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  #46  
Old 11-30-2012, 05:39 PM
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icingdeath88 icingdeath88 is offline
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Re: EGR

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Originally Posted by EdWindows View Post
Did you try using this?



Combined with a crow's foot wrench, it might do the trick.
Tried it. Problem is partly that it's a fitting, not a bolt, so the fitting is not as sturdy and will strip easier. Now that I'm thinking of it, I might take a torch to it later and see if that does it.

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Originally Posted by EdWindows View Post
EDIT: Sorry if the images are annoying. I'm bored with text. :P
Not at all, but pictures don't last forever, and text does. In a couple days, no one will know that you suggested I try PB blaster, because the URL will be broken.

Also, I added more stuff to my last post, FYI
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  #47  
Old 11-30-2012, 11:07 PM
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Re: EGR

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Originally Posted by icingdeath88 View Post

There's not that much (if any) performance to be gained from removing it though, to be honest. Most EGR systems only open at high vac, and RPMs well above idle, which is basically just when you're cruising. At low vac, high loads, it should stay closed. Recirculating the inert exhaust gas instead of fresh air just reduces the amount of fuel that needs to be injected, which ought to improve mpgs very slightly. I see two main benefits from tossing it: cleaner engine bay, and cleaner engine. The exhaust gas is disgusting, and if you ever look inside port where it goes into the intake manifold, you will cry from how nasty it is.

It also gets rid of a tiny bit of the more toxic by-products of combustion, which I guess it a good thing, but the way it does it is kind of stupid. It lowers the combustion temperature. NOx are formed when O2 and N2 are burned together at very high temps. I guess by diluting the air/fuel mixture with the CO2, H2O and other inert combustion products, it lowers the combustion temp enough to prevent that. Yea, when you burn hydrocarbons, you get CO2, CO, and water. You can think of an EGR as a really retarded water-injection system if it makes you feel better.
Heh, thanks for the lesson on what an EGR does. I took automotive for my first year of college before switching to mechanical engineering.

I guess it's more worthwhile for turbocharged engines to remove it than NA because of the loss of exhaust through the EGR at high rpms; ie more exhaust flow = more boost.

I'm ok with it lowering engine temps. These engines are too damn hot as it is. I have to wait at least 2 hours before working on it unless I point an industrial fan at it on full speed for 20 minutes.

By the way, here's some fun facts since you mentioned the products of combustion: the best performing liquid rocket fuel creates pure water, and the most common solid rocket fuel is aluminum and tire rubber blended together.

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Originally Posted by icingdeath88 View Post
Ed, stop using memes wrong. This isn't Facebook, lol
I inb4'd! Your statement is invalid!
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  #48  
Old 11-30-2012, 11:29 PM
92 SVX 92 SVX is offline
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Re: EGR

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Originally Posted by icingdeath88 View Post
I did the same with the intake manifold of my built engine, since it hopefully won't ever have a stock ECU attached to it. I hope you looped a vac line to connect the two nipples; I'd worry about dust and crap getting in there eventually and stopping it from working. Might also be a good idea to relocate the solenoid to somewhere not so hot, so it doesn't fail because the actual solenoid goes bad from the heat after however many years.

The 92 ECU can tell whether the solenoid is connected, and somehow it can tell whether it's stuck or not (probably detects a different current or something??). Like Harvey said, the later ones have a temperature sensor on the intake manifold right where the EGR connects, that the ECU uses to monitor whether the EGR is actually working or not, by detecting the increase in temp when the hotter exhaust gas is flowing past the sensor. If one were to measure the resistance at the different temperatures, one might be able to use a resistor to trick the ECU...

The 92s have a (14mm head) plug where the temp sensor is on the later ones. AFAIK, the 94s don't actually throw a code when the EGR system isn't working though. It will throw a code if the temp sensor is missing, however, which I know because I have a 92 engine in my 94, and if I use the 94 ECU it throws a code (code # 34). Not sure about the Cali spec cars, or the OBD2 cars, but I bet they'll throw codes for a missing temp sensor, a stuck or missing solenoid, and the the EGR not functioning. There are 3 codes: 34, 55, and 56. I think the 92s can only throw 34, because they have no temp sensor, and therefore no way to tell whether the EGR is functioning or not, only whether the solenoid is functioning.

If you want to delete the EGR (on a 92), the most difficult part will be getting the line from the pass. side exhaust manifold out. Once you do that, you can just put in a bolt to plug the hole. I tried and I tried, but I could not get that fitting to loosen. Still haven't quite figured out how to solve that problem. Gene, what did you do?

There's not that much (if any) performance to be gained from removing it though, to be honest. Most EGR systems only open at high vac, and RPMs well above idle, which is basically just when you're cruising. At low vac, high loads, it should stay closed. Recirculating the inert exhaust gas instead of fresh air just reduces the amount of fuel that needs to be injected, which ought to improve mpgs very slightly. I see two main benefits from tossing it: cleaner engine bay, and cleaner engine. The exhaust gas is disgusting, and if you ever look inside port where it goes into the intake manifold, you will cry from how nasty it is.

It also gets rid of a tiny bit of the more toxic by-products of combustion, which I guess it a good thing, but the way it does it is kind of stupid. It lowers the combustion temperature. NOx are formed when O2 and N2 are burned together at very high temps. I guess by diluting the air/fuel mixture with the CO2, H2O and other inert combustion products, it lowers the combustion temp enough to prevent that. Yea, when you burn hydrocarbons, you get CO2, CO, and water. You can think of an EGR as a really retarded water-injection system if it makes you feel better.

Ed, stop using memes wrong. This isn't Facebook, lol
Both nipples on those damn solenoid, the egr and the charcoal canister broke off so I used a touch of rtv to seal them up.
Relocating them is a good idea I thought about it but did not, though with the ceramic coating on the intake I suspect they wont get quite as hot.

As to the header tube going up to the egr I plugged it at the top, I too was unable to get the tube out of the header. I used some high temp rtv and a block plate, bolt and nut on the flange of the tube.
If I take the engine out, or at least the header i will try a flare nut wrench on it, seems that might be the easiest, oh and torching it may help too.
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  #49  
Old 12-01-2012, 08:31 AM
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Re: EGR

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Originally Posted by 92 SVX View Post
Both nipples on those damn solenoid, the egr and the charcoal canister broke off so I used a touch of rtv to seal them up.
Relocating them is a good idea I thought about it but did not, though with the ceramic coating on the intake I suspect they wont get quite as hot.

As to the header tube going up to the egr I plugged it at the top, I too was unable to get the tube out of the header. I used some high temp rtv and a block plate, bolt and nut on the flange of the tube.
If I take the engine out, or at least the header i will try a flare nut wrench on it, seems that might be the easiest, oh and torching it may help too.
Nope, not at all. Seems like it's pretty much fused together. I'll have to try to get the headers off the other engine, which is in storage, later on. That engine was in the most rust-free car of the three.

Or I was also thinking I could grid the tube off at the nut, and then drill and tap the hole and still put a bolt in it.
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'97 Ebony LSi ~137k #036.......Power mode mod, JDM clear corners, BBS wheels. AUX/pocket mod

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  #50  
Old 12-01-2012, 12:12 PM
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Re: EGR

So icing, should I still go ahead with trying the seafoam in there?
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  #51  
Old 12-01-2012, 08:41 PM
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Re: EGR

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So icing, should I still go ahead with trying the seafoam in there?
Go ahead and try it if you feel comfortable doing so. I didn't have any seafoam at home like I thought, so I couldn't try it on mine, sorry.
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'94 Laguna Blue LSi ~159k.......JDM ultra short-geared 3.900 STi Version 7 6-speed w/ Cobb shortshifter, ECUtune 244,8.1mm/256,9.1mm i/e cams, group N motor mounts, '97 grille, JDM clear corners, Momo JDM Legacy GT steering wheel, apkarian's LED tails, silver STi BBS wheels, PWR radiator, redstuff pads f/r, drilled/slotted rotors, bontragerworks rsb #18, Koni/GC 450f/375r coilovers, Megan Racing adjustable lateral links, KMac c/c plates, Stebro exhaust, ECUtune 1v5, Optima battery in the trunk where it belongs. Turbo project

'97 Ebony LSi ~137k #036.......Power mode mod, JDM clear corners, BBS wheels. AUX/pocket mod

Now a mod "over there" ............Photo album
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  #52  
Old 10-18-2016, 03:21 PM
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Re: EGR

Bringing this old thread from the archives!

did anyone try sucking in Seafoam through the vac hose that is connected to the "P" nipple of the intake manifold as suggested earlier in this thread? There might be not enough vacuum to suck in Seafoam was something that was mentioned.

Thanks.
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