lan's engine build and engine build how to

[longassname]

Those are matched to the head. Notice (although not on all model years) they are numbered so that they go back in the same place you took them off from. Also, notice the holes in the back edge of the head that line up with the axis of each cam--the holes that get half round plugs? Those holes provided the access for line boring of the heads and caps together.

Originally Posted by SVXMAN2001

Lan, end caps aka cam caps. The 3 caps that hold each camshaft. 3 for intake 3 for exhaust.

[longassname]

Your high miles engine is probably fine. Most EG33's are high mileage and most of them are fine. It's not the mileage; it's the treatment.

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Mike how many miles was on this engine. The reason I ask is I am not sure if I should rebuild my existing engine for the SC (has 430,000 kilometers) or my spare (130,000). Did you check wear etc on the cam jounels. I thought my high K engine might only be good to use as a anchour in the end.

[Dessertrunner]

Mike not sure if right place to ask question but I will, how do you intend to handle the alternator/Aircon issue. What ideas do you have?

[longassname]

I don't know what issue you are talking about. If you are talking about mounting of the alternator below in order to retain air conditioning with a blower set up and standard hood line I believe that is the only possible answer; however, this engine is not getting that set up. This engine is going in naturally aspirated for break in and the details of the forced induction system it will have are not yet being disclosed.

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Mike not sure if right place to ask question but I will, how do you intend to handle the alternator/Aircon issue. What ideas do you have?

[OBI]

Originally Posted by longassname

and the details of the forced induction system it will have are not yet being disclosed.

sounds very interesting

[longassname]

Ok, I got my hands on an oil pump. A new one would have taken forever to get with the holidays so I got a used one. Being a used part I gave it a thorough cleaning and a thorough check over and everything looked good:
(an impact driver is the correct tool to open the pump with--also for removing the philips head screws on the covers on the back of the block--also for the injector caps and fuel pressure regulator--don't expect to remove any of these screws with a screw driver)

tip clearance: .0055
case clearance: .006
inner rotor side clearance: .0013
outer rotor side clearance: .0013


I evenly coated all the friction surfaces with moly graphite assembly lube and reassembled the pump using blue threadlock on the screws. I got a good chemical clean on all the mating surfaces, installed the oring on the block, and applied an even thin coating of sealant in the fsm dictated pattern on the pump. After installing the pump I removed one screw at a time and re-torqued it with blue threadlock. For the water pump, I hung it and it's gasket on the block with all the srcrews just barely started and then one at a time took each bolt out and put it back in finger tight with blue threadlock--then torqued them all to 8.5 ft lbs in a criss cross pattern, repeating twice.

[sicksubie]

Awesome........

[SVXRide]

Ditto....very, very clean work.
-Bill

[cdigerlando]

Great job completing the long block. I am considering porting the oil input from the pump to the block. I am also replacing the pump rotors, but not the pump. I'm going to pick up my block this morning. I'll be following this thread closely to help me blueprint the assembly.

[TurnInConcepts]

What are you using to clean the mating surfaces? I've always just cleaned them up as good as I can with acetone, but yours are kitchen clean!

[crazyhorse]

I know you know what you're doing, it's obvious from the surgically clean parts.
In the pic of the oil pump open, am I seeing the lube, or scratches on the surface of the rotor?

[longassname]

The majority of stuff is removed in acid wash which for block means hot tanking and smaller parts scrubbing with degreaser and water with brushes. Beyond that steel parts normally find themselves soaking in kerosene as do some aluminum parts that need some touch up. Mating surfaces are cleaned with a fine surfacing pad (kind of a scotch pad on a die grinder). Chemical films are removed with non-chlorinated brake cleaner.

Originally Posted by TurnInConcepts

What are you using to clean the mating surfaces? I've always just cleaned them up as good as I can with acetone, but yours are kitchen clean!

[longassname]

that would be moly graphite assembly lube

Originally Posted by crazyhorse

I know you know what you're doing, it's obvious from the surgically clean parts.
In the pic of the oil pump open, am I seeing the lube, or scratches on the surface of the rotor?

[longassname]

New thermositors were installed. One goes in with thread sealant the other seals with a copper washer which comes with it. The thread sealer you want to use is the one that says "oem specified" on it.


Cam sprockets were torqued in the middle of the factory spec'ed range with blue loctite like pretty much every other bolt on the engine. The factory service tool was used to hold the sprockets while torqueing.



A thanks goes out to Gates for the new timing components provided through our Gates Racing sponsorship. I didn't use the cam seals they provided since I already had them from the overhaul gasket set but I'll provide the numbers anyway for those of you who may want to pick them up from your local auto parts store.

timing belt: t209
tensioner: t41213
cogged: t42119
smooth: t42118
cam seal: ks12711
crank seal: ks13427

[SVXRide]

"Gates Racing Sponsorship"?? Do tell!
-Bill