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  #1  
Old 11-17-2002, 05:27 PM
lee lee is offline
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Question Door lock question(s)

I did a search and couldn't find anything that seems to match.

History/baseline: The security system hasn't worked since I got the car about 10 months ago. Both doors (used to) lock and unlock by driver's side key. Key in passenger side locks/unlocks that door only.

What happened: At work tried to lock driver's side door, wouldn't lock - no big thing it's a secure site. Later drove to a meeting, locked driver's side door, everything now fine. Came out, wouldn't unlock with key. Had to climb in from passenger's side. Wouldn't unlock using interior slide. Got home and messed with it a bit and somehow got it to open. Took door panel off, and removed lock assembly. Checked fuses. Took motor/switch apart, nothing seems wrong. If I connect the motor housing to power, it immediately moves the plunger as if to lock the door.

Right now I have the lock motor plunger disconnected from the lock assembly so I can manually lock/unlock the car. Note: same day - now testing the passenger door to make sure I didn't screw anything up there - the passenger door wouldn't lock. So I did the same disconnect the motor plunger thing. Both doors are now purely manual locks.

I have power to the motor part (obviously since it will try to lock the door). I have power to the latch assembly since an outer wire is at battery level (middle wire being ground). If I manually move the lock lever and check the other wire (which would reverse the lock motor???), do not see any voltage on my cheapo digital VOM.

I'm thinking the problem is in the electrical part of the latch assembly (from the assumption that the other wire of three from the lock assembly should go high). I posted a WTB, no response. I hate to pay the $120 1st Subaru price just to find I missed something stupid.

Ideas???? tia, Lee
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  #2  
Old 11-17-2002, 05:32 PM
Green1995SVX
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Sounds to me like its your central locking unit going south. I think its in the dash somewhere?

Mike
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  #3  
Old 11-17-2002, 05:45 PM
lee lee is offline
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Mike - Thanks for an idea of something to test.

My Alldata CD says it's in the passenger kick panel but mentions nothing about how to test - anybody??
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  #4  
Old 11-17-2002, 06:16 PM
Boone
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Hmm... mebbe this diagram will help.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf door locks.pdf (65.1 KB, 267 views)
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  #5  
Old 11-17-2002, 08:51 PM
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maybe these might help also

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/Beav/5150.gif
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/Beav/5151.gif
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  #6  
Old 11-18-2002, 06:03 AM
lee lee is offline
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thank you both. That is hepful. Especially since Alldata said under the passenger kick panel - took that off - no black boxes there!

do you have anything that says what the voltage and/or resistance should be on the lines from the box?

Do you concur it is likely to be the box? The lock assemblt has zero resistence between two lines no matter what I do with the lock lever. from the diagrams it looks like one side should open and the path closed across ground and the other pin.

While it's a bit of a pain to have manual locks, I won't be going to the dealer (75 miles one way) and leaving it there for repair.
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  #7  
Old 11-18-2002, 05:03 PM
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R/Grn & W/Blk independantly and oppositely alternate from + to - as the desire of lock/unlock changes. W/Grn (changes to W/R @ door latch connector) either switches to ground whenever the lock motor is active or is a continuous ground when the lock is in lock or unlock - your guess here is as good as mine. I'm supposing the condensors are surge absorbers (as technical as I can be ) to protect the control unit. Maybe Trevor or Harvey could offer better insight.

I would suggest checking for proper grounds and power. The tricky part is that it may be an alarm module issue. Maybe someone would be kind enough to let you borrow a spare. (hint, hint...)
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  #8  
Old 11-18-2002, 08:19 PM
SHISVX SHISVX is offline
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well i had the same problem and i can't tell you how many times my doors came apart to fix the problem....i just learned how to carefully lock and unlock her. it was the lock itself. i can't tell you how many times i had to crawl across my passager side seat in the rain just to do some prezel action to sit in the driver seat, now i just went to unlock my car the other day and the lock wouldn't give my key up. i almost pulled the panels off the doors trying to get it out... but i did and haven't had a problem since, just be careful when the lock gets wet, and freezes, that really sucks...if you find out what the problem was, don't forget to share

Kelli
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  #9  
Old 11-19-2002, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by SHISVX
....and freezes, that really sucks...if you find out what the problem was, don't forget to share

Kelli
Thanks again to all.

Kelli - I'm hoping to never see freezing in my car () that means my almost perfect significant other will make me buy all new landscaping plants, and then she'll have me out there digging up dead stuff like the coconut trees and hibiscus bushes.

I will share if I ever bother to find out the answer. But gotta keep in mind this is the first car I ever owned with power locks, so the loss is no big thing (WAY down the priority list).

But seriously, it has to be in a "black box" or the electrical part of the lock assembly. The key turns in the look like it was brand new - I'm just on manual locks now.

Hey, maybe I could get Huck to trade me - I'll make his locks manual - if he'll do the same for my transmission.
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  #10  
Old 11-20-2002, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by lee

Hey, maybe I could get Huck to trade me - I'll make his locks manual - if he'll do the same for my transmission.

Ummm.....................................No
.........................................

PS: My locks are already in the manual mode
thats why I'm following this thread
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Last edited by huck369; 11-20-2002 at 05:34 AM.
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  #11  
Old 11-20-2002, 03:02 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Beav
R/Grn & W/Blk independantly and oppositely alternate from + to - as the desire of lock/unlock changes. W/Grn (changes to W/R @ door latch connector) either switches to ground whenever the lock motor is active or is a continuous ground when the lock is in lock or unlock - your guess here is as good as mine. I'm supposing the condensors are surge absorbers (as technical as I can be ) to protect the control unit. Maybe Trevor or Harvey could offer better insight.

I would suggest checking for proper grounds and power. The tricky part is that it may be an alarm module issue. Maybe someone would be kind enough to let you borrow a spare. (hint, hint...)
The RHD model does not have the alarm module that you have, So can't help there.
Beav, you are not often wrong, but you are right again . The condensors are to suppress the spikes produced by the brushes in the motors.
Lee if the input wires to the control modual have zero resistance between them, It would appear to me that it's died.

Harvey.
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  #12  
Old 11-20-2002, 03:54 PM
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The condensor lesson is an easy one to remember after the first time your finger is touching the jumper wire you're using to activate a relay or such.

What was throwing me a bit was that I'm used to seeing a resistor doing the job. I suppose they employed a cap' because of the polarity switching required?
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  #13  
Old 11-21-2002, 04:11 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Here catch this.

Quote:
Originally posted by Beav
The condensor lesson is an easy one to remember after the first time your finger is touching the jumper wire you're using to activate a relay or such.

What was throwing me a bit was that I'm used to seeing a resistor doing the job. I suppose they employed a cap' because of the polarity switching required?
Yes I remember very clearly learning that lesson as a apprentice. When they throw you a fully charged capacitor to you, to catch.
That dia. Shows the caps as separate to the motors. I don't think it would be that way, as it would be too easy for them to be disconnected to destroy the module, they would probably be in the motor itself.
Had a look in my manual it does not show them at all.

Harvey.
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  #14  
Old 11-21-2002, 07:28 PM
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Some winter days we have entirely to much time on our hands. Best condensor usage was to remove the bottom from an aerosol spray lube can (empty, of course), and run a wire from a condensor up through the valve and flush with the top of the finger valve. Insert one zip-lock sandwich bag half full of water and reattach the bottom of the can. Charge the condensor externally and place can on co-workers work cart...
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  #15  
Old 11-21-2002, 08:23 PM
lee lee is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by huck369

Ummm.....................................No
Huck - my Momma always told me that if I never asked a girl to dance it was a pretty good bet I'd do a lot of sitting on the side. I figured maybe I'd catch you in a weak moment.

Beav - Harvey - Again you guys amaze me.

I would say something nice about huck too, but his head is already probably swollen from the 5-speed compliments in another thread.
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