"Precious Reduex"

[SomethingElse]

I wanted to start a thread for my overhaul, since many of you have already have or want to do it, I welcome all to make suggestions or throw any Ideas out there.

Spent nearly all weekend in preparation for paint. I think I got all that I can removed before I tow her in. I contemplated a silver bottom two tone Idea but being an anniversary I didnt want to tamper to much, then again its getting a 5 speed...dont know yet.

Any suggestions for what I should tell the body shop? I need it to last forever and ever. Brand of paint? coats? clear coats? Im not sure what to ask for as I have not done this yet.

Dam its ugly!

[SilverSpear]

I dunno, maybe today I am not feeling good, but is your car Burgundy or Red?

[SomethingElse]

Originally Posted by SilverSpear

I dunno, maybe today I am not feeling good, but is your car Burgundy or Red?

Its red, just like the other 299 of them

the clearcoat has been peeling very severely badly majorly totally.

[SilverSpear]

Originally Posted by SomethingElse

Its red, just like the other 299 of them

the clearcoat has been peeling very severely badly majorly totally.

Well first of all you should be looking for a good bodyshop place. They are the experts in this and not you and me.

I am no expert in this, but sometimes when you look at paintjobs on cars, especially silver, you can notice a difference in color from one part to another. This is due to the fact that they save on materials in some areas of a car where they leave small dots and spots on bondo and do not apply the basecoat before paint. The final paintjob would look dark in some spots and light in other....

This subject has been opened before on the forum, I say again I am no expert in this, but for my next paintjob I will ask for the following:

- Doing the bodywork first.
- Applying bondo and sanding it
- Applying the basecoat, twice.
- Sanding it again and check for issues
- Applying bondo again and sanding it.
- Two basecoats again, sanding them to perfection
- Two coats of dark silver
- Checking for issues, maybe sanding it if any imperfections exist
- Four layers of Silver
- Four layers of clearcoat
- Sanding (1500) the clearcoat and remove bugs and impurities
- One final layer of clearcoat
- After a month, polishing the car.

I think one of the good brands you have is Dupont, but German paints are reputed to having the smallest paint particules and best in the world. The smaller the particule the smoother the paint looks and feels Factory

I again say I might be wrong, I am no expert in this, I think you should be asking Jerry...

[biggrizz]

uuhhhhhhhhhhh....no.

if you are doing a complete paint job and having a bodyshop do it...the entire car will match. The color just doesn't come from one can, the mix several different components on a scale to get the color that you are looking for. Silver and White hide imperfections in the bodywork rather well where as black and red make it really stand out. The quality of the paint job depends on the quality of the prep work. If you have dents, fix them. Do NOT put bondo over a newly painted base coat...ever...you want good adhesion to the body. You'll want to make sure that all the old clear coat and some of the orignal paint is sanded down smooth. Do not go all the way to the metal, again you want a good base for the new product to ADHERE too. Unless you are doing welding or have major dents you might just want to invest in some Glaze. (I use Dolphin brand...it sets up quick and sands easy. I also use Rage plastic filler, bondo is cheap and gross)

Spend the money and get a good primer. $150-250/gallon good primer. You should only need 1 can. Once this has been sprayed you can block and sand to make the panels perfect. Repainting an entire car is some serious labor.

This era of cars all have delamination (or adhesion failure) problems with the paint. This is because the whole industry tried to cut weight and basically watered down the paint from the factory.

Again, plan on spending literally days, if not weeks prepping the car for paint. If you do this, even a cheapy Maaco paint job will work and look great.

Good luck in your project.

[SomethingElse]

Sorry, my wording may have been misleading. Im going to let the body shop do all of the paint work. Have them fill in the dents and do all the sanding, everything.

I just wanted to get it to the point where they wont have to dismantle anything.

[RSVX]

Precious really deserves this! I am glad you have the means that I did not!

The only color change I ever toyed with was the black/red. But then it is an anniversary edition.

I cant wait to see her when shes done.

[redlightningsvx]

If you just want to dismantle it for them remove the bumpers, and if they are going to spray the door jambs remove all of the interior panels that are touching the jamb. Other than that you pretty much have everything off. Good luck.

[SomethingElse]

Originally Posted by RSVX

Precious really deserves this! I am glad you have the means that I did not!

The only color change I ever toyed with was the black/red. But then it is an anniversary edition.

I cant wait to see her when shes done.

me neither, sorry it took so long for me to start it. I feel very motivated to complete her before reading. I already know im going to love this car...it has the smell...Ive only smelled it on one other car I owned but thats now my wifes car. its a strong leathery scent.

Originally Posted by redlightningsvx

If you just want to dismantle it for them remove the bumpers, and if they are going to spray the door jambs remove all of the interior panels that are touching the jamb. Other than that you pretty much have everything off. Good luck.

The bumpers are basically removed just 2 17mm bolts in each one that have already been out, but they holding them on for transport.

Will the door jambs need to be painted? Its going to stay the same color, so I didnt think it would be needed?

The body shop im taking it too does outstanding work. Ive seen a totaled car reborn though them. If you didnt know it was totaled you wouldnt have known.

[redlightningsvx]

I say door jambs because sometimes they can get scratches and stuff in them and now would be a good time to do them if they are. But if you don't need the jambs painted they will probably use foam tape to fill the gap in between the quarter panel and door which will leave a nasty rough edge which will have to be hand rubbed with compound to get is smooth, This is something to watch for. I'm restoring mine myself as we speak and doing and overall paintjob myself but 2 tone, Hopefully by Reading also. Good luck.

[SVXMAN2001]

also will want to remove the outer weatherstripping along the door and rear quarter glass. Definately don't want the paintshop to just mask that portion off...

[Mike621]

Eric,

I sent you some pertinent info via PM. I hope it helps.

[SilverSpear]

Originally Posted by biggrizz

Silver and White hide imperfections in the bodywork rather well where as black and red make it really stand out. The quality of the paint job depends on the quality of the prep work. If you have dents, fix them. Do NOT put bondo over a newly painted base coat...ever...you want good adhesion to the body. You'll want to make sure that all the old clear coat and some of the orignal paint is sanded down smooth. Do not go all the way to the metal, again you want a good base for the new product to ADHERE too. Unless you are doing welding or have major dents you might just want to invest in some Glaze. (I use Dolphin brand...it sets up quick and sands easy. I also use Rage plastic filler, bondo is cheap and gross)

As I said again, I recommend you apply a dark color before Red and check it out for imperfections. Maybe a burgundy will do the trick.

[biggrizz]

SilverSpear

The base coat should be "PRIMER" you can tint it a shade of the color you are going for. I think you are getting your "BASE COAT" and your "GUIDE COAT" terminology mixed up.

[SilverSpear]

Originally Posted by biggrizz

SilverSpear

The base coat should be "PRIMER" you can tint it a shade of the color you are going for. I think you are getting your "BASE COAT" and your "GUIDE COAT" terminology mixed up.

That we agree on... Primer, base coat, etc... but after the final Primer/base coat you should apply a dark color ie Burgundy, check for imperfections (on a dark actual paint color), then do the red one...