Alternator replacement, tools needed

[drivemusicnow]

Ok, so i finally got the alternator, but I still don't have any tools with me. I should be able to borrow some from work, but I would need to know exactly which tools I need. heres what I need to know

Tensioner pulley bolt size
I know the tensioner bolt
the 2 actual alternator bracket bolts...

what am I forgetting?

[SVXer95]

Originally posted by drivemusicnow
Ok, so i finally got the alternator, but I still don't have any tools with me. I should be able to borrow some from work, but I would need to know exactly which tools I need. heres what I need to know

Tensioner pulley bolt size
I know the tensioner bolt
the 2 actual alternator bracket bolts...

what am I forgetting?

Don't remember the exact sizes...but you should just grab some sockets, 10-15mm should do it, and some extensions. I think the pulley is 15 and tensioner bolt is 12. Battery is 10. Just grab them all just in case. Brackets are either 12, 13, or 14. I would go with 3/8" drive.

[lee]

hi greg,

First gotta say thanks for posting this question. I went out to check sizes and I found my tensioner pulley had the central/bearing nut loose, might well have caused havoc - got any more good questions I can research?

Anyway, you need a 10mm to get off the belt cover/plastic belt shroud (whatever it's called). You'll need 12 mm for the tensioner pulley (bolt thru bearing) and the long tensioning bolt. The upper bracket bolt (side near A/C) is also a 12mm (I admit I didn't physically check past this point). If you have to exchange the pulley then I think it's either a 23 or 24mm (21mm is as big as I have at home - 15/16" fit pretty good - I test fitted that). I didn't try them all, but it looks to me that if your new alt comes with a pulley, you can do the job with 10 & 12 mm sockets - and rachet of course.

good luck.

Alternately (as opposed to alternatorly), you could drive down to my house & we could do it in a nice warm garage with plenty of tools (warm because the garage A/C unit failed & my wife won't let me replace it - says I'm a wuss).

[Earthworm]

I used 10mm and 12mm wrenchs, 12mm socket w/ratchet and a pry bar to get the alternator loose on the long bolt side (plastic sleeves made it very toight).

[drivemusicnow]

Thankyou all... and Lee, I'd watch out... I might take you up on that offer... it was 20* today

i know this has bbeen brought up before, but i'm not sure exactly what the details are.

When putting a new alternator in the car, you need teh battery to be fully charged, correct?
I have a pretty normal duralast or some such battery in the car right now, that has been sitting in a parking garage for 2 weeks now. it didn't have enough power to push the window all they way up then, when I shut it off.

here are my options as of now.
Buy a battery charger from a local store, hope theirs a plug with in reaching distance, charge the stock battery for an hour or so while i'm putting in the alternator, (which will take 5 minutes) and hope that i don't screw the new alt up (has a warranty, i just don't like being without my car again)

Buy a cheapo (still like 60$) walmart battery new, hook that up, charge up my old one as a spare

buy a yellow top battery for 130$ from autozone. (redtop is 110)

the last 2 are probably better options, but more expensive, the first one just seems... shaky. i would rather not spend the money though

any suggestions/advice/obvious things i'm forgetting?

generaly the new gen subarus use 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm. Ocasionally you get an 8mm, or 19mm, but when you get to needing those you ought to have at least a toolset.

[SVXer95]

Originally posted by drivemusicnow
Thankyou all... and Lee, I'd watch out... I might take you up on that offer... it was 20* today

i know this has bbeen brought up before, but i'm not sure exactly what the details are.

When putting a new alternator in the car, you need teh battery to be fully charged, correct?
I have a pretty normal duralast or some such battery in the car right now, that has been sitting in a parking garage for 2 weeks now. it didn't have enough power to push the window all they way up then, when I shut it off.

here are my options as of now.
Buy a battery charger from a local store, hope theirs a plug with in reaching distance, charge the stock battery for an hour or so while i'm putting in the alternator, (which will take 5 minutes) and hope that i don't screw the new alt up (has a warranty, i just don't like being without my car again)

Buy a cheapo (still like 60$) walmart battery new, hook that up, charge up my old one as a spare

buy a yellow top battery for 130$ from autozone. (redtop is 110)

the last 2 are probably better options, but more expensive, the first one just seems... shaky. i would rather not spend the money though

any suggestions/advice/obvious things i'm forgetting?

Greg,

Yes, the battery should be fully charged, or at least have a decent amount of charge left in it. (Not DEAD!) Make sure you don't rev the engine when you first start it if it is not fully charged. You don't want to ruin the brand new rectifier!

In your case, with the amount of electronics you are running, it would probably be best to go ahead and buy the deep cycle. A little more money, but with the draw that you are pulling, it will last longer. I personally have a red-top and love it.

[lee]

Originally posted by drivemusicnow
Thankyou all... and Lee, I'd watch out... I might take you up on that offer... it was 20* today

The offer is open...although some arctic cold front is moving in and they claim it might go to an overnite low around 40 beachside on Monday - high should still be in the mid-60s tho'.