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  #1  
Old 05-04-2007, 03:04 PM
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LetItSnow LetItSnow is offline
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Hood and Trunk Strut Redo Redux


WATCH THIS SPACE!

I'll update this thread with the hood and trunk strut rebuilds, using aftermarket bits. Everything you need to know. Every cut, every part, every spec.

Complete: Everything is installed! Next: The How-To!

Experiment results so far:

* The 90# struts make a much better replacement up front than the 120# ones; they still lift the hood themselves, but they're definitely more civilized when closing.

* The measurements made in the original hood strut How To are short about an inch and a half. Thanks to John for the correction.

* With both 80# struts installed in the trunk, it won't pop it up, and it won't let it float down, so keep the kids' fingers out, but it does move in a much more friendly fashion. You still have to control its speed, but it's with a lot less effort. For note: My trunk has the wing.

* The trunk strut mod is currently facing a problem that was pointed out to me. Hood struts are still super good, though.

Bill of Materials (in progress):

I got these from ASRaymond:

Qty P/N Item Price Extended

2 GSNI225090 Gas Spring - Black Nitride (hood strut) $16.19 $32.38
2 GSNI515080 Gas Spring - Black Nitride (trunk strut) $14.13 $28.26
2 BS1002 Ball Stud $ 1.02 $ 2.04
6 BS11208 Ball Stud $ 1.39 $ 8.34
Shipping $13ish $13ish
$84.02

You'll also need:

(6) 1/4-20 nuts, stainless steel, which should cost about $2.
(2) washers - I used 6mm, with the smallest OD I could find. About $1.00
Paint for the brackets, if you're the type that doesn't care for exposed metal

Get some cutoff wheels for the Dremel, too!
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Last edited by svxcess; 11-25-2018 at 08:18 PM.
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  #2  
Old 07-02-2007, 10:26 AM
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Talking Testimonial for hood strut mod

.
Hi,
I have done the hood strut mod, originated by LetItSnow. Read 1st thread (NOT the trunk mod) and it is easy to do and works excellent for about $50.00

Slightly modified BOM
Qty P/N Item Price Extended
2 GSNI225090 Gas Spring - Black Nitride (hood strut) $16.54 $33.08
4 BS1002 Ball Stud (hood strut and base) $ 1.02 each $ 4.08
2 M8 Nuts $ ~.75 each. $1.50 a pair

Shipping $13.00 approx.
~$50.00

EDIT:
The 10mm ball stud (BS1002) with 8mm shank fits the oversize hole in bracket with reused plastic bushing better than the original stud with 1/4-20 shank.
,
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Last edited by svxcess; 11-24-2018 at 08:35 PM.
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  #3  
Old 08-23-2007, 10:44 PM
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Never noticed that sticker before, if going over 150 MPH increase tire pressure to 40 psi :O 150 is damn fast!
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  #4  
Old 10-05-2007, 11:06 PM
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Is there a way to do this without tapping or drilling? I don't have those tools at my disposal and my hood struts are blown completely from the car sitting with the hood down for a year.
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Last edited by svxcess; 11-24-2018 at 08:22 PM.
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  #5  
Old 04-05-2010, 04:30 PM
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Re: Hood and Trunk Strut Redo Redux

Wow, a lot has happened since Mike's post above - he's had my strut mod on for a while now!

I don't know exactly where my completed writeup went, but this picture tells the story. (EDIT, it's over <here>.) You essentially split the strut's bottom bracket and keep just the part that mounts to the body. The hole in the bracket is rather large, so placing a washer inside it allows a ball stud to hold in place. No tapping, no place for wobbly bits, no grabbing the strut rod with vice grips, and no obstructions if you choose to blast/sand/paint. There's not much to it.



I know this is quite a bump, but the thread was linked to today, so I figured I'd finish my part!
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Last edited by LetItSnow; 04-05-2010 at 04:33 PM.
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  #6  
Old 04-05-2010, 06:02 PM
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svxcess svxcess is offline
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Re: Hood and Trunk Strut Redo Redux

Please post those actual SPD part numbers for the struts again, along with the ball studs.


Quote:
Originally Posted by LetItSnow View Post
Wow, a lot has happened since Mike's post above - he's had my strut mod on for a while now!

I don't know exactly where my completed writeup went, but this picture tells the story. (EDIT, it's over <here>.) You essentially split the strut's bottom bracket and keep just the part that mounts to the body. The hole in the bracket is rather large, so placing a washer inside it allows a ball stud to hold in place. No tapping, no place for wobbly bits, no grabbing the strut rod with vice grips, and no obstructions if you choose to blast/sand/paint. There's not much to it.



I know this is quite a bump, but the thread was linked to today, so I figured I'd finish my part!
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