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  #1  
Old 01-02-2003, 10:27 AM
lee lee is offline
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cam seals questions once again

I know this kind of question has been asked many times, but I have a new spin and want your opinions.

About 7K miles ago I had a leaking water pump. I had a local shop replace it and the timing belt and seals since the front had to be apart anyway.

so now I'm leaking oil pretty good out the front of the engine. So either I got taken on the seals or one was nicked or???

anyway, the owner of that shop died about a month ago and it has never reopened - must have been a sole proprietorship. So I can't go back for warranty work.

now my main question. 109K miles total, what else should I get looked at since the pump and T belt are both new.

If I attempt this at home, how big a strap wrench is needed to hold the pulleys in place, any new advice on the main pulley removal without separation, and any issues with getting the pulleys back on and tightened down?

Finally, I'm assuming the two cam seals, main pulley seal, and probably something around the timing cover itself. anything else need to be acquired?
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  #2  
Old 01-02-2003, 10:44 AM
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Unhappy Sorry Lee

I used the larger of the two strap wrenches in my Sears set. Removed the timing pulleys well when my impact wrench was on the bolt (gotta LOVE air tools!). The harmonic pulley came off easily after removing the bolt, again with the impact wrench.

As for re-installation, I carefully lined them up (after ensuring correct timing!!!) and lightly tapped them into place before bolting them down.

Replace the oil pump o-ring while you're in there as well.

Todd
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Old 01-02-2003, 11:15 AM
lee lee is offline
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Re: Sorry Lee

Quote:
Originally posted by wawazat??
I used the larger of the two strap wrenches in my Sears set. Removed the timing pulleys well when my impact wrench was on the bolt (gotta LOVE air tools!). The harmonic pulley came off easily after removing the bolt, again with the impact wrench.

As for re-installation, I carefully lined them up (after ensuring correct timing!!!) and lightly tapped them into place before bolting them down.

Replace the oil pump o-ring while you're in there as well.

Todd
Thanks.

Are the pulleys keyed? Is that something I should replace (the keys, if there). I assumed a key since you said lightly tap back in place.
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Old 01-02-2003, 12:59 PM
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Yep, all are keyed

I wouldn't bother with replacing the keys unless they are damaged (very unlikely). Timing marks on the belt and the pulleys make alignment easy. Just be careful with the torquing the bolts as the entire engine is aluminum! Torque values are EXETREMELY low compared to the cast iron lumps (Ford and Chevy) I've worked on in the past. The EG33 engine is an impressive piece of machinery when disassembled. The machining work is amazing. The cams ride directly on the aluminum saddle, NO BEARINGS! I gotta stop now, I'm getting all giddy!

Todd
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Old 01-03-2003, 11:04 AM
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I use a BIG strap wrench to get the main pulley off the crank. I made a tool to hold the cam pulley in place while I unbolt it. The strap wrench actually was starting to bend the cam pulley flange face.

Did they replace your crank shaft seal? Maybe they got the wrong seal for your cam shafts.
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  #6  
Old 01-03-2003, 01:14 PM
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I almost don't want to admit this.

To get the crank pulley bolt off, I used a big breaker bar. To hold the pulley steady, I...

<sigh>

...I tightened up the drive belt tensioner and stuck a big screwdriver in one of the PS pulley holes.

The screwdriver was being pushed against the PS pump body, so nothing real delicate.

The crank pulley itself didn't come off that easily, so I used a three-arm gear puller from Sears. The center bolt (you turn it to pull off the gear/pulley you're trying to remove) was smaller than the crank bolt I just took out, so I think I just stuck a socket in the hole for the bolt to push against.
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  #7  
Old 01-06-2003, 12:25 PM
mattski mattski is offline
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I was skiing with an acquaintance last week and we were comparing the timing belt jobs we had recently done on our Legacies while riding on the lift. I proudly commented on the tool I made to take the drive pulley off - a piece of wood with bolts through it to engage the holes in the pulley, a hole in the center for the socket, and a wood handle to hold. He laughed and told me that he put a socket on the bolt, put a long extension on it, and rolled the car (forward or back ?) so that the crank turned while his extension rested (padded) against the fender.

Simple and effective.

Matt
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  #8  
Old 01-07-2003, 10:12 AM
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Matt,

That's pretty nice if you got a 5 spd.

Or lock-up switch under the dash.
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