Barfing radiator

JeffN · #1 03-03-2003, 08:03 PM

OK, what's the typical problem-repair for a heaving radiator? Thermostat, Boil out(possible or is it plastic) or should I just replace the 11 y.o. 85k rad? Thanks

kuoh · #2 03-03-2003, 08:06 PM

What exactly is the problem? A leak of some sort? It's hard to guess from your description.

KuoH

JeffN · #3 03-03-2003, 08:41 PM

The rad was dripping very slowly after a good 10 mile ride and discovered the overflow tube under the cap broke off and had developed a slow drip.

Today, in 20' weather, it puked it guts out after a full warmup. I wasn't there so didn't see where it came from. sounds like time for a new one.

CDG · #4 03-03-2003, 09:02 PM

you better get it looked at properly, a puking radiator usually points to a bad thermostat, but the thermostat can usually be toasted by a lack of coolant, and high preasure steam messing it up, so if your coolant was low, and perhaps not enough anti-freeze, then you may have toasted both your rad and the stat.

Check the top of the rad(plastic part, look for cracks, I've seen 3 with cracked rad tops already(the 3 test drives I took from dealer cars, nice eh).

Try to do a preasure test, if you can get it to a shop. takes them about 2 minutes to do.

JeffN · #5 03-03-2003, 09:48 PM

My mech is like a pal so no sweat. Any idea on new rad costs? I may just replace it Thanks

We did a coolant change but that was 5 yrs and 15k ago

CDG · #6 03-03-2003, 10:37 PM

make sure you get the 96 rad, as it has the screen removed from the trany cooling tube.
Ok, just looked at a receipt from my maintinance records, and the previous owner paid $389.63 after a 15% discount from the dealer, part number listed was 45199PA001.

I hope you can find it cheaper, but thats what the dealer charges.

JeffN · #7 03-04-2003, 05:59 AM

Thanks loads, that is a load of $$...about 7% the car's value...

svx_commuter · #8 03-04-2003, 06:14 AM

Jeff,

If you search around, there was a post about getting radiators cheaper from a mail order place. OEM at about 1/2 the price. I bought mine from Liberty Subaru for 25% off.

You may also want to get a CO test for a head leak.

John

cbx-man · #9 03-04-2003, 01:02 PM

The first thing to do is definitely replace the radiator. Your leakage is the coolant that *should* be going to the expansion tank. If air has been ingested into the cooling system you will get the burping and gushing symptoms and the heater won't give reliable heat. I had similar symptoms from a bad water pump and thought it could be a blown head gasket. New water pump (no more air into the system) and all is good.

JeffN · #10 03-04-2003, 01:31 PM

Aftermarket as good as factory Subes?

svx_commuter · #11 03-04-2003, 01:32 PM

I guess I missed a point here.

If your radiator only has a broken over flow tube, this attaches to the fill spout, then glue it back on. It is low pressure and with the correct glue it should last a long time. Something most likely fell on it and broke it.

There was a post awhile ago about using glue to repair a really broken radiator. It said which glue was the best.

Beav · #12 03-04-2003, 03:55 PM

For broken tube repair go here:

www.airsept.com

CDG · #13 03-04-2003, 05:35 PM

I think the 3 cars I test drove all had rads repaired with this glue idea. But I'm sure that it doesn't last forever. Have the rad preasure tested.

I like the sounds of it being a water pump rather than a head gasket. But hope its only your overflow tube thats broken. Good luck.

Oh, and make sure they preasure test the rad cap too.

JeffN · #14 03-04-2003, 06:12 PM

The overflow tube is gone with a clean break at the neck but this shouldn't cause air in or out as the end of the hose from that tube is open anyways.

I think concurrently, the radiator is stuffed after 11 years althougth we've flushed the system twice.

JeffN · #15 03-05-2003, 07:52 AM

OK, no availability at the cheapo guys so 389.63 for a new sube 96 rad. Sound decent?