WTB: High output alternator

[Cam]

I live in Lynnwood, WA, and am looking to purchase a high-output alternator. Name your price...but don't get too carried away, I am not made of money . From what i can gather they are quite rare, but I've got my fingers crossed

[svxcess]

.

The only thing you need to know. Click HERE You will not find a better product anywhere!!

160A high-output alternator, completely rebuilt from the ground up.





$248.00 without core. Once they send you the alternator, install it and send them back your old alternator for a $60.00 core credit (They even pay for your old alternator to be shipped back to them at their expense)

Final price is $188.00 One year warranty. This is cheaper than a generic 95A rebuild from Subaru

I have one of these on my 96 Polo, along with a custom alternator wiring modification/ upgrade. Electrical system operates flawlessly. They are using upgraded voltage regulators from Germany for exceptional reliability. HERE is a link to my installation.


The only thing not shown is the 150A Mega Fuse inline on the power wire andattached to the fuse box.




You will need to upgrade the power wire and grounds to 4 gauge, along with a fuse in the power wire as close to the battery as possible.


Talk to Christian when you call. She will answer any questions you have.

.

[SVXRide]

Originally Posted by svxcess

.

The only thing you need to know. Click HERE You will not find a better product anywhere!!

160A high-output alternator, completely rebuilt from the ground up.





$248.00 without core. Once they send you the alternator, install it and send them back your old alternator for a $60.00 core credit (They even pay for your old alternator to be shipped back to them at their expense)

Final price is $188.00 One year warranty. This is cheaper than a generic 95A rebuild from Subaru

I have one of these on my 96 Polo, along with a custom alternator wiring modification/ upgrade. Electrical system operates flawlessly. They are using upgraded voltage regulators from Germany for exceptional reliability. HERE is a link to my installation.


The only thing not shown is the 150A Mega Fuse inline on the power wire andattached to the fuse box.




You will need to upgrade the power wire and grounds to 4 gauge, along with a fuse in the power wire as close to the battery as possible.


Talk to Christian when you call. She will answer any questions you have.

.

John,
Where did you get the Mega Fuse? Pics on your install of it?
-Bill

[svxcess]

Bill,

The holder is available on ebay, Amazon.com, and a lot of other places.


Here is the link to it on EBAY with a Buy-It-Now price of $6.95 plus $5.00 shipping.

I order from Amazon.com because I get free 2 day shipping. See HERE


I will be installing it in the next week or so. I have the bracket already made that slips over the lip of the main fuse box and is held in place by the fusebox lid.



I was waiting for the HYDRAULIC CABLE CRIMPER I ordered from Harbor Freight to make the cables. I will be making these cables with solid copper lugs.

........



I will start with a 125A fuse and see how it goes. I have 150A and 175A fuses just in case. Don't worry, I will be taking great photos of the finished product. Christian at Maniac Electric is anxious to add them to the document she already has on tha website.

The Mega Fuse should be the most reliable protection we can obtain, given space limitations. The advantages of slo-blo technology and an easily replacable fusible link.

With my new alternator and the German regulator, I have 14.4V at startup and for most of the day, using various accessories, stay around 13.9V. It is extremely stable and responsive to the various loads. I rarely go below 13.5V.

.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by svxcess

Bill,

The holder is available on ebay, Amazon.com, and a lot of other places.


Here is the link to it on EBAY with a Buy-It-Now price of $6.95 plus $5.00 shipping.

I order from Amazon.com because I get free 2 day shipping. See HERE


I will be installing it in the next week or so. I have the bracket already made that slips over the lip of the main fuse box and is held in place by the fusebox lid. I was waiting for the hydraulic ratcheting crimper I ordered from Harbor Freight to make the cables. I will be making the cables with solid copper lugs.

I will start with a 125A fuse and see how it goes. I have 150A and 175A fuses just in case. Don't worry, I will be taking great photos of the finished product. Christian at Maniac Electric is anxious to add them to the document she already has on tha website.

The Mega Fuse should be the most reliable protection we can obtain, given space limitations. The advantages of slo-blo technology and an easily replacable fusible link.

With my new alternator and the German regulator, I have 14.4V at startup and for most of the day, using various accessories, stay around 13.9V. It is extremely stable and responsive to the various loads. I rarely go below 13.5V.

.

Is Slo-Blo important?

Wondering if 125 amp or so without slo-blo might save us in the event of a regulator failure. Just wondering.

Keith

Trevor, if you happen to run across this, this is not a declaration of war. Just trying to find out what others might think.

Cheers?

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by kwren

Is Slo-Blo important?

Wondering if 125 amp or so without slo-blo might save us in the event of a regulator failure. Just wondering.

Keith

Trevor, if you happen to run across this, this is not a declaration of war. Just trying to find out what others might think.

Cheers?

Keith,

A fuse is a means of protection against high current, rather than high voltage. What is more the fuse in question here, is fitted as a means of protecting the alternator and the external connecting circuit, (i.e. associated wiring ) against battery current, rather than supplied items against the alternator. You will find this mentioned within the tread covering revised alternator wiring.

In order to protect the system against an alternator voltage regulator failure, something more sophisticated is required. The usual arrangement is a voltage sensitive solid state switch, arranged to instantly crowbar, (directly short circuit) the alternator to ground, in the event of excessive voltage. This will kill the voltage and the necessary alternator circuit fuse will then open against the introduced fault.

You will find such protective devices available for, and used in, light aircraft. It is all a matter of cost relative to risk. Obviously the stakes are high when it is not possible to get out and walk.

[SVXRide]

Originally Posted by svxcess

Bill,

The holder is available on ebay, Amazon.com, and a lot of other places.


Here is the link to it on EBAY with a Buy-It-Now price of $6.95 plus $5.00 shipping.

I order from Amazon.com because I get free 2 day shipping. See HERE


I will be installing it in the next week or so. I have the bracket already made that slips over the lip of the main fuse box and is held in place by the fusebox lid. I was waiting for the hydraulic ratcheting crimper I ordered from Harbor Freight to make the cables. I will be making the cables with solid copper lugs.

I will start with a 125A fuse and see how it goes. I have 150A and 175A fuses just in case. Don't worry, I will be taking great photos of the finished product. Christian at Maniac Electric is anxious to add them to the document she already has on tha website.

The Mega Fuse should be the most reliable protection we can obtain, given space limitations. The advantages of slo-blo technology and an easily replacable fusible link.

With my new alternator and the German regulator, I have 14.4V at startup and for most of the day, using various accessories, stay around 13.9V. It is extremely stable and responsive to the various loads. I rarely go below 13.5V.

.

John,
Thanks. Are you getting the fuse itself at Home Depot or Lowe's?
-Bill

[Cam]

Great! I will order one tomorrow. I have no time now but will make some tomorrow. Thank you