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  #1  
Old 11-14-2007, 07:28 PM
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Myxalplyx Myxalplyx is offline
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Tracing Electrical Drain - Battery Dies

Now that the car is garaged for repairs, I'd like to start off with my electrical problem. I am not sure if I posted about this before but I can't find it if I did. My battery dies after being attached for 24hrs. I need to find the culprit.

I hate anything electrically related. A voltmeter is in my garage ready to be used. No lights are on in the car and nothing jumps out as a possibility of drawing electricity. I need to get this fixed as I have to disconnect the battery everytime I finish driving the car.

My question is....how do I start this search on what is draining my battery? I have never done this before. Thanks for any guidance.

Note: Not sure if this has anything to do with it (and I believe it shouldn't) but the positive terminal is connected to the alternator. I've done this with 2 XT6s and my Impreze and it has been great. I think it was already done by Chike when I got the car (Scratching head..bad memory).
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1997 2.2ltr Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Wagon (AWD/Auto) 13.03@100mph
1989 2.7ltr Subaru XT6 (AWD/Auto) 15.912@85.93mph
1996 3.3ltr SVX (AWD/Auto) 15.070@91.38mph
***R.I.P***
2010 RAV4 AWD Sport (13.717 @ 99.19mph )
2015 Honda Fit LX CVT (15.2 @ 90mph)

Last edited by Myxalplyx; 11-14-2007 at 07:30 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-14-2007, 07:31 PM
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Wikedjuggalo Wikedjuggalo is offline
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hmmm not sure but check the alternator
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  #3  
Old 11-14-2007, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wikedjuggalo View Post
hmmm not sure but check the alternator

Just found this on the internet-->

"Start at the fuse box. Connect an amp meter in line at the battery, and start pulling fuses and breakers. If you still have an amp draw, disconnect the voltage regulator, if external. If this removes the draw replace it. If you still have the drain, disconnect the alternator. If disconnecting the alternator removes the drain, replace the alternator. Replace fuses and breakers one at a time, checking amp meter each time, and you should find your drain."

Thinking I may try this sometime before now and Friday. Just want opinions from the experienced here.
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1997 2.2ltr Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Wagon (AWD/Auto) 13.03@100mph
1989 2.7ltr Subaru XT6 (AWD/Auto) 15.912@85.93mph
1996 3.3ltr SVX (AWD/Auto) 15.070@91.38mph
***R.I.P***
2010 RAV4 AWD Sport (13.717 @ 99.19mph )
2015 Honda Fit LX CVT (15.2 @ 90mph)
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  #4  
Old 11-14-2007, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myxalplyx View Post
Just found this on the internet-->

"Start at the fuse box. Connect an amp meter in line at the battery, and start pulling fuses and breakers. If you still have an amp draw, disconnect the voltage regulator, if external. If this removes the draw replace it. If you still have the drain, disconnect the alternator. If disconnecting the alternator removes the drain, replace the alternator. Replace fuses and breakers one at a time, checking amp meter each time, and you should find your drain."

Thinking I may try this sometime before now and Friday. Just want opinions from the experienced here.
Most of the time when the battery just drains like that I have heard it being the alternator. I mean alternator went out on my brothers car and well, kinda did the same thing. I just know what the alternator does and if its faulty usually drains the battery. Someone can and probably correct me about something I wrote :P
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1994 SVX L - FWD Barcelona Red 190K miles ~ SOLD

1994 SVX LS - 5spd AWD Emerald Green 202k miles PWR Radiator, HID 5000k, New paint job with issues, 17" STI BBS wheels, converted to 5spd AWD from FWD. Purchased from SVXyGirl 2/20/09 -- Undergoing complete rebuild
1993 Justy 4wd 5door- Teal of sorts , beater.
2008 OBXT Newport Pearl 65k miles
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  #5  
Old 11-14-2007, 07:39 PM
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I had my outside key hole light stay on and wouldn't go off until i finally disconnected it but it shouldn't drain the batery that quick
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  #6  
Old 11-14-2007, 07:46 PM
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Also, just thought of it, are your fans for the radiator running? probably not but check. Also auto zone or advance auto test alternators for free, not sure which but best to check.
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1994 SVX L - FWD Barcelona Red 190K miles ~ SOLD

1994 SVX LS - 5spd AWD Emerald Green 202k miles PWR Radiator, HID 5000k, New paint job with issues, 17" STI BBS wheels, converted to 5spd AWD from FWD. Purchased from SVXyGirl 2/20/09 -- Undergoing complete rebuild
1993 Justy 4wd 5door- Teal of sorts , beater.
2008 OBXT Newport Pearl 65k miles
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  #7  
Old 11-14-2007, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wikedjuggalo View Post
Also, just thought of it, are your fans for the radiator running? probably not but check. Also auto zone or advance auto test alternators for free, not sure which but best to check.
I'm doing these tests now-->
"Remove the negative side battery cable from the negative battery terminal.
Attach a 12-volt test light between the negative cable and the negative battery post. wait a few seconds to several minutes for the car to go into sleep mode. i.e. when you make the contact with the test light the cars computer systems "wake up" after a bit of time they will go to "sleep".
If the test light is burning brightly, something is using too much battery power.
Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings)last.
Watch for the 12V test light to go out. The fuse that shuts off the light is the draw. Consult the owners' manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse.
Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain.
Repeat steps 1&2 to test your repair. The test lamp should be dark or very dim when battery draw is acceptable. "

From: http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain

Disconnected the alternator already and it tested out ok. Now disconnecting fuses underneath the steering wheel. Already disconnected all the ones in the engine bay, driver's side. Instead of using a light, I'm using a voltmeter to test for voltage.
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1997 2.2ltr Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Wagon (AWD/Auto) 13.03@100mph
1989 2.7ltr Subaru XT6 (AWD/Auto) 15.912@85.93mph
1996 3.3ltr SVX (AWD/Auto) 15.070@91.38mph
***R.I.P***
2010 RAV4 AWD Sport (13.717 @ 99.19mph )
2015 Honda Fit LX CVT (15.2 @ 90mph)
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  #8  
Old 11-14-2007, 08:20 PM
NiftySVX NiftySVX is offline
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you need an ammeter to do this test. A test light will not suffice. Each different car has it's own parisitic draw spec, but anything over about 800 mA is way too much. Standard procedure is to start removing fuses while observing the meter until you find the one that really drops the draw.
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  #9  
Old 11-14-2007, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiftySVX View Post
you need an ammeter to do this test. A test light will not suffice. Each different car has it's own parisitic draw spec, but anything over about 800 mA is way too much. Standard procedure is to start removing fuses while observing the meter until you find the one that really drops the draw.
An Ammeter? Are there voltmeters that have a setting to be an Ammeter? Talk to me like I am a 6 year old because I don't have a clue.

What I just did is hook the voltmeter up to the negative terminal of the battery and the other end to a negative battery cable. I had a reading of -12.16 volts. I removed all of the fuses one by one underneath the dash, looked at voltage reading and replaced. The volts never changed. These are the fuses I removed-->


• R-Def
• EGI Unit AT Unit
• Heater
• F-Wiper
• DR-Lock
• Heater
• Tail Clearance
• Stop Horn
• ABS Solenoid
• F-Fog
• R-Wiper
• Cruise ABS
• Cigar Mirror
• (Tel)
• Radio
• Wiper Washer
• Illumi
• E/G IGN SRS Airbag
• BackTurn
• SRS Air Bag
• Meter SRS Lamp



So...how do I know I have an ammeter or a setting to switch my volt meter to test amps? If not possible, sigh. I'll pick up one on Friday. Thanks for the advice.
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Kevin Thomas
1997 2.2ltr Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Wagon (AWD/Auto) 13.03@100mph
1989 2.7ltr Subaru XT6 (AWD/Auto) 15.912@85.93mph
1996 3.3ltr SVX (AWD/Auto) 15.070@91.38mph
***R.I.P***
2010 RAV4 AWD Sport (13.717 @ 99.19mph )
2015 Honda Fit LX CVT (15.2 @ 90mph)
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  #10  
Old 11-14-2007, 08:57 PM
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Above is a picture of the device I am using, minus the blue dial on the bottom left. I have all the same reading/numbers that are around that dial. There is even a '10A' part on the bottom right. Where should I put the dial to test for amperage? At the '10A' part or somewhere else?
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Kevin Thomas
1997 2.2ltr Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Wagon (AWD/Auto) 13.03@100mph
1989 2.7ltr Subaru XT6 (AWD/Auto) 15.912@85.93mph
1996 3.3ltr SVX (AWD/Auto) 15.070@91.38mph
***R.I.P***
2010 RAV4 AWD Sport (13.717 @ 99.19mph )
2015 Honda Fit LX CVT (15.2 @ 90mph)
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  #11  
Old 11-14-2007, 10:01 PM
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Kevin, you are doing well,

The fact that the voltmeter is recording battery voltage indicates that a path to ground exists and which is passing current. The voltmeter is a sensitive instrument which has very little internal resistance and therefore draws very little current. This means that the path to ground could be of relatively high resistance, but it will represent a load on the battery as soon as it is reconnected.

An ammeter connected in place of the voltmeter will indicate the amount of current flowing, thus providing an accurate measure of the leakage. You should switch your mutimeter it to the 10 amps range and put the test lead plugs in the sockets for common and 10 amp .

Think of current as quantity flowing, and volts as the pressure of the flow. If the reading is below half an amp switch to the milli amps range and change the relative plug connection.

Your current voltage tests shows that the current drain is likely to be outside of all fused circuits. This leaves the alternator which is only protected via the fuse link, or more correctly should be. As it would appear that a direct connection has been installed this protection no longer exists and you have a dangerous situation. Refer my locker for full information.

Your next step is to completely disconnect the alternator while the meter is connected as previously, but this time working as an ammeter. If there is a drop in the current registered you have found the culprit.

If not, again using the amps range check as before and report the current drain registered on any circuit.

You will get there and assistance is on hand.
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Last edited by Trevor; 11-14-2007 at 10:06 PM.
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  #12  
Old 11-16-2007, 06:00 AM
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Myxalplyx Myxalplyx is offline
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Thank you Trevor for your feedback on this. I am at work now and yesterday was hectic. I plan on working at it late tonight.
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Kevin Thomas
1997 2.2ltr Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Wagon (AWD/Auto) 13.03@100mph
1989 2.7ltr Subaru XT6 (AWD/Auto) 15.912@85.93mph
1996 3.3ltr SVX (AWD/Auto) 15.070@91.38mph
***R.I.P***
2010 RAV4 AWD Sport (13.717 @ 99.19mph )
2015 Honda Fit LX CVT (15.2 @ 90mph)
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  #13  
Old 02-27-2008, 11:10 PM
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found it... I think. When I got in the car tonight to bring it into the shop for some lacking AWD diagnosis and repair amongst other things... I got in to no lights So I jumped the car with the pack and got it running. Whilst in the process I realized something funny about the central locking switch... it was stuck in the lock position. Figuring that Kevin usually hits this upon exiting the car, this would be a good reason he would come back to a dead battery. SO, took the switch out and tested it, and yes indeed the contacts are sticking when the switch has no pressure on it at all. Since it has no automated shut-off control due to the simplicity of the system, it was constantly trying to lock the door thus draining the battery due to the lock mechanism constantly using power. The battery will sit on the charger over night. Tomorrow I will finish up with the repairs, order new mounts...etc. I will also try and leave it sit for a couple days with no central locking switch in place to be absolutely sure this was the power drainage issue and that it can correctly be fixed with a new switch. SO, all you 94+ people.... make sure your switch returns to a neutral position after release

Tom
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  #14  
Old 02-28-2008, 05:00 AM
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Not to get off the topic but it is amazing how by accidentally touching things ( brake lines) trying to figure out problems, aka squeeky noises you can find the problem. YT knows what I am talking about
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  #15  
Old 02-28-2008, 05:40 AM
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Yes, accidently touching thing like brake lines, when the entire rear interior is removed, looking for a squeek, can lead to interesting solutions.

I don't think I've ever used my manual locking feature, other than "ooh, it does have a lock switch! *lock* *unlock* Ok, it works" and then never touching it again.

I like my key fobs
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