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New Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration
Since I was putting in the new high-output alternator, I have come up with and completed a cleaner version of the alternator wiring mod, which actually removed some of the original wires that the wiring upgrade made unnecessary. So I fabricated the new wires ahead of time and they were installed by svxfiles and myself when we installed the new alternator.
First a little history: ORIGINAL CONFIGURATION added three wires to the electrical system: .....▪ 4 gauge power wire from the alternator charging post to the positive terminal of the battery. .....▪ 4 gauge wire from the negative battery terminal to frame ground. .....▪ 4 gauge wire from the negative battery terminal to engine ground. The older original stock wires become corroded and brittle with age at the connectors and the wires themselves, causing resistance and diminished current flow; the same with the ground connections. With the larger added wiring, there was ample current flow from the alternator to the battery. (The alternator case is its own ground) The engine was now solidly grounded to the battery and the battery was solidly grounded to the chassis. There was about a 2 volt increase that was noticed. THE IDEA With alternator current now flowing freely and following the path of least resistance through the new larger wires, the original wires were not being used and seemed redundant. Unnecessary wires that were deteriorating and faulty connectors seemed to be no longer of any use, so why keep them? Looking inside the original black plastic wiring channel that runs along the rear of the A/C compressor and alternator you will find two white wires that attach to the alternator charging post. One of these goes back to the battery through a fusible link and the other goes to one side of the ignition switch. Using a multimeter, I found that the two white wires have approximately the same voltage at the alternator connection as is measured at the battery. The two wires from the alternator plug also are housed inside this plastic channel and three wires on top of the A/C compressor enter this channel further down. NEW CONFIGURATION Battery negative terminal: The larger ground wires from the negative battery terminal to frame ground and engine ground are still being used, but the smaller, original ground wire is now useless and was removed. I used a different type of connector for these wires to increase conductivity with a stronger connection. The plastic wiring channel was opened, the wires removed from inside and the plastic channel was discarded. Alternator connection: I removed the two white wires and cut them back about two feet. One of these wires was factory-spliced into three wires close to the battery. I put new ring connectors on each of these wires and connected them directly to the positive post of thebattery. They are still in the circuit and have the same voltage flowing through them, only now they are connected at the battery and not at the alternator. The alternator plug wires were lengthened, soldered and shrink-wrapped and encased in heat-resistant nylon/ fiberglass braided sleeving and routed behind the alternator and under the intake manifold and reconnected at their original position by the battery. The same thing was done to the two small A/C connectors. These are protected and hidden out of sight for a clean, uncluttered look. So all that remains is one single 4-gauge power wire, which runs across the top of the engine from the alternator charging lug to the positive battery post, through a 175A inline megafuse for protection. This single wire replaces both of the original white wires originally at the alternator; one of which the original charging wire with the fusible link protection. The fusible link was not removed. OVERVIEW OF WIRING All 4 gauge is by “Streetwires” and is high-density, fine strand, 100% oxygen-free copper that has been tinned to prevent corrosion. All connectors have been crimped, soldered, and sealed with heat-shrink tubing. All wire splices have been either soldered and shrink-wrapped or use butt connectors which were crimped and covered with shrink wrap. Connections use a thin dielectric grease coating for corrosion protection. I am also keeping a log on voltages and performance. On my trip home last night I noticed that, as the brushes in the alternator became broken in and began to seat properly, my voltage increased. By Reading X I should be able to give a full report. .
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. Subaru Ambassador 1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995..... Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan In-Service Date: January 2, 1997 "The Pristine Green Polo Machine” First Polo Green on the Network First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000) First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007) First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013) HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler. R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016 2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback 2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles. Plenty of parts, service and windshields. 4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001 My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX . . Last edited by svxcess; 07-05-2019 at 01:04 PM. |
#2
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Re: New Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration
John,
I'm looking forward to your results. I need to redo the wiring for two of my SVXs.
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1991 SVX L JDM |
#3
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Re: New Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration
You're now officially in the modified class for judging purposes. Why did you want a higher output anyways? I'd be very leary about sending more juice through wires that weren't designed to support it. A melted wiring harness or a burning Polo isn't a pretty thing to see!
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British vehicles are my last ditch attempt to keep the nasty Italian thoughts in my mind at bay. So far its working. |
#4
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Re: New Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration
Quote:
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1991 SVX L JDM |
#5
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Re: New Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration
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A higher-amp output alternator will not harm your battery or charging system in any way, as long as you add a larger 4 gauge charging wire between the alternator and the battery. A good rule of thumb is that more amps are not harmful, but more voltage is. If you look at electrical power like water, amperage is equivalent to the volume of water, and voltage is equivalent to water pressure. More amperage is like having a larger pool of water to draw from when you need it. During the winter, the loads placed on our electrical system are greatest. Winter driving, and the need to use current-hungry applications, such as heating/defrosting, rear window and mirror defrosters, lights, etc. are with us almost always in multiple combinations. Since high-output alternators are capable of putting out about half of their rated output at idle, this is where the benefit comes in. You could use the same current-hungry applications with the stock alternator and it would struggle to supply the same current demands at idle. since it was not designed for low-speed output. The original, older, corroded wires that I removed would be more of a hazard if left in. High resistance to current flow creates excessive heat and wiring breakdown is more likely. If you haven't already, read my "Alternator 101" in THIS POST for more information. This mod was not a frivolous impulse. I researched this for a long time, spoke with electronic engineers and electrical engineers with expertise in automotive electrical systems. They all agreed that this was a totally safe and reliable mod, with no adverse consequences. I had even sent them the Power Supply Routing schematics from the SVX wiring manual. ,
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. Subaru Ambassador 1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995..... Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan In-Service Date: January 2, 1997 "The Pristine Green Polo Machine” First Polo Green on the Network First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000) First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007) First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013) HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler. R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016 2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback 2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles. Plenty of parts, service and windshields. 4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001 My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX . . Last edited by svxcess; 03-12-2017 at 09:13 AM. |
#6
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Re: New Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration
When the modification referred to was first proposed, I was contacted by e-mail for advice. I set out the necessary requirements in detail, not knowing the reason for replacing all wiring, which it now turns out was corroded.
It would appear that several connections have been made directly to the battery, which means these sub circuits now have no protection against short circuit. This original wiring was routed via the fuse box and connected to a bus bar type positive point, so as to be protected by the fusible link. If others regarded this apparent modification to be a satisfactory arrangement, I disagree. Subaru knew what is required and a live wire insurance assessor could well use the mod. to disclaim any insurance.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#7
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Re: New Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration
Trevor is back!!!
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Former: 1994 Barcelona Red(x2), 1995 Brilliant Red, 1992 Liquid Silver, 1992 Ebony(x2), 1992 Pearl White (x2) Current: 2017 Ford Raptor 2017 Kawasaki KLR 1995 Guards Red Carrera 1995 Spec-ish Miata - track car 1957 CJ-5 |
#8
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Re: New Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration
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This is a common method used by car audio enthusiasts to minimize voltage drops. This is often referred to as the big three. I originally was planning on tackling this project, but have pushed further down on my to-do list. Pretty clean setup as always John. Can't wait to hear your results at Reading
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Tim 92 Liquid Silver SVX 5MT 2009 BMW Z4 (Gone) 2012 Camry V6 SE |
#9
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Re: New Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration
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The reason I am seeking guidance with replacement of these wires is mainly because of corrosion. I suppose I'll go for something closer to factory spec, if possible.
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1991 SVX L JDM Last edited by Mike621; 03-26-2009 at 09:16 AM. |
#10
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Re: New Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration
I believe the key discussion point here is protecting the battery via fusible links or 100A fuses (i.e., the need to add them, given the new wiring)
-Bill
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Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker |
#11
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Re: New Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration
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If you don't believe me, why don't you change a 15 amp fuse to a 30 amp fuse and run a 30 amp component through those wires meant for a 15 amp component. I'll provide the Hershey bars, crackers and marshmellows you'll be providing the eventual fire. Would you like almonds or plain chocolate? I'm fairly certain you are very much aware of this John as you're as anal as the best of us when it comes to your decisions. I'm also fairly sure that your circuits WILL be protected with a fusable link allowing only the factory specified amps to flow through any not upgraded in size wiring, however, not everyone is as anal nor willing to examine all aspects of the electrical system when changing it. A simple read of your plan doesn't specify exactly where and what is being changed. To do only part of what you're doing can and eventually will lead to an major issue once there is more draw then the wires can handle. Of course this is most likely to occur in cases of accidents or unprotected components grounding, not in your average day but a horrible day none the less.
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British vehicles are my last ditch attempt to keep the nasty Italian thoughts in my mind at bay. So far its working. |
#12
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Re: New Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration
Maybe I have been unclear.
I have not removed any of the fusible links from the system. All I have done is shortened the wires by about 2 feet, which were originally connected at the alternator post, and connected them straight to the battery. With the normal wiring upgrade in place, measuring the normal voltage at the alternator post, where these wires were attached, was the same as at the battery terminal. It is getting the same current and voltage, just at a different junction. The original circuitry and fusible link protection has not been touched or removed-- just two pieces of old wire. We added new ring terminals to the original (same gauge) wire and connected them I do not have mega-gazillion watt stereo amplifiers that need the extra current draw. I will be drawing the same current from this alternator as the stock one it replaced, to fulfill the requirements of our stock electrical system at any given time. I still have the 60A inline fuse in the main wire from the alternator to the battery as additional protection. It just gives me the same amperages that I need, but at a lower RPM. At idle, with my turn signals operating, I do not hear the change in fan speed of my climate control like I used to. If my car hasn't burned to a crisp by then, take a closer look at this at Reading. Even svxfiles had absolutely no concerns with this arrangement-- maybe he can shed some additional insights on this. .
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. Subaru Ambassador 1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995..... Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan In-Service Date: January 2, 1997 "The Pristine Green Polo Machine” First Polo Green on the Network First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000) First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007) First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013) HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler. R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016 2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback 2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles. Plenty of parts, service and windshields. 4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001 My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX . . |
#13
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Re: New Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration
waiting for pics
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Claret 92 Ls-l R.I.P - 24XXXX - kms "april 2008" rest in pieces Ebony black 92 Ls-l Alive - 25XXXX - Quick change, Powermod , Alternator Mod , audiobahn 1300 watt ach ,exile 800 watt peak, jackhammer 12" 300 watt rms, polkaudio 6 1/2 compoment. kenwood dvd\nav . radar detector.small car lens and grill |
#14
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Re: New Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration
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Go back to Ben's comment regarding "upstream of fuses". My concerned would be the the shortened wires heating up/burning prior to the fuseable link going, as you can now - potentially - get more amps flowing through them with the upgraded alternator. Just something to consider. -Bill
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Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker |
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Re: New Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration
No John, you've been perfectly clear to me but unless the wire is heavier than it should be you SHOULD be replacing it with a larger gauge (actually a smaller number wire) since you'll have more amps running through it to the battery, I would suspect that the Subaru didn't use a heavier gauge wire there as it is a weak point of the car once it starts to degrade and what the starter is on that direct circuit too I think. Look at it this way. In your house you have 12 gauge wire and 14 gauge wire. 14 gauge is good for only 15 amps, 12 gauge is good for 20 amps. Yes that is ac not dc but the principles are the same. You will be heating up that wire faster under normal conditions, you will be degrading it faster and eventually if left in use long enough it can fail or worse start a fire.
I'm no sparky nor do I want to be but any how to electrical book will tell ya which wire to use based on the number of amps going through it. You could simply remain stock and keep your contacts and wires clean and in good shape. Why don't you remove the plastic from your harness and start polishing! Quote:
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British vehicles are my last ditch attempt to keep the nasty Italian thoughts in my mind at bay. So far its working. |
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