as sti axels, add another 8-10k. You can make 400hp all day long, but if you toss your trans or snap an axel every time you hit the gas, it's kind of useless.

Not to try to deter you, but setting aside 7-8k, getting less than half done, is very discouraging. I would take it one step at a time, work it, work it, have end game goals, and do it over time. I'm hoping you have another vehicle to drive before dropping 20k into your SVX. Also, be aware that once you do this, you cannot sell, ever.
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  #40  
Old 05-20-2009, 07:10 PM
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP

I make 400 crank all day, the supercharger is for sale and the cheapest way you are going to do it... Just sayin, the option has been on the table for over a year and no one bought it...

Tom
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  #41  
Old 05-21-2009, 10:27 PM
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP

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Originally Posted by JaySVX View Post
These 7k numbers seem pretty low to me. You'd need to acid wash the block, port the heads, custom cam profiles, complete intake and exhaust, injectors, valve springs, hydra engine management, pistons and rods, crankshaft balanced, you're at 7k right there, at least. Then you can add your super/turbo charger, at another 5k-8k. 400hp is pretty high, last I heard tom wasn't there, and he has over 20k in his engine. Then if i recall correctly, you have to have a 6 speed transmission out of an STI to handle the power, as well as sti axels, add another 8-10k. You can make 400hp all day long, but if you toss your trans or snap an axel every time you hit the gas, it's kind of useless.

Not to try to deter you, but setting aside 7-8k, getting less than half done, is very discouraging. I would take it one step at a time, work it, work it, have end game goals, and do it over time. I'm hoping you have another vehicle to drive before dropping 20k into your SVX. Also, be aware that once you do this, you cannot sell, ever.
Cannot sell? Why not?
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  #42  
Old 05-21-2009, 11:02 PM
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP

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Cannot sell? Why not?
Generally speaking, if you sell a modded car it will bring you no more money than a non-modded car.
Having been in the "car business" since before you were born, I hate to tell people that the Corvette motor that they installed makes their Camaro worth LESS money than if it had a stock motor...



Unless you sell it to someone who REALLY likes it.
I would, and have paid more for a Hot Rodded car than a stock one, but then again, I'm not normal.
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  #43  
Old 05-22-2009, 01:26 AM
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP

why the hell is it so hard for the EG33 to hit 400HP when an STi engine has been hitting 500 for abuot the same cost? Are the designs in the 2 boxer engines really that different?
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  #44  
Old 05-22-2009, 03:43 AM
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP

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why the hell is it so hard for the EG33 to hit 400HP when an STi engine has been hitting 500 for abuot the same cost? Are the designs in the 2 boxer engines really that different?
one reason... aftermarket support due to the number of engines out there!!!!
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  #45  
Old 05-22-2009, 04:29 AM
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Re: Cheapest/Easiest Way to get to ~400 crank HP

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why the hell is it so hard for the EG33 to hit 400HP when an STi engine has been hitting 500 for abuot the same cost? Are the designs in the 2 boxer engines really that different?

Because it is not an Sti... I would start there

Tom
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