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  #61  
Old 02-10-2003, 07:25 PM
alltrac alltrac is offline
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all this IRIS stuff sounds like the VRIS thats in my 2.5l mx-6 beav said it best oh and my 96lsi doent have a power mode light either maybe we could do a vtec light?
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  #62  
Old 02-11-2003, 05:59 PM
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This shows the effect of the volumetric efficiency vs the speed.

This shows the fuel injection amount verses rpm and the control function of the induction valve.

I think the part that isn't always there is in the 2500 to 3400 rpm range.

Last edited by svx_commuter; 02-11-2003 at 06:04 PM.
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  #63  
Old 02-12-2003, 03:52 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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What does it all mean??????

Quote:
Originally posted by svx_commuter
This shows the effect of the volumetric efficiency vs the speed.

This shows the fuel injection amount verses rpm and the control function of the induction valve.

I think the part that isn't always there is in the 2500 to 3400 rpm range.
They don't explain it easy do they John, it gets lost in the interpretation.

The valve between the two halves of the intake system is open at idle and to about 1800 rpm. This is so that the inlet pulses won't interfere with idle or off idle. At 1800 or there abouts, the valve closes to allow the Inertia effect to increase the cylinder filling.

The effect of this can be seen in the peak at about 3500rpm. If the system was not fitted, the torque line would be the lower line, like most other jap torque curves, gutless. It is this system that gives the SVX the 'big push' at 2500 to 4000 rpm.

By about 4200 the inertia system has reached it's limit, The long column of air that provided the inertia to force the air in, has now become too heavy to react quickly enough, to the speed of the engine.

The induction valve now opens to join the two halves together, this forms a large volume chamber that turns the system into the normal high speed, tuned length, resonate system that most engines use.

Harvey.
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  #64  
Old 02-13-2003, 09:25 AM
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Thanks for the info Harvey.

That's telling it like it is!

You never told us how you manage the gears on the dirt bike, you being a Bandit and all.

Joe
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  #65  
Old 02-13-2003, 03:13 PM
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Don't try this at home!!!!!!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by svxistentialist
Thanks for the info Harvey.

That's telling it like it is!

You never told us how you manage the gears on the dirt bike, you being a Bandit and all.

Joe
Sure I did, I have the clutch, front brake and twist grip on the left side. Throttle works the opposite way. Twist forward as I let the clutch out, twist back when I pull the clutch in. Simple as falling off a log

Harvey.
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  #66  
Old 02-14-2003, 05:23 AM
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Re: Don't try this at home!!!!!!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by oab_au


Sure I did, I have the clutch, front brake and twist grip on the left side. Throttle works the opposite way. Twist forward as I let the clutch out, twist back when I pull the clutch in. Simple as falling off a log

Harvey.
Well apologies mate, if you did, I missed it.

That mean you have two levers to pull on the one side? Backward throttle twist an elegant solution. I thought you might be just booting it through the gears at the right revs.

Ever thought of cabling up the pedal brake to the front, or would that not be sensitive enough?

Joe
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  #67  
Old 02-20-2003, 08:15 AM
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TiPSy

Quote:
Originally posted by Trevor
Joe,

Your experience and comments regarding driving the the SVX in respect of gear ratios, the aoto response and power mode are exactly in line with mine.

Driven in D and without the power button activated it is an old man's car.
There is no fun to be had other than with power the power mode button activated and 3 selected. Otherwise as you say, it drives like any other car stuck in overdrive. D is a very tall gear and kills it. However in point of fact it is an overdrive and should be treated as such and should have been marked as such. The sins of poor economy no doubt coloured the thinking.

I have always been critical in respect of throttle response as you are and because of this have recently removed, checked, cleaned and reset the TPS on my car. Although I found little wrong, I think (?) there is an improvement but am not sure until I have another good open road trip. The last one got me a ticket by the way.

Setting the TPS accurately in accordance with the instructions in the manual is not practical and more or less impossible but I have a way of doing this if you are interested.
Trevor, I would be very glad of any information you have on setting or cleaning the TPS, and thank you for offering.

My Ballistic Plum is coming up on 100k miles, and the TPS is acting funny. This may be in empathy with the driver, but I have my excuses. If I do not manage to make worthwhile improvement to it, I will have to bite the bullet and fit a new one soon.

Obviously don't want to bite the bullet, as I don't have an unleaded head.

Joe
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  #68  
Old 02-22-2003, 12:28 AM
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Joe, with regards

Joe lucky I saw your post as there has bean a lot of traffic of late.

The manual says to measure voltage at the TPS by inserting meter probes into the plug at the ECU. Nice and easy that is ! In order to accomplish the feat more easily you will require, best of all, one of those dress making pins with a nice thin shank and a knob on the end, or a thin needle. Also a meter to measure 0 . 5 volts d.c..

The TPS comprises a potentiometer, presumably used in a voltage divider configuration, as three wires come from it. There is a plug and socket close to the unit so that it can be easily removed for servicing. At this plug the wires are --- black ground and one end of the resistance element, red the other end and white the wiping contact.

Stick your pin right through the white insulated wire so that you can clip your meter lead onto it to make measurements. A fine pin will not damage the conductors as they will spread and there will be no significant damage to the insulation. Measure between the wiper, i.e. white wire and ground by connecting to engine, chassis. or whatever.

Now from the book :-- 1. Connect all connectors. 2. loosen TPS fixing screws. 3. Turn ignition on. 4. Adjust TPS position while throttle valve is FULLY closed, using a volt meter, to specified voltage. 5. tighten fixing screws.

The voltage is specified as 0.45 -- 0.55 volts. I had no trouble in setting things at exactly half a volt.

Before removing the TPS or altering the original setting it is a good idea to mark the mating castings with a scratch so that one can check on the adjustment, before and after, as a matter of interest. It always is nice to know if the effort expended has in fact improved things.

Knowing the connections of the unit it is easily checked with an ohm meter after removal for smooth operation or otherwise. Evan without dismantling a spray with CRC or similar cleaner and a work out will do wonders. The resistance end to end ( black to red ) should measure very close to 5000 ohms.

Having rather laboriously typed the above I think I should do a spot of pasting and stick it in Ò technical Ò as others may be interested. I hope you will have improvements as a result.
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  #69  
Old 06-16-2004, 03:14 AM
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Mystery +30hp

This thread was before my time. Too good to miss. Gotta share.

Quote:
Originally posted by Beav
I'm willing to wager a dollar to a donut most of you will find, that if you pay attention, the engine will romp more reliably when you don't just stab the pedal to the floor. I find it better to go 25-30% throttle until about 3500-4000 rpm , then stand on it quick enough to set the 'power' lamp. I drive a lot of cars in my job and I've found that almost all multi-valve engines perform better this way, it's not just an SVX or Subaru phenomenon.
I have found this to be true.
Quote:
Originally posted by svxistentialist
My Ballistic Plum is coming up on 100k miles
I always wondered what that meant.
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  #70  
Old 06-16-2004, 04:14 AM
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Re: Mystery +30hp

Quote:
Originally posted by NikFu S.
This thread was before my time. Too good to miss. Gotta share.


I always wondered what that meant.
OK Nik, I know you're being funny

I christened my car the ICBP, or intercontinental ballistic plum, due to its missile-like speed on the highway, and the colour, which is Black on Bordeaux or Guinness over Shiraz, whatever you're having yourself.

I fitted a new TPS at exactly 0.5 volts, but I still get a throttle flare going from 2 to 3. Happens all the time on a light throttle, so now, I drive in Power mode all the time, which increases the revs at which changes happen, and so increases the line pressure, so I don't get slippage. At the moment, my gearchanges are a little jerky in power mode, but no code is shown, so I'm not sure what's causing it.

Oh, and my Ballistic Plum is now clocking up to 180K kilometres

Joe
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  #71  
Old 06-16-2004, 05:14 AM
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Funny how?

I thought it had something to do with continence.
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  #72  
Old 06-16-2004, 06:08 AM
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Re: Funny how?

Quote:
Originally posted by NikFu S.
I thought it had something to do with continence.
That was meant to be Joes little secret
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  #73  
Old 06-16-2004, 07:24 AM
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All this talk of power mode... I think I've seen that power light like 3 times in the 3 or 4 weeks I've owned the car. I always manually downshift, so I don't end up mashing the throttle to downshift. I never stab at it to accelerate either. I find that "rolling on" the throttle is better for performance, as a few people have mentioned.

I don't see what the benefit of raising the shift points is either... it'll go all the way to 6500 unless I let off on the throttle. usually I have the gear selector in the gear I want to be in anyways. it's a habit I got into with my Impreza. I manually shift it by reflex now. keeping it in whatever the optimal gear for your speed is will keep the tranny heat down also, since the TC isn't spinning against itself very hard. just have to be careful to avoid engine braking since that does spike up the heat considerably.
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  #74  
Old 06-16-2004, 08:07 AM
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Continence?

Yep, continence is an issue, that's why I have a recumbent seat in my SVX Andy. I think it's because the car drinks a lot.

IggDawg, you must have missed the point that the flare only happens 2-3 on a light throttle. Due to the higher line pressure [I presume?] this problem does not show at all under full bore acceleration.

As I have the switch in my JDM car for forcing Power mode, then with Power on the TCU holds on to lower gears longer no matter whether I am accelerating hard or gently so that when the shift occurs the pump is at higher revs and pressure, and does away with the slippage.

Shift points at WOT would be the same as you say, but what I am doing is raising the 2-3 shift point at normal acceleration levels to avoid a problem.

Joe
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  #75  
Old 06-16-2004, 09:31 AM
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I found the hidden 37 HP in my SVX . It was right next to the alternator pump, and just behind the flux capacitor. Now I can use that extra HP to get me up to 88 MPH faster. Can't wait!





Dave


P.S. The "secret" oil leak Subaru built into my Outback engine is really there to lubricate my muffler bearings!
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