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#1
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Cold starting...
My SVX luckily starts in all weather conditions. From the 101 degree day in july in NYC, to the 3 degree (-25 with wind chill) last night. Runs the same in all conditions. Warms up in the same amount of time, although in sub zero temps, it seems to create a bit more vibration during the first minute of warming up. Temperature gauge always stays at the milimeter below the middle of the gauge when fully warmed up. Cool.
But I was wondering, since the engine idle jumps to almost 2k RPM right when you turn the key, and then settles to 1.5k while warming and slowing going lower, is warming up even nessassary anymore? Like, is it okay if I drive it immediately after I start it as long as I keep the revs below, say, 2,250 RPM until it's fully warmed up? A friend told me NO NO NO NO NO!!! The oil isn't fully running through the engine yet, and that makes it metal to metal contact. But if the car hits 2k RPM right when it starts up, why can't I drive it softly? Wouldn't the spinking of RPMs while driving softly actually accelerate the oil flow safely? Basically, what are all y'all routines for warming up your SVXs? Do you wait for it to be fully warm, or do you just start and drive? And is the "metal on metal" thing true, or just a myth fit only for older cars? Just want to know so I can keep my SvX running well for a good, long time... Any input greatly appreciated. |
#2
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my 2 cents for what its worth
What he is saying about the oil not flowing is absolutely correct, in EXTREME EXTREME cold, I have known the oil to be actually tacky. And I have known a case where the pistons were scored quite badly b/c of extreme cold and the fact that the car was run immediatly after starting. But its not like it takes long for the oil to loosen up. Just start it and give it 2 minutes. Metal on metal is a terrible terrible thing, if you accelerate the movements of the pistons, while true, your accelerating the time it will take the oil to flow, your also accelerating the heat in the engine block BEFORE the oil is there, leaving you quite easily with scored pistons. I HAVE seen cars damaged by this before.
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#3
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I did the cold test with synthetic oil vs conventional oil.
It was -33°C and both containers of oil were left outside overnight. I first poured the synthetic oil into my engine and it poured like honey. I then had to actually squeeze the other container to get any oil out of it. Needless to say the conventional oil did not go in my engine and all I ever use is synthetic.
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#4
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Quote:
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#5
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Quote:
As someone said earlier in this thread...if your engine is subject to extreme use or temperatures, synthetic is a great way to go for extra protection. |
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