Brand new problem (scary!)

[longassname]

Ya, that's the right adapter. If you're using an ECUtune select monitor adapter and having problems logging it's safe to say the problem lies with the laptop or the software. What version of windows do you have? Do you have a copy of the old ECUtuner software? The ECUtuner software writes directly to the ftdi usb chip driver instead of a virtual serial port like the other software does.

Originally Posted by NikFu S.

I tried to get readings today but it's all garbage. There was some sort of error, the computer restarted while it was logging, and after that Evoscan would not load properly and the battery was low anyway.

We disconnected the O2s and the car started without having to push the pedal, but it ran the same otherwise. We were not able to swap the sensors yet. I advised the shop to just install new ones since I seem to have no record of having them replaced.

We pulled injector connectors and observed the same behavior that I reported the first time. Pulling 1, 2, 3, and 5 does nothing. Pulling 4 slowly bogs the engine, pulling 6 bogs it quickly.

The idle seemed to deteriorate even though the tach read normal revs. It seemed by the time we were done scratching our heads it was running on two cylinders.
Judge that for yourself here: https://youtu.be/Adx9T8yJd5U
The revs seem to increase alright when throttle is applied, though I can tell it still isn't 100%.

I'm going to have them run continuity tests on the injector wires.



You mean this or something else?

[fasteract7]

Originally Posted by NikFu S.

I will have to ask very specifically when I check in next week, but I think compression returned when the timing was fixed. The prevailing theory so far is when this problem occurred it caused the belt to skip teeth and the resulting fuel dump killed the 02 sensor or it was gone already.

Gotcha....has anybody offered to loan you an ECU to swap out or has that problem been ruled out? Weird that the first time you pulled the injector connects it "did nothing" but now those 2 you mentioned seem to be malfunctioning ( for that moment!) But than it seems like it's running on 3 cylinders, 4 cylinders, 2 cylinders at different times. Sure would like to know if your ECU is "happy". Hopefully when the EvoScan gets up and running, the data will point towards the problem.

[NikFu S.]

Originally Posted by longassname

Ya, that's the right adapter. If you're using an ECUtune select monitor adapter and having problems logging it's safe to say the problem lies with the laptop or the software. What version of windows do you have? Do you have a copy of the old ECUtuner software? The ECUtuner software writes directly to the ftdi usb chip driver instead of a virtual serial port like the other software does.

This laptop uses Windows 8.
I think I do have the ECUTuner software, but I can't get it to work on this laptop.

Originally Posted by fasteract7

Gotcha....has anybody offered to loan you an ECU to swap out or has that problem been ruled out?

I have not ruled out the ECU, but I think it is more likely to be a wiring problem. I'm betting there is some wires somewhere eroding.

[longassname]

I would take Tapani's advice and check the +12v supply to your coils on the right bank. Particularly since it's quick and easy to do.

I'm not a big believer in the idea that the timing belt slipped on it's own because your car is a stick shift. If it really did slip then I don't think it was put together right to begin with. It seems as likely to me that someone has put this engine back together wrong as it is that it's an electrical problem. I think we just want it to be electrical so you don't have to pull the engine out again.

We could be looking at a bad head gasket because the old head bolts were re-used or new bolts were used but just not torqued right.

We could be looking at a loss of compression because the intake and exhaust lash adjusters were mixed up. I gave a how to write up for disassembling the lash adjusters and priming them with fresh oil before re-installation in the thread on my 9.3 compression engine. I did notice in your videos that your lash adjusters sound awefull.

We could be looking at the camshafts being installed wrong.

I would probably do a compression check on all 6 cylinders now and get real #'s to confirm if you still have a compression problem or not. All 6 coils and spark plugs are removed to do this. I would give specific instructions to keep track of which coils are which and to swap the left and right bank coils when they put it back together. I would also give specific instructions to install brand new spark plugs and not to try to adjust the gap on them. If the compression test shows no or very low compression on the passenger/right bank they can stop there and pull the engine. If the compression test is good I would have them go ahead and have them swap the fuel injectors between the left and right banks to eliminate the possibility that the injectors on the right bank got clogged while the car was sitting. The problem would still exist but would switch sides. If the compression proves good but the car isn't firing on the right bank for some other reason this will be proved by your brand new spark plugs remaining brand new after you start the engine. I would expect this to be 2 to 3 hours of shop time plus the new set of plugs. This is better than potentially unlimitted shop time spent tinkering around.

[NikFu S.]

Back at this after a much needed break.

Originally Posted by longassname

I would take Tapani's advice and check the +12v supply to your coils on the right bank. Particularly since it's quick and easy to do.

I'm not a big believer in the idea that the timing belt slipped on it's own because your car is a stick shift. If it really did slip then I don't think it was put together right to begin with. It seems as likely to me that someone has put this engine back together wrong as it is that it's an electrical problem. I think we just want it to be electrical so you don't have to pull the engine out again.

We could be looking at a bad head gasket because the old head bolts were re-used or new bolts were used but just not torqued right.

We could be looking at a loss of compression because the intake and exhaust lash adjusters were mixed up. I gave a how to write up for disassembling the lash adjusters and priming them with fresh oil before re-installation in the thread on my 9.3 compression engine. I did notice in your videos that your lash adjusters sound awefull.

We could be looking at the camshafts being installed wrong.

I would probably do a compression check on all 6 cylinders now and get real #'s to confirm if you still have a compression problem or not. All 6 coils and spark plugs are removed to do this. I would give specific instructions to keep track of which coils are which and to swap the left and right bank coils when they put it back together. I would also give specific instructions to install brand new spark plugs and not to try to adjust the gap on them. If the compression test shows no or very low compression on the passenger/right bank they can stop there and pull the engine. If the compression test is good I would have them go ahead and have them swap the fuel injectors between the left and right banks to eliminate the possibility that the injectors on the right bank got clogged while the car was sitting. The problem would still exist but would switch sides. If the compression proves good but the car isn't firing on the right bank for some other reason this will be proved by your brand new spark plugs remaining brand new after you start the engine. I would expect this to be 2 to 3 hours of shop time plus the new set of plugs. This is better than potentially unlimitted shop time spent tinkering around.

I will relay your suggestions to them after confirming the ECU is not the problem. There is literally nothing else to replace after this point.

I have purchased an ECU (~$60), swapped the Subiechips over, and installed it.

I have a brand new problem, I think because the ECU I bought is bad or I installed the chips incorrectly, but I can't tell. The markings on the case were practically identical to the original. The new ECU itself was unmolested, still having the plastic chip slot protector and black resistor intact. I clipped the brown resistor as indicated for the Subiechips, though I only clipped one end and left the other end attached. There should be no continuity.

The only other change made was I disconnected the plug behind the passenger headlight going to the ABS unit as I suspected it was draining the battery and not doing much else.

Here is a video of what the car is doing when the key is turned on (turn volume up):

https://youtu.be/qt1kWMCvHns

When I turn the ignition on the starter just churns, doesn't catch. Not really expecting it to with this check engine and clicking weirdness.

Also this is speculative, but I have a volt readout on my positive terminal, it was fluctuating quite a lot after the ECU install but before the key was first turned. I suppose it is possible that water has pooled somewhere and caused this problem. Unfortunately I did not check the condition of the vehicle before pulling the ECU and the battery was flat. I swapped the ECUs before charging the battery.

[longassname]

Did you just install update ROMs into an old memory adapter or did you just get and install a complete "subiechip?"

If you got a complete new "subiechip" make sure to remove the ECU circuit board from the ECU case and squeeze the circuit board and memory adapter together between your thumbs and forefingers to seat the memory adapter fully. Other than that there isn't much you could do wrong except not get one of the harness plugs fully plugged in when re-installing the ECU into the car.

If you installed a pair of update ROMs into an old style memory adapter there are two possible mistakes. 1) You could mix up the ROMs. 2)you could install the ROMs upside down.

[NikFu S.]

Originally Posted by longassname

If you installed a pair of update ROMs into an old style memory adapter there are two possible mistakes. 1) You could mix up the ROMs. 2)you could install the ROMs upside down.

I was very careful to install the update ROMs properly, but it is possible I got one upside-down.
I should have time tomorrow to re-un-swap the chips/ECUs to see if it keeps doing this.

It's wet and starting to get cold, though and there is nothing I hate more than pulling that ECU... What a drag.

[92 SVX]

Don't mean to hi-jack but question for lan,
I spoke before about getting subiechips for 370cc injectors and the z32 maf, Stage 2.

I already have the newest ecutune chip.



Can you link me to the correct purchase page for the upgrade? I found the old style but not for the new style

[longassname]

Here ya go: http://www.subiechips.com/modifiedSVX.htm

Originally Posted by 92 SVX

Don't mean to hi-jack but question for lan,
I spoke before about getting subiechips for 370cc injectors and the z32 maf, Stage 2.

I already have the newest ecutune chip.


Can you link me to the correct purchase page for the upgrade? I found the old style but not for the new style

[92 SVX]

Thank you very appreciated.

[NikFu S.]

Originally Posted by NikFu S.

I was very careful to install the update ROMs properly, but it is possible I got one upside-down.
I should have time tomorrow to re-un-swap the chips/ECUs to see if it keeps doing this.

It's wet and starting to get cold, though and there is nothing I hate more than pulling that ECU... What a drag.

I PUT THEM IN THE WRONG SLOTS LOL.

Car is running [poorly] again, the diagnostics will continue until morale improves...

ECU has been ruled out. I heard today that the ECU was suggested as a source of the problem because the injectors were acting weird. This is the first time I heard that the injectors may not be functioning properly. Lately I have been watching a lot of "cars with similar problems" videos and have been leaning towards a fuel problem, so I am confident we are moving in the right direction (or so says the person who put the chips in backwards).

[NikFu S.]

Can anyone tell me any lesser-known components external to the ECU which regulate spark or fuel pressure/timing?

[92 SVX]

Originally Posted by NikFu S.

Can anyone tell me any lesser-known components external to the ECU which regulate spark or fuel pressure/timing?

fuel pressure would depend on fuel pump, the pump modulator, the relay, and the pressure regulator, assuming all lines are good and no fuel is leaking.

spark would be the ignitor and coils,

have you checked to make sure all the injectors are good, no leaking injectors?

[NikFu S.]

Alright, so here's an update. I drove the car home after leaving it at the mechanic since last summer.

The car tried so hard to run well. I didn't have much trouble starting or driving it, though it didn't generate quite enough power to reach 40mph. She's a real trooper. Initially there was a massive cloud of fuel smoke, but after it ran for a bit that went away and no new smells were produced. Parked it in my garage and there is no real car smell, just stinky garbage in the waste bin.

So anyway, I know someone with a Forester and recently their vehicle has begun exhibiting the exact same problem as my SVX.

What's the common denominator? They relatively recently had their head gaskets changed.

Right now I am strongly convinced that whoever suggested the engine was reassembled incorrectly is on to the real culprit.

Currently I have the option of disassembling the motor myself and trying to ascertain how to put it back together correctly (something I have never done before and might screw up), or paying a different shop to take the heads off and tweak them however they may need to be tweaked. The problem I foresee is no one will be able to visually determine which part precisely is causing the issue, and this is where I defer to the experts here once again to point me in the right (and preferably very specific) direction.

In the meantime I will be watching all the valvetrain videos.

[huck369]

Originally Posted by NikFu S.

Alright, so here's an update. I drove the car home after leaving it at the mechanic since last summer.

The car tried so hard to run well. I didn't have much trouble starting or driving it, though it didn't generate quite enough power to reach 40mph. She's a real trooper. Initially there was a massive cloud of fuel smoke, but after it ran for a bit that went away and no new smells were produced. Parked it in my garage and there is no real car smell, just stinky garbage in the waste bin.

So anyway, I know someone with a Forester and recently their vehicle has begun exhibiting the exact same problem as my SVX.

What's the common denominator? They relatively recently had their head gaskets changed.

Right now I am strongly convinced that whoever suggested the engine was reassembled incorrectly is on to the real culprit.

Currently I have the option of disassembling the motor myself and trying to ascertain how to put it back together correctly (something I have never done before and might screw up), or paying a different shop to take the heads off and tweak them however they may need to be tweaked. The problem I foresee is no one will be able to visually determine which part precisely is causing the issue, and this is where I defer to the experts here once again to point me in the right (and preferably very specific) direction.

In the meantime I will be watching all the valvetrain videos.

I'd first check that they got the timing belt on correctly, before I tore into the motor...