Clutch Binding, I know its been a problem :(

[wyldnwoody44]

I know there are some other threads about transfer clutch binding but ive heard so many different things about it I wanted to clarify before i take some mechanical action
I dont have any lights on start up, Nothing blinks

When i put the FWD fuse in the rear binding went away

My mechanic wants to do a flush and refill with transtune and see if that helps. But i heard of someone saying that that will probably damage my transmission because of particles. Ive also read about selonoids and such. Im just very confused about if i should have it flushed now or not, but i do need to take care of this fairly soon so if anyone has any decent input on this please help, Im a mechanical moron : (

[log1call]

No lights, the fuse makes the noise goes away, it tells me that all the electrical and mechanical systems ar operating as they should be.

Are you sure you do not have a missmatched tyre? Different pressures in the tyres? Long shot and only applicable if you have just got the car but... a diff of the wrong ration? Some one has adjusted the centre diff duty cycle perhaps?

[stuartracing]

Any codes coming up in the TCU???? Mine is doing the same....I have an ATF code and a Speed sensor code coming up....

[TomsSVX]

Originally Posted by log1call

No lights, the fuse makes the noise goes away, it tells me that all the electrical and mechanical systems ar operating as they should be.

Are you sure you do not have a missmatched tyre? Different pressures in the tyres? Long shot and only applicable if you have just got the car but... a diff of the wrong ration? Some one has adjusted the centre diff duty cycle perhaps?

Actually this is common for Sol. C failure. Either the solenoid requires a constant 12v signal to actually operate (weak coil) or the transfer valve is slow to react in cutting line pressure. Replacing the Sol. C with a new one will include a new transfer valve assembly and likely cure the issue.

Tom

[sperry]

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

Actually this is common for Sol. C failure. Either the solenoid requires a constant 12v signal to actually operate (weak coil) or the transfer valve is slow to react in cutting line pressure. Replacing the Sol. C with a new one will include a new transfer valve assembly and likely cure the issue.

Tom

+1, that's how I fixed the binding my car had when I originally purchased it.

I think my issue was the valve assembly because I wasn't getting any Sol-C TCU codes. I also replaced the clutch plates as well since they were worn from the year or so of binding that the previous owner lived with. But for a couple $100, it made the tranny last a few more years until the front diff exploded, after which I went with 4.44's.

[wyldnwoody44]

I have matching front tires but the rear tires are 2 different brands, the circumference is the same, but thats what was on the car when i bought it. the tread patterns in the rear arent exactly the same i dont believe. Do you think that the flush would be a good place to start? My mechanic said he flushed his mother in laws subby and that did the trick and its the cheapest way to start out. I havent had the car too long and i havent driven it much so im not sure the exact problems i may encounter

[TomsSVX]

Originally Posted by wyldnwoody44

I have matching front tires but the rear tires are 2 different brands, the circumference is the same, but thats what was on the car when i bought it. the tread patterns in the rear arent exactly the same i dont believe. Do you think that the flush would be a good place to start? My mechanic said he flushed his mother in laws subby and that did the trick and its the cheapest way to start out. I havent had the car too long and i havent driven it much so im not sure the exact problems i may encounter

Don't power-flush it. But it might be worth a shot... IMHO its not worth it but hey, I can always be wrong

Tom

[svxistentialist]

Originally Posted by wyldnwoody44

I have matching front tires but the rear tires are 2 different brands, the circumference is the same, but thats what was on the car when i bought it. the tread patterns in the rear arent exactly the same i dont believe. Do you think that the flush would be a good place to start? My mechanic said he flushed his mother in laws subby and that did the trick and its the cheapest way to start out. I havent had the car too long and i havent driven it much so im not sure the exact problems i may encounter

Same as Tom says above, it can't hurt to flush [but not power flush!] the system and replace the ATF. Like him I suspect it will still be binding after the oil change.

The 4 tires are meant to be and supposed to be EXACTLY the same. Even though you are non-mechanical it is unreasonable to be trying to shake down this problem while using unmatched tires on the rear.

Replace the two on the rear with the exact same as are on the front. Or buy 4 cheapos all the same.

Then, after all those tweaks, if you still have a problem, you will be tackling Solenoid C like the guys say.

Joe