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#1
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Getting the big old bolt loose...
on the crank pulley. Got my car back from the dealer today after 6 weeks of diagnosis and started going into the timing belt stuff. Got to the crank pulley and won't budge. I have removed it a dozen times in the last 3 years and never a problem. My big break over bar and the heavy mauled easily does the trick. I worked on it over an hour tonight and even resorted to a "bigger hammer". A big sledge hammer even, and it is way too tight, won't budge. Didn't think they went into that area, but in 6 weeks a lot of stuff could have happened.
Anyway, I probably have to wedge the fly wheel with something and need to know the best way to do that without damaging the flywheel. Anyone have a better idea please respond. All help appreciated. Keith Last edited by kwren; 05-06-2008 at 11:28 PM. Reason: more stuff |
#2
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Harvey.
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One Arm Bloke. Tell it like it is! 95 Lsi. Bordeaux Pearl, Aust. RHD.149,000Kls Subaru BBS wheels. 97 Liberty GX Auto sedan. 320,000Kls. 04 Liberty 30R Auto Premium. 92.000kls. |
#3
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which wall?
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I almost did it but I would still like a second opinion. No offense intended. Could I maybe have a third opinion as well. I am really a big chicken. |
#4
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Other idea would be to remove a inspection plug on the block/bell housing and stuff in a screwdriver, breaker bar, whatever... The idea is to stop the flywheel from turning and then use a breaker bar on the crank bolt to loosen it. The slower introduction of stress on a small area would lessen the possibility of breaking a tooth. I have done it this way and never had a single issue ever. Using the starter is easier though. If you do do the starter method just make sure to disable the car in some way, like un plugging the ignition igniter on the firewall or removing the fuel pump fuse or something.
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"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin blk 92' LSL w/ average mods pics here http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/ Cash68: "Hmm, I wouldn't brag about beating Escorts. That's like saying you tricked a retarded person." |
#5
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ty Tex!
I like to have options and will mull over them!
Thanks again. Keith |
#6
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Are you thinking that they messed something up? How much did weeks at the dealer cost you anyway?
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"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin blk 92' LSL w/ average mods pics here http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/ Cash68: "Hmm, I wouldn't brag about beating Escorts. That's like saying you tricked a retarded person." |
#7
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about 400 dollars
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I am checking on a belt skip notch thing first and go from there. I'm Confused, but I think the diagnosis of blown head gasket after 6 weeks in the new Subaru loaner was their way of saying goodbye! I will get it worked out but the big old bolt has been a project. I want to make sure the timing is ok before I go into it farther. I appreciate it! Keith |
#8
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This is the method I always use, simple and easy.....
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Huck Subaru Ambassador 92 SVX LS-Tour Magnaflow Exhaust, 5-Spd-AWD 88 XT6 AWD 5-Speed "Bride of FrankenWedge" 15 Impreza Premium Sedan 15 Crosstrek XV 5-Speed My 5-Speed "How-To" Write-up 1976 Pontiac Firebird Formula Current Count of Subaru's Owned.... "70" |
#9
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there are crank pulley holding tools you can buy... i have a vice grips with a chain attached to it
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- John ASE certified Master Tech W/ X1 Twin City Fleet repair, St. Paul, MN need work done? Have tools will travel
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#10
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I rest it against the ground under the battery. I mean ground as in pavement, dirt, driveway, etc. And not the battery grounding point...
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Dave - 03 Baja - 92 SVX - 86 Brat - 08 OB 3.0 |
#11
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Thanks everyone!
...............
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#12
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Tool
I just bought that crank pulley tool that was for sale on Ebay. I suspect it will pay for itself many times over in actual cost savings and/or time.
I would also check the timing belt jump problem unless you are getting water in your oil or oil in your water. Both of course sure signs of head gasket failure. Are you losing any coolant? You can of course have a blown head gasket without noticable oil/coolant problems but you normally do have the problems. Lee
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SVXx2 92 SVX LS-L Silver 92 SVX LS-L Burgundy (structurally challenged with 2792 miles) 96 SVX LSi Red 92 SVX LS Pearl (Parts) 01 F150 4X4 Red (+6 with other members of the family) FREEDOM IS NOT FREE |
#13
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Thanks tor the input. It all addes up to a final solution.
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I checked with the dealer and they do the starter thing to loosen the bolt. I have never lost coolant and no water in the oil. I use synthetic and it is changed religiously. Since the dealer has had the car for 6 weeks, I am not sure what they did but I was able to drive it home, about 16 miles without it going whacko. They were suprised when I told them that it went that far. (I do prsay a lot!) I will get the "Big old bolt" off and check the timing belt for slippage and hopefully it has slipped! If not then to plan "B" Not ready to take off the head yet. |
#14
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Are you serious?? I would NEVER use my starter motor to get a crank bolt loose. You are begging for disaster and flying tools. Gotta be honest, if they give me enough grief I will wedge the torque converter/flywheel with an appropriate sized flat blade. Using the starter is a REALLY bad idea and should never be recomended.
Tom |
#15
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Makes sense.
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If we break something we have to pay for it ourselvs. Why would they care if they broke it? not I will go out and look for a screwdriver and the torque converter, brb keith |
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