Part numbers for oxygen sensors.

[svxistentialist]

My car left me at the side of the road today. First time since I got it.

It's showing codes 32, 37 and 23. That's for the two oxygen sensors and the airflow meter.

I found the airflow meter on Subaruparts.com, but can't find the O2 sensors.

Anybody know the part numbers for the sensors?

Anbody know if an airflow meter off an Impreza will fit an SVX? They are much more common, and likely to be more easily found in a breakers yard.

Thanks in advance

Joe

[tone]

Dear Joe,

How are you? Me coming and going...

Back again as you can see.

You'll be amazed on the infinite possibilities you will be given to solve the O2 sensor issue.

This said just look at the obvious and very good place: www.oxygensensors.com and look for the applicable year, brand, model combinations.
You're done I guess...

Still thinking of coming over for holidays?
Let me know if I can be of any help.
I'd sure love to handle my car to you so I can have a specialists opinion on how its motor, transmission and handling feels when compared to others...

Tone

[svxistentialist]

Thanks Tone

They seem to have a wide range of prices, from $45 to $99. I was kinda hoping to get the Subaru part numbers, I might then have a better chance of getting them locally, possibly quickly.

Anyone know the Subaru #s?

Anyone know if an airflow meter from another Subie might work, like from a Forester, WRX or Legacy?

Any help appreciated.

Joe

[awdsvx]

The part numbers for the OEM Oxygen Senors are:




Go to:

https://www.1stsubaruparts.com

22690AA180 $119.95(LIST) $89.96(actual price)
Electrical - Powertrain control - Oxygen sensor
OXYGEN SENSOR, SVX 1992 - 1994

22690AA180 $119.95(list) $89.96(actual price)
Electrical - Powertrain control - Oxygen sensor
OXYGEN SENSOR, SVX 1995

22690AA270 $149.95(list) $112.46(actual price)
Electrical - Powertrain control - Oxygen sensor
OXYGEN SENSOR, SVX, Front 1996 - 1997

I do not know what the big differance in O2 sensors 1992-1995 / 1996-1997, besides cost.

[svxistentialist]

Bielen danke AWD

Will check on the availability of these tomorrow.

Joe

[StooKer]

Hi!

I'm interested to buy the oxygen sensor from http://www.oxygensensors.com. What is the difference between the OEM and the universal?

My mechanic will install it. So, which will be the faster to install?

If the install time is the same, and the sensor is equal quality, I will buy the Walker universal.

Thanks!

[svxistentialist]

I expect they would all take the same time to install, they just screw in like plugs I think.

Wondered about the OEM vs universal myself. Before you buy, check the number of wires on the ones you have. They are screwed into the sides of the front cats. Likely there will be three wires, if so, avoid buying the 4-wire model.

Other than that, I'd expect any of them listed for the SVX to fit and work.

Joe

[SVXer95]

I have o2 sensors from oxygensensors.com

They are definitely a good alternative to OEM from a cost standpoint.

The OEM from said website come with oem style plugs. The universal have to be spliced to be used with your old plugs. I think it is worth the extra few $$ for the oem type. This will make for a much faster and cleaner install.

[immortal_suby]

My svx is giving the same 3 codes as yours. CE light comes on after about a minutes worth of driving. I replaced both 02 sensors about 5 months ago with OEM subaru sensors and started getting the CE light about a month or 2 after I put them in.

I have swapped out the MAF between my car and my wife's car (I know hers is good) and the CE light still comes on even after resetting the ECU. Her svx does not throw a code with either MAF sensor.

[Motorsport-SVX]

if you need some:

http://store.yahoo.com/svx-motorspor...s/oxsen02.html

[b3lha]

Hi Joe,

A little installation tip for you. Connect the wires before you screw in the sensor - otherwise it can be a pain to connect them. Then twist up the wire anti-clockwise so that it untwists as you screw in the sensor.

Make a careful note of the wire colours when you remove the old ones, because it's easy to plug the wires in the wrong order.

Phil.

[svxistentialist]

Originally posted by immortal_suby
My svx is giving the same 3 codes as yours. CE light comes on after about a minutes worth of driving. I replaced both 02 sensors about 5 months ago with OEM subaru sensors and started getting the CE light about a month or 2 after I put them in.

I have swapped out the MAF between my car and my wife's car (I know hers is good) and the CE light still comes on even after resetting the ECU. Her svx does not throw a code with either MAF sensor.

The manual states that a code will be thrown after running over 2000 rpm for 40 seconds, so it is seeing a problem there all right. I read my codes and then cleared the memory, but they came straight back as per above.

Troubleshooting suggests in the case of each problem code listed, to first check continuity in the loom between the device and the ECU, and to run a check on the ECU. Only then replace the component.

This makes sense. You could spend time and money putting in new gear, only to discover it was a bad loom or a bad ECU at the end of it all.

I will be pulling my wires today. Let you know if I find an obvious fix that could help Immortal.

Joe

[immortal_suby]

Ugh - testing wires - not my forte but I can do it. Looms of 30 wires wrapped up and heading into the unknown depths beneath the dashboard scare me.

I'll try swapping ECU's this weekend and see what happens.

[svxistentialist]

Well, I took it all apart, and put it back together again, this time with no parts left over!

Did not replace any components, but the codes are no longer showing. I am not thoroughly convinced this means the problem has "gone away". A little bit of gingerly exploring the distance I can safely go for a while I am thinking.

I opened the connectors to the two oxysensors, and I see what Phil means about the OEMs being easier to fit. I also took apart the MAF sensor, carefully cleaned it and sprayed carb/choke cleaner in there. In checking the connections between the ECU and the MAF, I could not find continuity, so I was puzzled, even wondered if the US manual I have is different from Japanese wiring. Can't see a reason why it should be, so I bolted it all back together good and tight. In addition, I paid particular attention to the loom taking signal from the MAF to the main loom. {Do you guys call them harness?} I cleaned the connector pins on the maf with sandpaper, and crimped the connector block with pliers to tighten it a bit.

This last is the only thing I did where I would have expected a possible fix or bonus.

If it was the problem, I'll be laughing. If it stays good Immortal after a few days and lots of miles, I will confirm the fix. Then you could possibly try the same with yours, see if you have a ghost bad connection.

See ya

Joe

[svxistentialist]

Discussed the problem with my brother who is just back from Portugal. He has been a service manager all his life, and has in-depth experience with lots of cars, millions of problems.

When I told him the codes that I had, he immediately said o2s don't break down in pairs. If one fails, it is component failure, if two fail together you should be looking for bad connections, or air leak somewhere.

Aside from cleaning and crimping the MAF connectors [and taking off and cleaning and tightening the earth connection on that bulkhead] I also tightened up the various tubes on the plastic manifold. I am now going to strengthen that by adding hose clips to most of the connections there. They are hardened and loosened by heat and ageing.

Lastly, Immortal Suby, this is one for you to check since you have the same three codes and a MAF sensor that checks out on your wife's car; there is a small diameter tube connected to the injector rail on the inside injector, LHS looking in. This is a vacuum tube for the fuel pressure regulator. On the top, mine is plugged into a fine three quarter inch metal pipe. It was loose there [because of heat I suppose], and my cure was to take off the pipe and turn it upside down. I also cut a small amount of the upper perished bit off, the pipe is long enough to get away with it.

Drawing air here can give funny ECU codes on modern cars I was told. Check this one right away, clear your codes, and see if it makes the difference. Hope it does it for you.

Joe

[PS: The reason I was showing no continuity, my ohmmeter pins are too big for the B60 connector. Pins on the ECU are tiny. If checking volts/ohms, you need to stick a few wires in here unless your meter pins are tiny, like they are on the dedicated auto models ]

Let me know how you get on.