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  #1  
Old 12-26-2008, 07:32 PM
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Crank pully nut

I have the engine out for a complete reseal, water pump, and timing belt change but can't figure out how to get the crank pully off without damaging something... The nut is on there pretty tight.
I'd like to wedge something in the flexplate but that seems like it would be an unwise decision. Is it safe to use an impact wrench on that crank nut? Also, what should I torque it to once I put it back on?
Thanks in advance!
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  #2  
Old 12-26-2008, 07:42 PM
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Re: Crank pully nut

Probably your best bet is to block the flex plate and use an impact wrench.

I had one real stubborn one, I had to use a big pipe wrench with a 3 foot pipe on the outer pulley, and a breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe to turn the bolt.
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  #3  
Old 12-26-2008, 09:01 PM
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Re: Crank pully nut

If you run into a snag, use the starter!

Is a bit scary but works like a dream

I use a big break over bar with big old socket and slide a plastic pipe over the handle and brace the whole thing against the frame by the battery. Pad the handle-plastic pipe with some padding to protect the top of fender and turn the ignition switch to start. Turn key off when nut breaks loose... right then!
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  #4  
Old 12-26-2008, 09:59 PM
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Re: Crank pully nut

Quote:
Originally Posted by kwren View Post
If you run into a snag, use the starter!

Is a bit scary but works like a dream

I use a big break over bar with big old socket and slide a plastic pipe over the handle and brace the whole thing against the frame by the battery. Pad the handle-plastic pipe with some padding to protect the top of fender and turn the ignition switch to start. Turn key off when nut breaks loose... right then!
Yep thats whats ive always done to get that bolt off on all my subarus if was needed. Just make sure you put the bar or extention on the side where its turning. put it on the wrong side and it flys an few meters away
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  #5  
Old 12-27-2008, 07:52 AM
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Re: Crank pully nut

Yeah, the starter is fine, but;
Quote:
I have the engine out for a complete reseal
He'd have to attach the TC and transmission to hold the starter...
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  #6  
Old 12-27-2008, 12:27 PM
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Re: Crank pully nut

<<Is it safe to use an impact wrench on that crank nut?>>

its a crank bolt. yes, impact gun will work fine.
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  #7  
Old 12-27-2008, 01:04 PM
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Re: Crank pully nut

Yeah the starter trick wont work in my case lol!

Ok great! I guess I'll try and hold the flexplate and use an impact wrench on the nut. I have a torque wrench that's 3' and rated at >500Nm so I think I should be able to get it off even without the impact wrench. If I do bend the flex plate I do have an extra one so at least I'm not sol.

Thanks to all who replied!
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  #8  
Old 12-27-2008, 02:38 PM
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Re: Crank pully nut

the impact will put the torque on it without turning the motor over.

if that doesn't get it, subaru makes a tool to hold the crank pulley just for this job....might be worth buying/borrowing. where in ND are you? I know a couple guys in Moorhead that might have something.

and next time, break that bolt loose before you pull the motor out
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  #9  
Old 12-27-2008, 03:39 PM
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Re: Crank pully nut

Might try a big box end wrench or maybe your breakover bar socket thing with a big mauler (hammer). I have always (many times) loosened mine that way with the exception of the last time after I tightened it too tite. Then I did the starter thingy.

It is important to keep a firm pressure against whatever wrench you chose while you whack it with the mauler.

You can do this!

Keith
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  #10  
Old 12-27-2008, 04:38 PM
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Re: Crank pully nut

Well that's done! The impact wrench made it ridiculously easy to get the bolts off the crank and cams. Cam plugs sure are a pain... Good thing I have new ones, I think I'll end up destroying these trying to get them out.

This reseal is going pretty good, I'm glad I decided to do it myself.
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  #11  
Old 12-27-2008, 04:42 PM
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Re: Crank pully nut

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxo View Post
Well that's done! The impact wrench made it ridiculously easy to get the bolts off the crank and cams. Cam plugs sure are a pain... Good thing I have new ones, I think I'll end up destroying these trying to get them out.

This reseal is going pretty good, I'm glad I decided to do it myself.
Good for you!!

Keith
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  #12  
Old 12-27-2008, 04:59 PM
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Re: Crank pully nut

Is taking off the part that the cam sensor is attached to something I could do to make replacing the cam seals and plugs a piece of cake? I already have the valve cover off and by the look of it, only a few bolts secure that part too.
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  #13  
Old 12-27-2008, 05:44 PM
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Re: Crank pully nut

Cam plugs I did buy gripping them with some big vice grips and turning back and forth, then hitting the new one in with a hammer. The cam plugs are tricky, to get the old ones out you have to drill a small hole in them and pry them out with a small 90 degree hook.
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Mods:AWD conversion/4.44 swap by Budfreak, Custom red interior lights, Custom Satin black dash, Power mode switch, Cold air intake, Permecool tranny filter,Sony xplode 10" sub, Sony xplode 1000w amp, Blitz in-line driver, DDM Tuning 6000k HID's, New paint job/body work by me, 97' Grill, QC shift kit, 17'' MB Motoring rims, 15&20 min mod, front & rear urethane swaybar bushings, Custom fiberglass sub box, Custom red led a/c control unit, perrin lightweight crank pulley, Black wrinkle finish powdercoated intake manifold w/ clear hoses , 02' outback heated/power black leather seats
Soon to come:Fiberglass hood, upholster ALL suede to black leather
Past subies:

92' Pearl White/black top LS-L-SOLD
96' Legacy Outback-TOTALED
99' Legacy Outback Limited 30th anniversary edition-TOTALED
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  #14  
Old 12-27-2008, 09:46 PM
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Re: Crank pully nut

They were in there pretty tight and I ended up putting a hole in the top of them then yanking them out with a screwdriver. I'll be glad when this job is done.
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  #15  
Old 12-27-2008, 10:06 PM
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Re: Crank pully nut

They suck. I changed my passenger side cam plug with the motor still in, that sucked in general but got it done.
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Seth
94' Barcelona Red w/ Tricoat black 2-tone AWD Ls -Sold
Mods:AWD conversion/4.44 swap by Budfreak, Custom red interior lights, Custom Satin black dash, Power mode switch, Cold air intake, Permecool tranny filter,Sony xplode 10" sub, Sony xplode 1000w amp, Blitz in-line driver, DDM Tuning 6000k HID's, New paint job/body work by me, 97' Grill, QC shift kit, 17'' MB Motoring rims, 15&20 min mod, front & rear urethane swaybar bushings, Custom fiberglass sub box, Custom red led a/c control unit, perrin lightweight crank pulley, Black wrinkle finish powdercoated intake manifold w/ clear hoses , 02' outback heated/power black leather seats
Soon to come:Fiberglass hood, upholster ALL suede to black leather
Past subies:

92' Pearl White/black top LS-L-SOLD
96' Legacy Outback-TOTALED
99' Legacy Outback Limited 30th anniversary edition-TOTALED
98' Forester L -Totaled
Other toys:
99' Forester S -WRX brake upgrade, soon an 04 wrx motor swap
06' B9 Tribeca-Stock
1982' Yamaha xj650 Maxim
Mods:
work in progress
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