Gotta draw... - Page 2

stuartracing · #16 04-05-2009, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoughSilver92

Not much help here. I found 4 fuses I can take out and drop my volt draw from 12.6 to .15. 3 are under the hood and one is the Door Lock Timer on the inside. I tried to measure Amp draw but showed 0 through all the ranges. I tried to test Amp draw in series with the positive cable, though. I'll try with the negative cable tomorrow.

So there iIS a draw on these cars even minimal on a SVX with a Good battery...It must be norman????So my battery just can`t handle the minimal draw( must be bad battery)...????I guess...I don`t have a load tester...Might just take to Autozone an get it tested just to make sure....

edmsvx · #17 04-05-2009, 11:12 AM

I had a similar problem with my car. 220 ma draw on the battery, when I pulled the clock fuse dropped to 11 ma. After must troubleshooting found that the TCU (Time Control Unit) was bad. Replaced and all is good now.

stuartracing · #18 04-05-2009, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edmsvx

I had a similar problem with my car. 220 ma draw on the battery, when I pulled the clock fuse dropped to 11 ma. After must troubleshooting found that the TCU (Time Control Unit) was bad. Replaced and all is good now.

Great day, a time control unit?????Where,what and how much is one of these,LOL....I just bought a Battery load test from Harbor Frht. and it tested good....So what does this TCU do besides control time....
Thanks....

SVXRide · #19 04-05-2009, 07:01 PM

I think (?) it controls how long the car waits before locking the door locks?
-Bill

RoughSilver92 · #20 04-05-2009, 10:13 PM

I mean it went from 12.6 to 0.15 after removing the 4 fuses (volt draw). I checked my fuse in my meter, good. I had forgot to switch my red lead to the other hole to check amp draw.

Rechecked for amp draw and with nothing on and doors closed with all fuses in I only measured .02 Amps. With the door open I measured 1.55 amps. I don't think the .02 amps should be enough to drain my battery in a week, but it never fails. I left my battery hooked up after measuring today just to see what happens (like I don't already know). I am curious if it's possible that something sporadically drains the battery. I left the meter hooked up for about 15 minutes an It never changed off the .02 amps. Something has to be happening, though. The door lock timer interests me because that is one of the fuses I have to pull to get my volt draw down (the only one on the inside of the car). The ones in the main fuse box are the clock fuse, hazard fuse, and light switch fuse. But as I said, only .02 amps with all those in, so I'm stumped.

RoughSilver92 · #21 04-05-2009, 11:04 PM

Oh, looks like the time control unit and door lock timer are different. Time control unit is behind the glove box? I think.

SVXdc · #22 04-06-2009, 12:23 AM

Both the door lock timer and TCU are located behind the glove box.

The TCU handles nearly all of the things that need timing (e.g., wiper delay, rear defogger cutoff, seat belt buzzer, automatic shoulder belt system, courtesy illumination, etc.), and also manages the instrument illumination, dimming, and "night illumination dimness cancel" (Bright mode).

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoughSilver92

Rechecked for amp draw and with nothing on and doors closed with all fuses in I only measured .02 Amps.

20mA doesn't sound too bad, but it is more than double what I measured in mine.

Do you have the factory radio? CD option? Security module? Automatic shoulder belts?

Quote:

The door lock timer interests me because that is one of the fuses I have to pull to get my volt draw down

Several people have mentioned water wreaking havoc with the door lock servos and switches, so it's possible you have something flaky there.

What's the current draw when you pull just the door lock timer fuse?

stuartracing · #23 04-06-2009, 09:03 AM

I was going to do a full check today and start pulling fuses,relays, ect,ect. but it`s pouring rain today....I`m stumped too.....

Trevor · #24 04-06-2009, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stuartracing

I was going to do a full check today and start pulling fuses,relays, ect,ect. but it`s pouring rain today....I`m stumped too.....

After you pull a fuse, connect a test lamp across the fuse holder, if it lights at full brilliance, this will indicate a fault to ground on that circuit. A blown fuse link can assist in this regard. A volt meter may be used, but only with caution, as it will draw very little current and this will be available to ground via any normally connected load.

Unfortunately there will be several branches to each fused circuit, which will have to be checked separately, if fault is detected in this way. This is where the hassle will start.

stuartracing · #25 04-19-2009, 08:17 AM

So , did we ever come a conclusion if there is and where the draw is coming from....I still have to take out my clock fuse to keep from draining my battery every 3 days or so....Thankyou.....
Paul...

SVXdc · #26 04-19-2009, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stuartracing

So , did we ever come a conclusion if there is and where the draw is coming from....I still have to take out my clock fuse to keep from draining my battery every 3 days or so....Thankyou.....
Paul...

Paul,
You're going to have to help us out here. We can't diagnose the problem remotely.

What year and model is your car?

Does it have the security module?

Have you measured the current-draw at the battery? See this post again (#11). You should probably start out on a higher Amps scale than what I previously suggested — say 1 Amp or more. If your meter doesn't have any steps in between mA and 10 Amp, then use 10A.

For the 10 Amp scale, you'll probably need to move the + test lead to a different jack on the meter. Remember to move it back if/when you drop back down to the smaller mA scales.

Trevor · #27 04-19-2009, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stuartracing

So , did we ever come a conclusion if there is and where the draw is coming from....I still have to take out my clock fuse to keep from draining my battery every 3 days or so....Thankyou.....
Paul...

Please Paul,

This thread I passed by because the heading made no real sense. Please read the sticky regarding posting technical stuff.

I have gone through this thread from the start to finish and find that you have done little to assist yourself and have not replied in full to many of the helpful posts recorded. Furthermore no advice has been forthcoming from you regarding several very clear instructions, which would assist you if properly carried out.

Please identify exactly which fuse you are calling the “clock” fuse. There is more than one circuit involved with the clock. The original radio/audio shares some fuses with the clock. Therefore also advise as to whether any other item does not work when the “clock” fuse is removed.

Regard me as a cranky old bugger if you will, but give a thought towards the time and effort several members have donated, rather worthlessly it appears. At the same time be sure that the "thank you" which concluded your last post is appreciated.