Weight reduction thread

[jetboy]

The only efficient way for me to squeeze more power into the SVX is to swap the EG for an EZ. If I also tuned it, I might get a total of 260 hp and I'm not so convinced that would be worth it. In addition, it would probably be wise to swap the transmission into one that can exploit the power better. All in all, a very expensive route.

Blowing is almost impossible to get approved as I would have to pay for TÜV approval....

So with SMC's window thread in mind, I always wondered how the car could lose weight instead.

What weighs what on an SVX? Where's the load? What can be swapped to make it lighter?

How much weight would the car need to lose in order to increase accel times?

I'm mostly concerned with accelleration times, not top speed. It's also important to at least keep the handling characteristics, so how would weight reduction affect distribution?

So far, what I can think of is

* Windows / 30 lbs savings
* Rims / ?? lbs savings

[Chuckls]

To help with weight savings, I removed the antenna assembly. Good for +5hp.

[redlightningsvx]

Seats and hood weigh a ton.

[NikFu S.]

Jokes? You can get more than 260hp from the eg and keep a higher torque curve than the ez.

Why are you reducing weight? I do it for the hell of it. Replace the hood, delete the A/C, remove the seats, swap the transmission...

Every pound removed will increase acceleration, but it won't really be substantial until you get 100-200lbs out of there and I suppose unless you're willing to drive the heaviest shopping cart in the world you won't get that far.

Also removing that much weight is going to change your handling characteristics.

For reference, my passenger seat weighs 49lbs.

[benebob]

You can loose about 900lbs from the 3600lbs true vehicle weight and still have an automatic. The key for dropping weight is there is good weight and bad weight to loose. High up good. Low and centered (i.e. tranny swap) not so good for handling or balance. Weight outside of the wheel base very good. You also need to keep in mind that your car sit about an inch or so higher with a 600lbs reduction in weight so of course you'll need to do something about that as well.

What can you expect for increased times. We were clocked at 14.2 in the quarter mile as opposed to stock which was a few ticks under 16 if I remember right. Only difference was a 4.11 vs the 3.54 and the conditions were not quite right for running. Temps were pushing a 100 in a hot humid florida afternoon.

[jetboy]

Originally Posted by Chuckls

To help with weight savings, I removed the antenna assembly. Good for +5hp.

Yes, I know you exist. You don't have to cut into every single thread with some sort of unsuccessful sarcasm. Play an MMO or something...

Niku, how do you suggest to boost EG's hp without blowing?

Thanks, Bene!

[NikFu S.]

Aftermarket engine management and tuning, but are you thinking of stripping the car? That's what Ben and Co. did..

[jetboy]

Originally Posted by NikFu S.

Aftermarket engine management and tuning, but are you thinking of stripping the car? That's what Ben and Co. did..

No, I'm not about to strip it.. but if there were any fairly quick ways to lose 200 lbs I'd consider, measured against handling and comfort.

You imply ECU reprogramming can up the power to more than 260? Or would that also include swapping parts?

If I would I couldn't blow it, regulators would not approve.

[NikFu S.]

Yes, swapping some parts. Fine-tuning the cams, exhaust, intake, fuel, simple stuff. 260 is just kind of a low number. I think you can get the EG to approach 300 without FI.

But I think if you tuned an ez and an eg equally for 260 the eg would have better torque all around.

[smc]

Well, my car is currently sitting at 3150 lbs wet w/o driver. Mind you, she is still a nose heavy pig. With my current suspension mods, im tuning out the understeer a great deal. But you can still feel it. The first time I had to hit the brakes hard with the stock tires and no interior, the tail was more than happy to come loose, as there was very little weight back there. Relocate a few things to the back, like the battery, and you will notice a decent shift in the weight bias.
Weight reduction so far:
No interior.
Removal of spare tire and jack.
Removal of all the floor tar.
Replacement of the HUGE factory muffler with something lighter... In my case, just tube
Removal of AC system.
Light weight seats.
STI tires and wheel's
Removal of rear window motors and locking the windows in place.
Welding cap in place of sunroof and removing all the brackets for it.

Additional weight can be removed all over the car. For instance, the rearview mirrors weigh 1.5lbs each. This is due to the mounting bracket being solid aluminum. You can mill some material out of them to reduce weight.

Ditch the automatic trans in favor of a 5-mt. You can pick up a 5-mt yourself and lug it around the shop. Not so much with the automatic..

Fiberglass hood. The race hood shaves a great deal of weight off the front of the car.

Replace the bumper bars with 1.5" .120 wall DOM tube

The rear decklid is fiberglass, but its VERY thick. You can easily remove a good deal of material there and loose the factory wing as its useless anyway.

Light weight battery in place of the stock lead acid battery.

Im currently making a fiberglass dash that should remove approx. 28 to 30lbs over stock.

Remove the ABS system.

Fabricate a new steering column as the stock one weighs a Great deal.


Mind you, this is all well and good for a Race car. Not so much if you plan on driving her to work every day.


When all is said and done, the goal for my car is to be in the 3,000 lb range with cage and all necessary rally equipment. Heh, wish me luck

[Crazy_pilot]

Originally Posted by jetboy

No, I'm not about to strip it.. but if there were any fairly quick ways to lose 200 lbs I'd consider, measured against handling and comfort.

Good plan. I drove my car without the rear interior (seats, side panels, rear shelf) intalled for a couple days while I was installing my suspension and could not believe how much noise it allowed into the car. Besides the noise factor though, the interior weight is basically nothing. The rear seats are just foam and the panels thin plastic. The heaviest part of the interior is the front seats. You can save a bunch by swapping to the ecsaine non-power seats, or intsalling WRX seats, or even more by throwing in some Bride/Sparco racing seats.

Swap the seats, go to a 5MT, remove your AC system (the whole thing, not just the compressor), and take all the spare tire gear out of the trunk and you should be close to losing 200 lbs.

[Subaru Alliance]

I am not sure how accurate this statement is but I remember hearing that every 100lbs of weight you lose, it's the equivalent of gaining 10 HP. so if you can hit your goal of 200 lbs, that would be similar to all stock SVX with 250HP instead of 230HP

[jetboy]

Originally Posted by Subaru Alliance

I am not sure how accurate this statement is but I remember hearing that every 100lbs of weight you lose, it's the equivalent of gaining 10 HP. so if you can hit your goal of 200 lbs, that would be similar to all stock SVX with 250HP instead of 230HP

Uuuh Nikfu's tuning sounds like more bang for the buck to be honest

[vagabond]

Weight reduction done easy

[jetboy]

What kind of transmission is that?

I'm toying with the idea of buying a cheap SVX in Germany and turn it into a beastly track car in time... That kind of project would also enable me to learn **** on something which is not my daily drive