Solenoid C

[Cam]

Is there a write up on replacing solenoid C? If not, I am willing to make one when I replace mine. There are other things down there that should be replaced as well, so if anyone has a suggestion, I am all ears. I plan on replacing sol. C, the internal filter, the gasket for the pan, and my actual pan since it is dented. Anything else I should replace?

[92 SVX]

Originally Posted by Cam

Is there a write up on replacing solenoid C? If not, I am willing to make one when I replace mine. There are other things down there that should be replaced as well, so if anyone has a suggestion, I am all ears. I plan on replacing sol. C, the internal filter, the gasket for the pan, and my actual pan since it is dented. Anything else I should replace?

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...9&postcount=12


here is what was told to me

[icingdeath88]

I don't think there is a How-to on Sol C, but it has been asked about several times.

[svxum2teal]

I for one would really appreciate a writeup of this!

I just had a used transmission put in my '92 (picked it up yesterday) and it has been giving the code '24' ever since! I did not think I had the capabilities or equipment to replace the whole transmission... but I do think a solenoid replacement may be possible for me.

Have you thought of changing the transer plates also? I am not sure what it takes to do those, but I saw that as a recomendation if the 'Duty Solenoid C' had been a problem for a while? (I am still reasearching all this - any help is greatly appreciated!)

Regards,

Mitch

[Cam]

I am still doing research as well. But, since there is no write up I can find I will be sure to document the process, and submit it to earl. I am going to try and include any reasonable preventative maintenance while I an in there.

If anybody has tips or tricks that they would like to share, post them here or PM me.

Much appreciated guys.

[1986nate]

Okay, not all of this is necessary, but is basically the easiest process and most times, does not cause any issues with the exhaust no matter how old it is or if it's in the salt belt.

Drop the exhaust: Unbolt exhaust from hanger on rear of transmission, unbolt hangers from floor pans and unbolt the clamp that attaches the muffler to the exhaust piping. This allows the exhaust to hang down a bit enough to maneuver the needed parts out of the way. Unbolting at the spring bolt setup is also an option.

Unbolt and remove heat shield

Unbolt driveshaft from the rear diff flange-4 12mm nuts. Unbolt driveshaft carrier bearing from body and remove.
(note, if you have the 2 piece driveshaft on your SVX, usually only in L AWD models, it may have a 2 piece driveshaft allowing you to unbolt at the flange just past the carrier bearing)

Unbolt transmission crossmember from body, unbolt the crossmember from the transfer extension housing and remove (not completely necessary if only doing the C solenoid swap)

Remove transfer extension housing bolts and also removing the exhaust hanger from the ext. housing helps as well.
Using a 12" extension will help removing the top bolts on the transfer extension housing

Using a screwdriver or something else to get in between the transmission case and the extension housing, carefully pry the extension off and get it a few inches away and then carefully unclip the C solendoid wiring "harness" and then pull the ext housing away with transfer clutches as well.
Be careful to also make sure that the thrust and needle bearings do not get lost!

That's the gist of it. Installation can be a little tricky since getting all of the transfer clutch discs/plates to line up can be tricky.

Hope that helps, but doing it this way, it can be done even lying on the driveway with the car on jackstands.

Maybe tomorrow I'll get pics up showing what a bad transfer clutch drum and thrust bearing looks like. A dead give away that there is a problem

[92 SVX]

Originally Posted by 1986nate

Okay, not all of this is necessary, but is basically the easiest process and most times, does not cause any issues with the exhaust no matter how old it is or if it's in the salt belt.

Drop the exhaust: Unbolt exhaust from hanger on rear of transmission, unbolt hangers from floor pans and unbolt the clamp that attaches the muffler to the exhaust piping. This allows the exhaust to hang down a bit enough to maneuver the needed parts out of the way. Unbolting at the spring bolt setup is also an option.

Unbolt and remove heat shield

Unbolt driveshaft from the rear diff flange-4 12mm nuts. Unbolt driveshaft carrier bearing from body and remove.
(note, if you have the 2 piece driveshaft on your SVX, usually only in L AWD models, it may have a 2 piece driveshaft allowing you to unbolt at the flange just past the carrier bearing)

Unbolt transmission crossmember from body, unbolt the crossmember from the transfer extension housing and remove (not completely necessary if only doing the C solenoid swap)

Remove transfer extension housing bolts and also removing the exhaust hanger from the ext. housing helps as well.
Using a 12" extension will help removing the top bolts on the transfer extension housing

Using a screwdriver or something else to get in between the transmission case and the extension housing, carefully pry the extension off and get it a few inches away and then carefully unclip the C solendoid wiring "harness" and then pull the ext housing away with transfer clutches as well.
Be careful to also make sure that the thrust and needle bearings do not get lost!

That's the gist of it. Installation can be a little tricky since getting all of the transfer clutch discs/plates to line up can be tricky.

Hope that helps, but doing it this way, it can be done even lying on the driveway with the car on jackstands.

Maybe tomorrow I'll get pics up showing what a bad transfer clutch drum and thrust bearing looks like. A dead give away that there is a problem

Yes it can that is what I ended up doing

[svxum2teal]

Thank you for the great write up!

Originally Posted by 1986nate

[svxfiles]

Nice write up, CB!
If you don't mind I will add a few things.
"Okay, not all of this is necessary, but is basically the easiest process and most times, does not cause any issues with the exhaust no matter how old it is or if it's in the salt belt.

Drop the exhaust: Unbolt exhaust from hanger on rear of transmission, unbolt hangers from floor pans and unbolt the clamp that attaches the muffler to the exhaust piping. This allows the exhaust to hang down a bit enough to maneuver the needed parts out of the way. Unbolting at the spring bolt setup is also an option.

Unbolt and remove heat shield

Unbolt driveshaft from the rear diff flange-4 12mm nuts.
Unbolt driveshaft carrier bearing from body and remove.
(note, if you have the 2 piece driveshaft on your SVX, usually only in L AWD models, it may have a 2 piece driveshaft allowing you to unbolt at the flange just past the carrier bearing)

Unbolt transmission crossmember from body, unbolt the crossmember from the transfer extension housing and remove.
Remove transfer extension housing bolts and also removing the exhaust hanger from the ext. housing helps as well.
Using a 12" extension will help removing the top bolts on the transfer extension housing

Using two blade scrapers to get in between the transmission case and the extension housing, carefully pry the extension off and get it a few inches away and then, before you unclip the green wire, grab /clamp it with a pair of hemostats on the transmission side to keep it from dissapearing into the transmission body carefully unclip the C solendoid wiring "harness" and then pull the ext housing away with transfer clutches as well.
Be careful to also make sure that the thrust and needle bearings do not get lost!
When/if the parking pawl falls out, or the parking pawl spring falls out, just remember that the spring holds the parking pawl AWAY from the drum.That's the gist of it. Installation can be a little tricky since getting all of the transfer clutch discs/plates to line up can be tricky.
If as you reinstall the tailshaft housing it binds,(and it will)use the driveshaft to turn the output shaft to line up the clutch plates. Constantly turning the output shaft REALLY helps it come together!

Hope that helps, but doing it this way, it can be done even lying on the driveway with the car on jackstands."

[Cam]

You guys have done most the work for me already . Thanks guys. I will take some good pictures, and hopefully you will see it in the how-to section soon. Gotta get my engine running perfect first. Looks like it may need some updated software.

Files, do you have a list of everything you recommend replacing while the extension housing is off?

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by Cam

You guys have done most the work for me already . Thanks guys. I will take some good pictures, and hopefully you will see it in the how-to section soon. Gotta get my engine running perfect first. Looks like it may need some updated software.

Files, do you have a list of everything you recommend replacing while the extension housing is off?

Jack up the radiator cap and replace everything else!
Just kidding.

[svxfiles]

2 31377AA010 Use 31377aa180 $0.00 $0.00 $0.00

1 31337AA120 Gasket Trans Case Re $5.10 $3.89 $3.89

1 31942AA070 Pt040396 Vlv Ay Trf $132.43 $100.91 $100.92

1 31952AA030 Plate Transfer Valve $1.91 $1.45 $1.45

2 31954AA071 Gasket Transfer Valv $1.88 $1.19 $2.38

Subtotal: $108.64

[Cam]

Much appreciated. Nice joke too, btw

[1986nate]

Good additions Tom. As I said in our chat, I don't remember everything as it's become second nature for me it seems.

[Huskymaniac]

Can someone please verify that the solenoid part number is 31942AA061 and not 31942AA070 that Tom listed above. I get 061 from the Subaru web site.

Also, how much fluid will drain?