Cam and Crank Pulley Tool

[lanciat]

In preparing to replace the timing belt and cam and crank seals on my SVX, it appears that the hardest part of the job (absent access to the specialized Subaru tools) is removal of the crankshaft pulley and the cam sprockets.

While doing some internet surfing, I cam across two interesting tools: the first is the "Lisle 38220 Universal Cam Adjuster," and the second is the "Schley Products 96800 Universal Camshaft Pulley Holder." Each retails for around $30.

The Lisle appears to be the more adaptable of the two tools, as one of its two "forks" is adjustable to change the distance between the two bolts at the end of the "forks" that are intended to fit into holes in the pulley/sprocket.

Anyone have any experience with either of these two tools?

And can anyone tell me whether the cam sprockets (like the crank pulley) have holes in them into which a tool like this can be inserted?

Thanks for the help.

Joe Fillip
'95 L AWD ("The Wayback Machine")
Swarthmore, PA

[Landshark]

i used the 'Subafreak breaker bar/ crank the engine' method.

i put the breaker bar up against the alternator (secured with a piece of duct tape so it wouldn't slip off), turned the key in the ignition briefly, and it knocked the nut loose like a charm.

to re-install, a big strap wrench was able to hold the pulley enough to get it torqued to spec (forget what that is now.) the strap wrench would not hold it enough to break the nut loose - i tried.

i don't have any experience with the cam sprockets.

Since I just did the work last week, I believe I can help you.

The crankshaft pulley has four holes in it, all of which are at the edge of the pulley. The center of the pulley is solid. The holes are only about 0.25 inches wide (barely big enough for the average screwdriver). If either of the tools that you mentioned can fit in these holes, and can resist the quantity of torque required to loosen/tighten the bolt, then by all means use one of them.

I believe the specified torque for the crankshaft pulley bolt is 108 - 123 ft/lbs. I know for a fact that the recommended torque is 115 ft/lbs.

The camshaft pulleys are a little different. They do not have any holes in them. Their centers are not solid, but instead have spokes. I believe there are five spokes. The cam pulleys are about the same size as the crank pulley (I would guess about 5" - 5.5").

I believe the specified torque for the camshaft pulleys bolts is 27 - 33 ft/lbs of torque. I know for a fact that the recommended torque is 29 ft/lbs.

The method that I used to loosen the crank pulley bolt is similar to Landshark's. However, I would not suggest bracing the breaker bar against the alternator. They are not cheap if anything breaks. I would suggest that you brace the breaker bar against the frame, or against a sufficient block of wood. You could put the bar underneath the passenger side frame (you may need to lengthen the bar by connecting a long piece of strong pipe over the end). I used a 2.5' - 3' length of 2x4, with a v-cut in the top, to brace the bar. I set the 2x4 vertically on the ground, v-side up, and set the breaker on top of it. I would suggest attempting to start the car with only a flick-of-the-wrist on the key. Try to make sure that the bar is touching the frame or wood before starting. You wouldn't want to have the bar fly across the room and kill your mother, now would you?

For ideas on the camshaft pulleys, read my trials and errors with the process here.

Good luck.