anybody got a shop manual..need help!

Allright I'm getting desperate now. I got the "Steering Light" on in my dashboard and no power steering. Ran the error codes and I get a Trouble code 2 "Open in Solenoid system ciruit." Anybody know what this is or how to fix it??? Could somebody look it up in their shop manual. I would really appreciate it.

[SilverSpear]

Originally posted by 96svxer
Allright I'm getting desperate now. I got the "Steering Light" on in my dashboard and no power steering. Ran the error codes and I get a Trouble code 2 "Open in Solenoid system ciruit." Anybody know what this is or how to fix it??? Could somebody look it up in their shop manual. I would really appreciate it.

mmm an electrical problem, couldn't you check the wiring to the steering unit, maybe it's a fuse or solenoid or some burned circuit, check the electrical switches on the steering pump... (don't go so freaked up about it, I think it's not such a bad case, just something about fuses, or open wiring...)

[svxistentialist]

Originally posted by 96svxer
Allright I'm getting desperate now. I got the "Steering Light" on in my dashboard and no power steering. Ran the error codes and I get a Trouble code 2 "Open in Solenoid system ciruit." Anybody know what this is or how to fix it??? Could somebody look it up in their shop manual. I would really appreciate it.

Every time I see the town of Rochester, I remember Jack Benny with a smile. If you are old enough to remember the show, you'll know what I mean.

Your problem is pretty simple to check out. Code 2 means the computer [ECU] thinks the control solenoid attached to the power steering gearbox is bad [broken, not switched on, faulty loom between solenoid and ECU]. So the computer switches off that circuit [failsafe] and you do not have power steering.

If a wire is broken or pulled out, this will be your cheapest fix.

The solenoid valve is a round cylinder attached to the power steering gearbox very close to where the steering column rod and U/J connects to the PS gearbox. It will be easy to find, it has two wires connected to it, connected to terminal1 is yellow/green{or yellow/grey, not sure about the colour codes}, the other for connector 2 is brown & white.

Check first if this connector, called B17 is pulled out or if a wire is broken.

If the wires are OK, you have to check the units. Solenoid first. With ignition OFF, the resistance between terminals 1 & 2 of this connection [not the block, the actual solenoid pins] should be between 5 and 9 Ohms. If not, replace the solenoid.

If it's not the solenoid, then you have to check continuity. It will be either a faulty loom, or a faulty ECU.

Check this lot out first, and come back if you have to investigate further.

Joe

PS this info relates to a '92. If you have a 96, should be the same, although possible wire colours are different. The solenoid and wires will still be in the same place. Good luck with the fix.

Thanks
svxistentialist

Your explanation was perfect., but I have no idea who Jack Benny is...must have been before my day

Here is what I have found. Solenoid checked out. 7 ohms between terminal to terminal. So I started to trace the wires backinto the cabin to see what ECU they fed. Unfortunantly two green/yellow wire run in the same wire loom into the car, and inside the car there are at least three green/yellow wires. Without ripping the car apart does it say which ECU it feed inside? I found two probable places:

One box is mounted directly on and underneath the steering column in the cabin. it has 3 wires feeding it a :
yellow/green wire
black wire
white/red wire

the other box is mounted on the steering column but on the side and has i believe 10 wires on it
Brown/white
white/blue
yellow/green
black
yellow
yellow black
brown/yellow
brown
yellow red
black

I assume it's feeding this later module due to the fact it has both the brown/white wire and the green/yellow wire which are the same colors that feed the solenoid. Is there any way to confirm this?

[svxistentialist]

OKayyyyy

Next move is the loom. Order of component checking is as follows:
1) Solenoid [you've done this]

if OK, next

2)Check harness between ECU and solenoid [this is your next move]

if OK, next

3) Check ECU terminals for poor contact

if OK, next

4) replace ECU

We should not get to 4.

I don't unfortunately have a diagram I can attach for this, so I hope I can describe it clearly.

Your 2 pin connector at the steering solenoid called B17 has the two coloured wired going into your loom, then making their way to the ECU behind the dashboard. The block connector plugging into the ECU that contains these two colours is called B53.

B53 has holes for 16 pins. If you were looking into this block connector, with the clip/locking mechanism to the upper side [it only locks one side] then the correct number sequence for the pins is as follows:

8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9

Your Br/W wire is connected to pin 9, and your Gr/Y wire is connected to pin 11.

First, make sure you plug back in B17 at the steering solenoid. Now check the resistance between pins 9 and 11. It shoud range between 5 and 9 Ohms as at the steering box.

Now check the resistance between pin 9 and the body. You should be seeing 1 MegaOhm minimum.

If you are not getting these figures, the solution is "Repair or Replace Harness"

If the harness checks out OK, then you have to check the ECU connector terminals for poor contact.

If there isn't bad contact and they are all OK, then you replace the ECU.

Joe

Cool Thanks.

Step 1) Done
Step 2) Done
Step 3) Done
Step 4) Not done $$$$$$

I'm thinking it's a broken wire near the firewall. Looks like somebody got a little carried away with a drill and may have split the wire. We will see. If not goodby ECU. I think I saw the 16 wire ECU I will check it tonight. Thanks again for your help....by the way is this all in the shop manual....and if so is it worth buying?

[svxistentialist]

My car is rhd, yours is lhd, so there may be subtle differences, but things will be in similar mirrored positions.

The ECU is a silver box nearly as big as an A5 diary. It is situated [in mine!] way up underneath the dashboard in the driver's footwell. You should find it roughly behind where the mirror heater switch is.

B53 is connected to this, I actually think it has 4 connectors into it, millions of wires.

A word of warning. The manual cautions you not to pull the connectors out by the wires, or damage the connector in any way. I found it very tight, and you need a strong finger squeeze and grip to pull the connectors loose.

When you have it loose and properly identified, you will see that the pins are tiny, and the holes in the connector are very tight. Your ohm-meter, if the pins are big, could push into the holes and not actually make contact, be wary of this. You actually need a dedicated automotive tester with fine pins for this purpose

Best of luck,

Joe

[svxistentialist]

Originally posted by 96svxer
Cool Thanks.

Step 1) Done
Step 2) Done
Step 3) Done
Step 4) Not done $$$$$$

I'm thinking it's a broken wire near the firewall. Looks like somebody got a little carried away with a drill and may have split the wire. We will see. If not goodby ECU. I think I saw the 16 wire ECU I will check it tonight. Thanks again for your help....by the way is this all in the shop manual....and if so is it worth buying?

Yes and yes

[svxistentialist]

Hey 96, if it's a broken or damaged wire as you suspect, a new ECU will still give a fault code. You need to find and repair the break.

Joe

"Hey 96, if it's a broken or damaged wire as you suspect, a new ECU will still give a fault code. You need to find and repair the break "


Oh yeah I know. Not positive it's broken or not yet. Couldn't find the other end of the wire for testing yet. I'm going to do a continuity test on it tonight with my Fluke meter and go from there. I really appreciate your time and effort.

[svxistentialist]

You are welcome.

We have to stick together and keep these things on the road.

[RojoRocket]

96,
Take a look here;
http://seccs.org/tech/manuals/1992_SVX/index.html

Glenn

All right I got Power Steering. I checked continuity between both ends of the connection to ground. and got continuity on both sides.....bad news. The section of wire that runs through the firewall must have cut into the firewall and grounded it'sself out. Ran a new jumper wire and everything is good.......Now onto my wierd acting Alarms system. Everything works fine on it, but it never stops blinking, even when driving. Any ideas......Again thanks to everybody that helped!!! I am very appreciative

[svxistentialist]

Can't help you on this 96. Mine is JDM, wired differently from yours.

Joe