92 Ls-l California, Best Offer

[K_Dub]

The time has come, I'm selling the Bandit.

Location of the SVX: Southern California

Year: 1992

Model: LS-L

VIN: JF1CX3531NH100362

Manufacture date: 04/91

Paint Color: Black, originally Dark Teal repainted by previous owner

Interior Color: Grey

Miles: ~217,000

Location: Topanga, CA

Options: Fully loaded including leather seats, sun roof, speed sensitive steering, etc.

AWD or FWD: AWD

Modifications: ECU Tune Stage 2v7f (FlexFuel), Poly swaybar/diff bushings, 15min mod, HID lighting, new Optima Red Top battery, new Maniac High Output alternator (160Amp), Pioneer AVIC P-4000 headunit, Infinity Reference speakers, 17" wheels with newer tires, tinted rear windows.

Major service: Many sensors, etc. replaced in last 3 years. Recently installed charging system. 3 out of 4 axles replaced over three years. 3 out of 4 wheel bearings replaced over two years. Synthetic Blend oil change and coolant flush done less than 1000mi ago.

Engine Condition: Some issues explained below, but I believe the engine itself to be in good shape. Small leaks from valve covers, but nothing critical. Runs very strong about 80% of the time, but does have an intermittent problem that needs work.

Maintenance Records: All records from 3 years of ownership beginning at 170K, nothing prior. CA Smog cert. from April of this year!

Transmission condition: Slips occasionally if idling too long in drive, I usually pop it into neutral while waiting for a light which prevents this from happening. If it's put in drive, and then driven, the gears all hold and the shifts are firm.

Glass condition: Windshield has slight pitting, no cracks or large dings at all but it is old. The window glass is good, if a little scratched on the driver's side. Dark tint on rear windows with no bubbles or scratches.

Type of tire and remaining tread: Kumho Ecsta ASX tires with less than 5K miles on them. Still very good tread.

Type of wheels: MB Wheels "Drifter" 17x7 with black spokes and a chrome lip.

Interior condition: Driver's seat has torn bolster on seat back, and fading on bottom. Passenger side fair, and back seats good.

Body condition: Lots of door dings on both sides. Drivers front fender is dented in, looks like someone sat on it. Paint in poor condition; orange peel throughout with adhesion problems (flaking) on hood and front bumper, and 2x4" scuff on front corner. Door jams and engine compartment are stock Teal. The car was repainted poorly prior to my owning it, and it has gone downhill fast. I always maintained it well, washing once a week with twice yearly wax by a professional detailer, but it was a loosing battle. Car still looks great from a distance, but I'm being brutally honest in this listing.

Known defects or problems: Driver's front CV joint clicking with a torn boot. Car occasionally has rough idle, especially when in gear, and can stall on you if you aren't ready with the throttle. I haven't been able to diagnose this as it is intermittent and doesn't throw any CEL codes. Trouble with the battery ground causing it to loose connection while starting sometimes. It always goes away by jiggling the neg (-) battery connector, and starts right up. It just needs a couple of feet of replacement wire run to solve the issue as every other component of the charging system is newly upgraded. A/C non-functioning, diagnosed as a leaking compressor bearing. Power steering pump leaks slightly under tank.

Comments about the car: It does have high mileage, but it is a rust-free California car with many recent and expensive parts installed. Very minor sorting is needed to get it mechanically reliable, but cosmetically it is a bit rough. I've cared well for it during my ownership, and it is without a doubt a better car than when I purchased it three years ago. I did a good share of work myself, but often employed a mechanic for bigger tasks. The plan was to go on improving it until it reached perfection, but plans change and now it has to go. It's my favorite car I've ever owned and it pains me to part ways with it. For the asking price you are getting the ECU Tune stage II, a new Optima, HO Alternator, in dash DVD with bluetooth, and upgraded wheels with fresh tires. Those alone should be worth the asking price, I'm throwing in the rest of the car for free!

Asking price: $1500 OBO. Don't be shy.

Pictures: I've got to get it out for some real sale pics, but here's a taste.

[K_Dub]

Full disclosure: I've edited the original post to include more details about the car's condition and change some wording. Thanks for looking.

[K_Dub]

Pictures!

[K_Dub]

Interior Pictures!

[K_Dub]

She's on Craigslist now. All offers from network members will be considered. I'm not in a rush to sell, but I would much rather see it go to an enthusiast.

[K_Dub]

Super Bonus Weekend Funtime Picture Bump!!!

[K_Dub]

Not even a "GLWTS"? Was it something I said?

Seriously though, does anyone have any suggestions. Am I overpricing it? Should I just part the good bits off? I really want this car to live on, but not on the street outside my house, so it may be better off going to a local yard. I know from experience that there just aren't any local parts cars, I could consider it a public service to the local SVX community. I haven't even had a single lead from Craigslist, so something's not working.

I'll take advice, insults, arguments or offers at this point. Just want to stimulate some discussion.

[1986nate]

To be completely honest, if you look at the market, one with that kinda mileage with none or minor issues doesn't typically sell for your asking price.
Not criticizing, just explaining.

You'd be better off pulling anything you want to keep from the car (ie, stereo, speakers, rims/tires, etc) and putting stock back on and dropping the price. The market just isn't there anymore.

[Lookin4SVX]

Ok then, you want some opinions on why its not selling..
I own a 92 ebony with 190,000mi that I paid $2500 in Feb of 2010.
I live in CT, but bought mine from ME.
I have no idea what the going rate of a used SVX is in southern Cali.
Ok, now that that is out of the way..here is my opinion on whats wrong.

My view of your ad as a buyer:

Body:
Exterior only repaint. Door jams and engine compartment are stock Teal.
I could not live with this, there are many others that would feel this way.

Paint is poor condition, orange peel throughout and flakes on hood and front bumper.
So not only was it an exterior only spray, it was a cheapo macco hack job.

Lots of door dings on both sides.
Unless you got a friend in the dent repair business, lots of small dings add up to real money.

Drivers front fender is dented.
Unless you got a friend in the dent repair business, a used ebony fender would probably be cheaper.

Driver's seat is destroyed.
Um, yeah, that's the seat I'm going to sit in, it can't be all tore up...

Windshield has slight pitting.
I hear these windshields cost half the value of the car...
I'm not even biting on an ad that lists anything wrong with the windshield.

Mechanical:

Car has rough idle and can stall on you if you aren't ready with the throttle.
So I would have to shift my automatic if i don't want it to stall at the traffic light..

Modification with ECU Tune Stage 2v7f.
So, it has aftermarket ECU that needs a MAF and injectors from another car... and the car keeps stalling when idle for unknown reason..

Transmission Slips when idling in drive.
I hear SVX transmissions break. I hear that when they slip, they break sooner rather than later...

A/C non-functioning, leaking compressor bearing.
I would have to buy a user AC Compressor...

Oil leak from valve covers.
Well, as long as I don't mind oil spots in the driveway, or the oil leaking onto the underside the car, and I keep an eye on the oil, and put oil in it..
Then I could put off the $500 for the valve cover gasket job it needs for awhile...

Power steering pump leaks.
Could be an O ring? could need a new one? either way its going to cost me couple hundred dollars to have someone tear it down diagnose and fix that..

Driver's front CV joint toasted.
Another couple hundred dollars to fix that too..

Originally Posted by K_Dub

... For the asking price you are getting the ECU Tune stage II, a new Optima, HO Alternator, in dash DVD with bluetooth, and upgraded wheels with fresh tires. Those alone should be worth the asking price, I'm throwing in the rest of the car for free!

This is where your logic is fail. :/

ECU Tune stage II is a mod, this tends to remove value not add it.

A new Optima Red top, but you have to wiggle the wire at the negative terminal on to make the car start sometimes...

A High Output Alternator, but you have to jiggle the ground at the battery...

An in dash DVD with Bluetooth, that you can still see icky dirty silver cage on the bottom of.

"Upgraded" wheels with fresh tires, not everyone likes that type of wheel.


So that is how I see it as a buyer.

You have 2 types of buyers for your SVX.
Buyer #1, I want a cheap car that looks cool that I can drive into the ground. Price range $800-$1200
Buyer #2, I always wanted an SVX, but ill never be able to afford a really nice one, but if I can find one with minor issues I could live with it. Price range $1200-$1800

Hope that helps.

[Conn SVX]

Nice car for about $1,000

[K_Dub]

Originally Posted by 1986nate

To be completely honest, if you look at the market, one with that kinda mileage with none or minor issues doesn't typically sell for your asking price.
Not criticizing, just explaining.

You'd be better off pulling anything you want to keep from the car (ie, stereo, speakers, rims/tires, etc) and putting stock back on and dropping the price. The market just isn't there anymore.

Yeah, that's about what I expected. I figured I'd get more hits off of craigslist than here. Problem is that I can't return it to stock without spending a bunch more money. If I pulled the stage II kit off it wouldn't run anymore (don't have the stock bits anymore), but selling a non-runner would be even harder. If this car ends up getting scrapped it'd be without the new Alt, battery, stereo, etc. but even that might be a hard sell. I really don't want to see it go that way, but I just can't keep it myself and nobodyelse wants it. I wish I had a garage to keep this car and tinker with it.

I see two options: strip it down and have it hauled away (NOT preferred) or fix the issues out of pocket and hope to earn that money back (not likely). Talk about a-rock-and-a-hard-spot. I doubt anyone in the world has more experience buying and selling SVX than you, so your advice is highly regarded. Want to buy your old driveshaft back?

[Subix]

Exactly the reason I'll never, ever sell the Bordeaux @ 204k miles with every penny I've put into it. It's a shame you have to get rid of it... but with everything you've got going on it I don't see why someone wouldn't be willing to pick it up for $1,500 (give or take) but that's only because of the issues trailing it unfortunately.

It would suck to see it gutted.

[Conn SVX]

There was a young guy about 2 or 3 months or so ago looking to buy an SVX .Where are they now. Mine had a lot fewer issues but had rust and exhaust leak .RAN really good other wise, and I had a hard time getting my price for it.

[K_Dub]

Thanks for the replies. This is what I needed to hear. I've never sold an SVX before, and only overpaid for one once.

Lookin': you're right on the money, I fear. I know this car will never be a show stopper, knew that when I bought it. Honestly I see these parts going to a much better car as an amenable solution. If I sell this car cheep to a local kid it'll probably end up dead within a year.

Here's what I'm thinking. I can't take out the ECU kit, because that would kill it. I'll probably hang on to the wheels and tires (mostly for the tires), the battery, and try to sell the stereo separate. Then I think I'll have a $1000 car on my hands, running and everything, with the new alternator and ecu going at a loss. I know that the whole car as-is won't fetch as much as I spent on tires so why give them away? I have to find some rollers for it so it doesn't go on blocks, but I really like those tires and wouldn't mind wearing them on the Volvo. I don't know, honestly. I figured all along that I would be this car's last owner, but it would be wasteful and shameful IMHO to scrap a running car. I won't let that happen.

[Sean486]

The car looks pretty nice to me but as you said, distance helps. The wheels and tires as well as the head unit are great. Your big problem as I see it is the mileage. Too many miles on it to spend a lot of money on fixing it up.