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  #1  
Old 11-03-2002, 12:59 AM
Dave J.
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Question Rear Wheel Bearing Repair - ABS sensor removal

I am in the process of disassembling the left rear suspension to replace the noisy wheel bearing. The hub and bearing carrier are off the car but the ABS sensor is seized up in its mount. I need to know how to remove the sensor from the hub assembly without cutting the cable or damaging the sensor (if possible)! Any inofrmed advice would be greatly appreciated!
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  #2  
Old 11-03-2002, 08:55 AM
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mbtoloczko mbtoloczko is offline
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Did you see this thread:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...&threadid=6517

From that thread, I get the impression that it just takes lots of patience. I guess I'll find out for myself today, as I'm about to replace the rear wheel bearings myself too. BTW, I checked on the price of the ABS sensor already, and they are $150/ea at my Subaru dealer!
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:: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ ::
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SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads.
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  #3  
Old 11-03-2002, 09:33 AM
alacrity024
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CAREFUL!!!!!!

When changing one of my front CV axles, the Chilton's manual maintained the necessity of removing the ABS sensor, so we banged the HELL out of it until it came out. Well it turns out that in order to remove an axle, the sensor can in fact stay in. Turns out that we broke the sensor by railing on it so hard. If you can afford the time, give it a couple days soaking in the best "unsticker" you can find.. if nothing else works, beat the piss out of it and find a new one..

-adam
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  #4  
Old 11-03-2002, 10:52 AM
lee lee is offline
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Like Beav recommended in the other thread, I would suggest some PB Blaster, and if you can set it up so it stays loaded with the stuff so much the better. Keep working at it and spray more PB. I have never found a better product for this type problem.

I realize you're probably getting impatient. But rather than destroying the sensor, try to find a hubtamer tool or other FWD bearing removal tool. You may be able to do the job without removing the sensor. My sensor came out with no problem so I didn't have that problem, but I think I could have done the job with the sensor still in place. Beav noted he only had to get it to move a bit, not come out to change the bearing.

Best of luck.
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  #5  
Old 11-03-2002, 06:45 PM
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If worse comes to worse...

Look at it this way - if you destroy it while removing it you'll be forced to find the other end. If you can't get it out find the other end now and save $100+.
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  #6  
Old 11-03-2002, 06:56 PM
Dave J.
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Thanks to you all for the assistance and suggestions. I will try the PB Blaster (and some patience) and see what happens. Since my last post I ran into a problem getting the anchor bolt out of the carrier to remove the rear most control arm. Ended up cutting through it and drilling out the plug left in the control arm. This is way too much work for what seems to be a straight forward design! No wonder the dealers charge an arm and a leg. I'm seriously considering installing studs of some type on both ends when I re-install it. Stay tuned!
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  #7  
Old 11-03-2002, 07:31 PM
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mbtoloczko mbtoloczko is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dave J.
Thanks to you all for the assistance and suggestions. I will try the PB Blaster (and some patience) and see what happens. Since my last post I ran into a problem getting the anchor bolt out of the carrier to remove the rear most control arm. Ended up cutting through it and drilling out the plug left in the control arm. This is way too much work for what seems to be a straight forward design! No wonder the dealers charge an arm and a leg. I'm seriously considering installing studs of some type on both ends when I re-install it. Stay tuned!
I concur the with amount of effort! Today, I got both knuckles off without destroying anything, but it took lots of PB Blaster, some huge breaker bars, a friend to help with a few things, and patience. It took nearly 8 hours to get both knuckles off. Now I've just got to clean everything up, take the knuckles to the machine shop to have the bearings R&Red, and then put the mess back together.

BTW, for those who are interested, I got the ABS sensors off by using a sharp chisel to wedge underneath the ABS sensor clamp plate. I just worked at it from opposite sides of the clamp, and little-by-little, I rocked the sensor out. Oh, and I also put some PB Blaster in there to help loosen things up.

On another note, I'm very impressed with the suspension and chassis on the SVX. It looks extremely stout!
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:: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ ::
1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold)

Visit my locker

SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads.
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  #8  
Old 11-05-2002, 01:33 PM
Dave J.
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mbtolozcko, thanks for the sharp chisel idea for removing the ABS sensor. I'll give that a try this weekend, along with plenty of PB Blaster as Beav, lee and alacrity024 have suggested.

I think what is really needed is a better bearing for these cars. (If this new bearing fails at 10,000 - 12,000 miles I'm going to redo the whole knuckle if I have to and get a more robust bearing in there.) I have read that the bearing is undersized given the weight and size of the car. A lot of references advise cleaning the bearing and replacing the grease as critically important, as well as torqueing the axle nut to specs. It's funny but there doesn't seem to be a problem with the front bearings at all, and that's where most of the weight is! (Maybe its possible to adapt the front bearings to fit the rear knuckles.)

Again thanks to everyone for the advice, suggestions and experiences. It really makes a difference.

Dave
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