Finally picked up my 96 SVX. Temp gauge moves around a little.

[Huskymaniac]

Originally Posted by kwren

Maybe you pretty much already described it.

Keith

Husky maniac, is it the 4 legged animal Husky you are crazy about? The dog?

It is a basketball team, not the animal.

I know that a fluctuating temp gauge is a sign of headgasket issues but I would think the needle would go from normal to warmer not from cooler to normal.

[Cam]

That is just how it starts. My car had identical symptoms. It progressively got worse until it became completely undrivable. We are not trying to give you our "opinion", just letting you know whats coming. You have about an 80% chance of a blown headgasket...sorry

[Mike621]

Originally Posted by Cam

That is just how it starts. My car had identical symptoms. It progressively got worse until it became completely undrivable. We are not trying to give you our "opinion", just letting you know whats coming. You have about an 80% chance of a blown headgasket...sorry

From experience, I agree with OT, Dan, Cam,etc on this one. This is how the first engine on my Claret was behaving.

[Huskymaniac]

Originally Posted by Cam

That is just how it starts. My car had identical symptoms. It progressively got worse until it became completely undrivable. We are not trying to give you our "opinion", just letting you know whats coming. You have about an 80% chance of a blown headgasket...sorry

I guess I am a little surprised at your certainty level. I know that water pumps, thermostats and even a bad radiator cap can cause similar symptoms. Plus, I thought it was the 2.5L engines that typically had head gasket issues and that it was less of an issue for the 6 cylinder engines.

I knew about the transmission, wheel bearing and warped rotor issues but head gaskets were not typically discussed as a known common issue.

OK, so let's say it is a head gasket. First, should I go to a dealer or is it easy enough that a decent local mechanic can replace them? Second, what is the typical cost in each case?

I guess what I thought was a good deal for a low mileage SVX might turn out to not be such a great deal.

[SoCal LS-L]

Originally Posted by Huskymaniac

I guess I am a little surprised at your certainty level. I know that water pumps, thermostats and even a bad radiator cap can cause similar symptoms. Plus, I thought it was the 2.5L engines that typically had head gasket issues and that it was less of an issue for the 6 cylinder engines.

I knew about the transmission, wheel bearing and warped rotor issues but head gaskets were not typically discussed as a known common issue.

OK, so let's say it is a head gasket. First, should I go to a dealer or is it easy enough that a decent local mechanic can replace them? Second, what is the typical cost in each case?

I guess what I thought was a good deal for a low mileage SVX might turn out to not be such a great deal.

Well then do the thermostat first, since its cheap and easy, and see what happens. ALL headgaskets fail sooner or later, either by design flaws or age, in our cases its age. I wouldnt trust any shop to do them, take it to a subaru specialist. Cost is high since the engine must be pulled, and you should really do a full engine reseal while its out.

BUT, again, GO BORROW/BUY A BLOCK TESTER KIT and test your car before worrying about it too much. They work, I have used them to diag headgaskets countless times on subaru engines.

[Cam]

Head Gaskets are not hard to replace yourself, if you have some confidence, patience, and a decent set of tools. Head Gaskets will set you back a couple hundred, and Labor...well, I am not sure what flat rate is on a HG job for our cars. Someone should be able to chime in on this.

Don't lose hope, still diagnose the problem with logic and the aforementioned steps by OT. You could be a lucky case, and have a bad water pump or radiator cap.

If it is the HG, then get an engine reaseal kit, and have everything resealed. It is not going to cost you but a couple hundred more total, and you get the head gaskets in the re-seal kit. Much better option, and cost almost exactly the same. The engine must be torn down the same amount either way, so this is what I would recommend.

[Huskymaniac]

Thanks for the information guys. I have some new data.

I haven't had the chance to pick up a head gasket tester yet but I did take note of the fluid cold and warm. Cold, it was just above the low mark on the overflow container. After a nice long drive it was right at the high mark. It is difficult to see the fluid through the container but I didn't see bubbling. Also, the top hose on the radiator was soft so I know there wasn't excess pressure in the line. It was 84 today and the needle never got above about the 40% mark on a 30 minute highway drive. The only time I have ever seen it even get to 45% was on a very steep climb at low speed.

On a related note, I am in shock when I look at the engine compartment. It looks like a brand new car. The previous owner really seemed to baby the car to some extent..

[Cam]

Good luck, wish you the best possible outcome.

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by Cam

Good luck, wish you the best possible outcome.

We all have hope that it will turn out well,


It's just that we have seen this many times before.

[davew833]

The head gaskets CAN be replaced with the engine in the car, although only an idiot, or someone without an engine hoist (or both) would try it (I'll let you guess which category I fall into.) Oh yeah-- I did it at night, in January, in an unheated garage in Utah too. It wasn't that hard- just time consuming. Patience, care, and attention to detail is definitely required.

I'd recommend a full reseal kit too- I think it was less than $250 when I bought it (from the local dealer) a few years ago.

[Cam]

Definately pull the engine. You will actually save time just yarding it out and resealing it rather than trying it in the car. Oh yeah, be ready to possibly get new engine mount bushings (around $300).

[kwren]

Originally Posted by Huskymaniac

It is a basketball team, not the animal.
bummer... my one is the 4 legged type. had them for many years.. only one left at the moment.
I know that a fluctuating temp gauge is a sign of headgasket issues but I would think the needle would go from normal to warmer not from cooler to normal.

The crazy thing can also keep going up and down, back and fourth...

Keith

[dcarrb]

I can affirm what others have said about gauge operation: In my years of SVX ownership, no matter the driving conditions or weather, I've never observed any fluctuation in temp gauge readings. Whether it's zero out or 100 (as it's supposed to be today), they simply go to near the midpoint and stay there.

That said, if one of my gauges started see-sawing from cool to normal and back (and never higher), I'd probably spring for a new sending unit before doing anything else. Good luck with it.

dcb

[SoCal LS-L]

Originally Posted by Huskymaniac

Thanks for the information guys. I have some new data.

I haven't had the chance to pick up a head gasket tester yet but I did take note of the fluid cold and warm. Cold, it was just above the low mark on the overflow container. After a nice long drive it was right at the high mark. It is difficult to see the fluid through the container but I didn't see bubbling. Also, the top hose on the radiator was soft so I know there wasn't excess pressure in the line. It was 84 today and the needle never got above about the 40% mark on a 30 minute highway drive. The only time I have ever seen it even get to 45% was on a very steep climb at low speed.

On a related note, I am in shock when I look at the engine compartment. It looks like a brand new car. The previous owner really seemed to baby the car to some extent..

After its warm, hoses shouldnt be soft, they should be pretty firm with the cooling system pressure. And with the jumping temp needle, id check to see if there actually is a thermostat installed. Sometimes people will remove it to try and hide a HG problem by keeping the engine too cool. Hopefully the engine is so clean because he steamed cleaned it to make it look nice, not to hide something.

[Huskymaniac]

Originally Posted by SoCal LS-L

After its warm, hoses shouldnt be soft, they should be pretty firm with the cooling system pressure. And with the jumping temp needle, id check to see if there actually is a thermostat installed. Sometimes people will remove it to try and hide a HG problem by keeping the engine too cool. Hopefully the engine is so clean because he steamed cleaned it to make it look nice, not to hide something.

Yeah, that would suck. I have heard of such things being done. I'm hoping he wasn't that dishonest. The car only has 73K miles on it and was driven in TN and GA so I think it is just clean because it was rarely exposed to harsh elements.