Giving my ABS a serious look.

[NikFu S.]

History:

ABS kind of died out slowly back in December of 05. The orange light has been on my dash since then.

I had a Subaru tech look at it a couple months ago, he says he can't diagnose because there is no power going to the unit. Looking at the red code light confirms this, as it never blinks. It did however blink back after it failed, got a code 16, which is why I bought an control unit from a member here.

Yesterday I installed the "new" ABS computer. No change, however I did notice the old unit seems have been smashed, and I think I know how. Note to everyone: avoid very deep potholes, even if you are only moving at a crawl. I was creeping along an uneven gravel road at about 1-2mph and this massive hole just came out of nowhere, smashed up through the floor (it is now cracked) and put a huge dent in the top of the ecu.

So anyway, that made no difference, so I went at the relays on top of the hydraulic unit. If I pull the valve relay, the light on the dash goes out. If I pull the motor relay and leave the slot empty or replace it with a new ($27!) unit nothing happens.

So here's where I feel I need to start: what can I check concerning getting power to the ABS control unit? All fuses seem to be fine, though I guess it's possible I have missed a few?
Why do we think removing the valve relay causes the ABS light to de-illuminate?

Right now I am going to return the new relay to Napa , and try Radio Shack, maybe get a "valve" relay, but I have seen no posts regarding this particular unit and am not sure as to it's specifications. Chilton's has no input on this matter.

[NikFu S.]

Ok I just put in a new "valve" relay ($27!!) and the light is off, which means one of two things:

the ABS is fixed

or

the relay does nothing. ( <- I pick this one)

--
Oh one more thing, I can't seem to disconnect my #4 ignition coil (or any of them), there doesn't seem to be any tabs anywhere so I can't test the thing.
Soon as I can do that, I can figure whether it needs to be replaced, which I need to do so I can drive the car so i can take it to get the fender fixed on the 17th.
Oh, and again, Chilton's has no specific input on how to disconnect them from the rear (harness).

[NiftySVX]

Did you drive it to let it run the self test? The actuator will run briefly for a self test at like 6mph or something like that. The pump relay would run the pump motor I would guess, seems like I remember a bulletin about ABS pump relays on the early models.

I'm the only person who actually wants ABS and doesn't have it

[NikFu S.]

I didn't drive it because fixing the ABS is low priority compared to the misfiring cylinder.

Cylinder 4 is not getting spark an dumping fuel into the exhaust. I must remove the coil to test it, but I can not see how it is being held in place at the harness.

Just replaced the alternator yesterday due to the x-mas tree dashboard.

[kwren]

I think those individual spark plug coils just have a bolt holding each of them on maybe?? Not sure but pretty sure.

might take a pretty good tug to pull one off even after removing the bolt. Seems like mine were on pretty snug.

If I am all wet on this, I am sorry.

Keith

[NikFu S.]

I can pull the coil away from the plug no problem, it's the other end I'm having trouble with. All 3 harnesses for the left bank are obscured by what looks like a coolant line, and I broke my halogen lamp so all I have to light up the subject is a little LED flashlight, however it doesn't seem to matter because I've yanked on those things every which way and they won't budge. They are rock solid.

I assume there is a locking tab like every other harness on the car but I can't see it or hence figure out whether I am unlocking it or not.


ARGH. LOL GUYs once I fix these two things my car won't have any problem whatsoever, cept for a ****ty trans (and an SRS light). I'm chomping at the bit to get it done.

--
Ok I just took it for a spin around the block, still no ABS light with the $27 Napa "lighting" relay. Radio Shack did not have this one, but they had the other one for ~$7.

[longassname]

The ABS electronic control unit gets power from the cruise control fuse under the dash. If you don't have an lsi you might not have noticed it's gone out. If you have an lsi you would have noticed the power assist for your steering greatly reduced.

[NikFu S.]

I have an LS-L and cruise control has always worked perfectly. I used it pretty recently.
Power steering feels fine. Only time I ever noticed it change was with an under drive pulley, which has since been replaced with OEM.

Will check that fuse though.
-
It's fine.
--
The 20A next to it is blown, and I'm pretty sure I've replaced this one a couple times.
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The Napa relay is blowing the ABS solenoid fuse.

Other than that, no change.

FYI, pulling the "SRS meter" fuse will kill the whole dash cluster.

[NikFu S.]

Anyone got the specs on this valve relay? Is it 30A like the other one?

[NikFu S.]

Nevermind. I went back to Napa and got another relay.

Turns out even though I asked for a 30A, and the guy gave me a 40A, and said there were no others.

I go in today, different guy, says he's got a 20A ($17), and I figure hey, I blew a 20A fuse, maybe I should use try to the 20A, so I will do that later.

[NikFu S.]

So the ABS light comes back on with the new valve relay, which tells me the old one was probably fine, which means now I am completely out of ideas.

[NikFu S.]

Ideas? I thought we had a bunch of electrical gurus around here. How can I have continuity at the hydraulic unit but not the brain? :/

Maybe someone can help me trace the "firewall end" of the harness that plugs into the ABS ecu so I can see if it's plugged in or covered in muck?

[NikFu S.]

#4 coil came in the mail today. I'm not sure if anything changed. Car still sounds like a 4 banger and when I pull injector plug 2 nothing seems to happen.

This time I'm not getting any CE codes.

[longassname]

With everything off so that it's quiet and the fuel pump isn't running unplug the connector to the injector in question and jump +12v and ground over to the injector and see if opens or not. You should be able to hear it pretty easily.

Originally Posted by NikFu S.

#4 coil came in the mail today. I'm not sure if anything changed. Car still sounds like a 4 banger and when I pull injector plug 2 nothing seems to happen.

This time I'm not getting any CE codes.

[NikFu S.]

Will give that a try soon as I figure out how (electrical retard).

This morning I figured out I can also swap the #1 and #2 coils to see if the problem follows. Can't believe I didn't try that sooner.