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#1
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Post Race Inspection...Brakes...
Ok folks just finished my post-race inspection of the SVX from the last event I did down at Summit Point in May. (finally got the time to go over the vehicle better).
Do not buy dimpledrilled/slotted/crossdrilled rotors. We had 2 vehicles one cross drilled, one dimple drilled. They both have developed hairline cracks from the dimple and cross drilled areas. They look cool, but they are not good for racing. Just figured I'd give you guys a heads up. -mike |
#2
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slotted, if done correctly, shouldnt crack, I would be interested in the brand rotors they were using...
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Chris SVX World Network Administrator -1993 Subaru SVX LS-L, Barcelona Red, #46, 160,000+ Miles (Sold to SomethingElse) -2011 Toyota Sienna SE, Black, 30,000+ Miles (Swagger Wagon ) -2002 BMW R 1150R ABS, Black, 26,000+ Miles (Daily Driver ) SVX Owner from February 1997 to March 2008 SVX Online Community Member since February 1998 SVX World Network Member since February 2002, Member #520 Life is a game. Play to win. The world belongs to those who can laugh at it. |
#3
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I'm kinda wondering about the brand too. I am gonna be getting ART Rotors for my SVX.. I want to make sure that I can abuse the hell outta them and they will still stand up to it!!! If anyone doesn't thihnk that ART is the best I'd love to know why??? (Other than price....)
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2020 Subaru Outback Touring - Wife's first Subaru 2005 Volvo V70R - 5-cylinder love! :Heart: ** SOLD **1998 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT Wagon - MOST RELIABLE car I've ever owned ** SOLD **2006Subaru WRXSTi (Former "Boxer4Racing.com / Continential Tire" STi) - Built EJ22t block / EJ207 JDM STi "big port heads" - 9,000rpm MONEY PIT!!! ** SOLD ** 1995 "Tree-Hugger Green" SVX L AWD(5 MT) --- "Gumby" 130K miles #399 in MY95, my original love... |
#4
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I have the ART rotors, and LOVE them...
I recently (on the way home for Reading IV) had to stand on the brakes with both feet lifting my a$$ off of the seat at approximately 50-60 MPH, and she stopped, FAST, upon further inspection, no visible cracks or warping. I bought all four from him at once, and he gave me a discount for that.
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Chris SVX World Network Administrator -1993 Subaru SVX LS-L, Barcelona Red, #46, 160,000+ Miles (Sold to SomethingElse) -2011 Toyota Sienna SE, Black, 30,000+ Miles (Swagger Wagon ) -2002 BMW R 1150R ABS, Black, 26,000+ Miles (Daily Driver ) SVX Owner from February 1997 to March 2008 SVX Online Community Member since February 1998 SVX World Network Member since February 2002, Member #520 Life is a game. Play to win. The world belongs to those who can laugh at it. |
#5
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Well, Raceconcepts uses Bradis for the front, so I'm pretty sure they won't have a problem cracking. What brand did you use? I've had my slotted/dimple drilled ones on for about..eh... over 6 months, and no warpage or cracking anywhere. This includes quite a few stops from 130mph.
- Rob |
#6
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After talking with both Wood at Raceconcepts and Dan (?) at ART extensively, slotted seems the way to go. I went with Raceconcepts but if I'd had more time I would have either bought the ARTs or had my Raceconcepts shipped to ART for cryo treating. They offer that as a separate service.
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#7
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Quote:
-adam (front slotted ART's) |
#8
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Mine are Raceconcepts slotted and dimple drilled.
I spoke to Wood over there, and they offer no warranty past 30 days. He wouldn't even give me a discount off another set which I thought was pretty low I offered to send them back and everything. However, non slotted, non-dimple drilled will cost $40 each from him which I think is a great price. A few stops from 130 aren't going to crack them. I did 30+ minute track days on a short 1.1m course @ Jefferson circuit where I was doing 80->25->65->20->70->25->70->20 over and over and over for 30 minutes each time. I also did 2 days at limerock, and 2 days at VIR full. Just figured they would have lasted longer than they did. -mike |
#9
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Mike,
In my younger days, I used to rally, not race. Though, I did compete in some SCCA sanctioned events. I am now a 59 yr. old mech. eng'r. I have some comments about road racing the SVX. First, it's just too heavy to be really competitive. From a strictly material point of view titanium has to be the best metal for rotors. It it very strong and light weight and has great heat disipation properties. It's one major drawback right now is that it is super duper expensive (Do you know anyone at Lockheed?). If you are just going to be a weekend club racer, fine. Ignore my comments and enjoy yourself. Good Luck in your next race.
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Larry III & The Beautiful Naviguesser '19 Tungsten Pearl Outback 3.6R Ltd...."AISHA" '08 Harvest Gold Outback 3.0L. L. L. Bean...."AIJOU" '07 Gray Diamond Pearl Outback XT Ltd..."AH SO" '05 White Pearl & Silver BAJA Turbo..."AH HA" '97 Bordeaux Pearl SVX LSi..."SUBYDOO" '94 White Pearl SVX LSi..."PEARLY" '92 White Pearl SVX LSL w/touring pkg..."SVXY" '92 Teal SVX LSL w/touring pkg..."ALCYONE" '96 Polo Green LSi ... "MIDORI" '00 Black Dodge VIPER RT-10... "VINNIE" Engineers do it with precision. English teachers are novel lovers. Home: larrysingeriii@comcast.net SVX FEVER, CATCH IT AT A MEET NEAR YOU !! |
#10
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if Ti is truely much much better than cast iron
including stopping distance there has to be the right amount of friction betwen the rotor and the pad... if someone made it and it was the best people would buy regardless of price look at the ceramic brakes and CF brakes that they ahve now better than iron, and they sell and theuy're super expensive
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SV What? |
#11
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I heard that one of the only options on the 911 turbo and the GT2 are Ceramic Brakes!!! Cool, I'd llike to get some of those
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2020 Subaru Outback Touring - Wife's first Subaru 2005 Volvo V70R - 5-cylinder love! :Heart: ** SOLD **1998 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT Wagon - MOST RELIABLE car I've ever owned ** SOLD **2006Subaru WRXSTi (Former "Boxer4Racing.com / Continential Tire" STi) - Built EJ22t block / EJ207 JDM STi "big port heads" - 9,000rpm MONEY PIT!!! ** SOLD ** 1995 "Tree-Hugger Green" SVX L AWD(5 MT) --- "Gumby" 130K miles #399 in MY95, my original love... |
#12
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Sorry about the rotors cracking. Makes me feel better about sticking with stock rotors though.
As for advanced rotor materials, there is active research in using dispersion strengthened aluminum alloys (aka metal matrix aluminum alloys) as a rotor material. I've had my hands on some pieces of developmental versions of such rotors. The rotors are about an 1.5" thick! And they have very deep slots (3/4 of the way through the thickness). I think some companies actually are offering them now.
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#13
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Larry: Yeah it's just HPDEs and what not, can't afford a cage and probably not worth it on an SVX. If I ever do get serious about racing I'll probably buy a spec miata or spec camaro or something along those lines. Worst case I'll buy an SVX with a dead tranny and strip it down to about 2500lbs and stick a 5-mt in it.
I'm gonna get some solid blanks for it from raceconcepts.net. $40 a pop isn't bad. I only got the slotted/dimple drilled cause they were the same price as rotors from the dealer at the time. -mike |
#14
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Saying a blanket statement like "Do not buy dimpledrilled/slotted/crossdrilled rotors" is pretty narrow minded seeing the best breaks in the world are slotted/crossdrilled, Brembo for instance. Just my 2 cents.
SVXtasy |
#15
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i just ordered my crossdrilled/sloted rotors from rotors direct i hope they hold up
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2008 evo x with sss package 430 hp 380 torque stock turbo with basic bolt ons 12.56 @ 109 fully weighted 3,500 lbs |
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